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The Canberra Times
The Canberra Times
National
Megan Doherty

Canberra ice-cream and dessert icon Mr Frugii dies

John Marshall, aka Mr Frugii, at the Frugii Dessert Laboratory. Picture: Supplied

Canberra ice-cream lovers are mourning the loss of John Marshall, the ice-cream "magician" behind the wildly popular and inventive Mr Frugii creations.

Mr Marshall and his Frugii Dessert Laboratory in Braddon were an icon of the Canberra food scene, and he was able to count international celebrities like chef Nigella Lawson and chocolatier Georg Bernardini among his fans.

Gregarious and adventurous, he was often likened to Willy Wonka for his talent in creating out-there flavours for his ice-cream - flavours like Vegemite for Australia Day, Christmas pudding for the yuletide season and hot-cross buns for Easter.

He started his business from humble beginnings, with a cart at the Southside Farmers Market on the old CIT campus at Woden, where he was always ready with a smile and a free sample.

When he and his wife Ed opened their shopfront in Braddon in January 2015, the little ice-cream hideaway was a major contributor to the renaissance of Lonsdale Street as a foodie haven.

John Marshall, right, with wife Ed and son Leon, then 16, in 2015. Picture: Jamila Toderas

Tributes to Mr Marshall, who ran the Dessert Laboratory with Ed and his son Leon, began to pour in on Sunday.

Braddon developer Nik Bulum, who transformed Lonsdale Street, praised his charisma, wit, generous heart and creativity.

"The world has lost a major talent," Mr Bulum wrote.

Mr Marshall's family also posted an emotional tribute on the Mr Frugii Instagram page on Sunday morning, calling Mr Marshall a great husband and father and declaring they will cherish their memories of his "inventive and high-spirited antics".

"We are overwhelmed with [the] outpouring of love and respect shown to us. Thank you," the family wrote.

"We now hope you can respect our need for privacy and provide us with time and space. We will reach out and talk to you soon."

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