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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
World
Guardian staff and agencies

California surfers delight in ‘really sick’ massive waves bashing coast

A surfer wipes out after a large wave in Ventura, California, on 31 December.
A surfer wipes out after a large wave in Ventura, California, on 31 December. Photograph: Caroline Brehman/EPA

Stormy weather and exceptionally high tides have brought the largest waves in years crashing down on California’s shores, with some reaching heights of 30ft (9 metres) or more.

The conditions triggered flooding and evacuations, and caused injuries and damage in coastal towns. But they have also created a bonanza for surfers, who have thrown themselves headlong into the powerful swells in recent days.

During the past week, surfers have flocked to famous locations like Mavericks near the San Francisco Bay Area, which reportedly saw some of its largest waves in recent history. Others have turned out on beaches across the southern coast, filling social media with footage of riders braving the raging surf.

The intense weather has created excitement for surfers statewide after a relatively mild start to the winter. Some people took advantage of the waves in Seal Beach, about 30 miles south of Los Angeles.

A very large cresting ocean wave.
At Mavericks Beach in Half Moon Bay, surfers faced some of the biggest waves in recent history. Photograph: Jenn Cain/AFP/Getty Images
Two figures bobbin in surf with large white wave behind them.
Surfers at Manhattan Beach on 28 December. Photograph: Richard Vogel/AP

Miles Malohn, a 23-year-old from Irvine who has been surfing for about a decade, said it was one of the largest winter swells he had seen in years.

“It was pretty hectic out there for a few waves,” Malohn said. “You had to be really selective with which ones that you ride so that you don’t end up hurt or wiping out really bad.”

A man in a black wet suit carves white water on a green wave cresting to his left.
A surfer takes off on a wave in southern California. Photograph: Richard Vogel/AP
Lots of whitewater in shadow in the foreground, with a surfer on a wave also in shadow and a sunset over the top of the wave.
A surfer at sunset in El Porto beach. Photograph: Chris Delmas/AFP/Getty Images

More big waves are expected in the coming days, with high surf advisories from the National Weather Service in effect up and down the coast. In the Bay Area and around Los Angeles, the NWS warned of dangerous conditions for beachgoers including waves higher than 20ft and riptides.

Patience was key, according to Alex Buford, 27, who was catching waves just north of Manhattan Beach on the Los Angeles county coast.

“I was waiting for a while because the waves were really sick, and they’re kinda hard to get into even though I have a really big board,” he said. “Just waited for a good one and I got it and it was a long one. Pretty big. It was sick.”

In silhouette in the foreground, a man with poofy hair holds a short board, with whitewater receding in the ocean behind him.
Dangerous surf conditions continue to hit the California coastline, but that hasn’t kept riders away. Photograph: Caroline Brehman/EPA

• This article was amended on 5 January 2024 to change the main image.

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