In a nutshell
A historic spa hotel to rival them all. It took seventeen years and the spending power (£70m) of Ensana, Europe’s largest spa operator, to revive this grade I listed grand dame, but Buxton Crescent is back. It harnesses the Derbyshire town’s underground thermal springs, and guests can take the mineral-rich waters as the Victorians, Georgians and Romans did before them.
Price point: ££
The neighbourhood
There are few vistas more quintessentially English than those enjoyed on the road up to Buxton through the Peak District. The area immediately around the hotel speaks of a glorious past, including Pavilion Gardens, with its Kew-esque botanical conservator, and; chic Cavendish Arcade, filled with boutiques, cafés and bars.
The look
Georgian neoclassical brawn at its finest, this architectural masterpiece is the stuff of Austenian dreams. Its new interiors are eye-catching, if sometimes a little bling, with things hitting a high note in the bar: distressed mirrors, botanical wallpaper and brass fixtures channel the best of gin-palace Victoriana.
The vibe
Historical continuity is a beautiful thing: bathing in the same waters, delivered in the same monumental environs as the Victorians and Georgians once enjoyed adds a dimension to the experience that feels unbeatable. Staff – while incredibly accommodating – felt a little green and somewhat out of step with the casual-not-casual service of England’s most popular hotels.
Bed and bath
Four-poster beds, roll-top baths and on-brand toiletries are all well thought out. The sharp lines of the other fixtures feel a little at odds with the stately chassis of the rooms, but the palate is reassuringly muted, making it a space well tuned to bathrobe lounging while you wait for your next treatment.
Food and drink
The restaurant’s menu is at once exciting and contextually appropriate. You’ll find imaginative takes on classic British dishes that use local and seasonal ingredients (don’t miss the oxtail roulade), while it looks great on the plate too. If you fancy eating out one evening, options span hearty Greek and Italian to old-world fine dining within a few minutes’ walk.
Pools, spas and public areas
The hotel’s raison d’etre doesn’t disappoint. Looks-wise, the spa area marries its storied past (stained glass and cast iron) with clean lines and soothing hues. Start in the original thermal pool (refilled daily), which is naturally heated to 27.5C. After, move onto the celestially lit relaxation pool, finishing with a little hydrotherapy in the outdoor pool upstairs. The latter is where Insta-braggers should take photos.
Elsewhere, there’s a salt cave for harmonising one’s respiratory system, a trio of saunas (infrared, bio-thermal and Finnish) and a pair of steam rooms (regular and aromatherapy). Treatments are taken just as seriously, with a vast array of options ranging from a therapeutic hot mud bath – for those sore joints – to the Tranquillity Pro-Sleep. Most memorable, though, is the individual Buxton CO2 mineral bath experience – high blood pressure be gone!
Nuts and bolts
Room count: 81 rooms and suites
Freebies: Tea and coffee facilities and bottled water
In the bathroom: Toiletries by Penhaligons
Wifi: Free
Minibar prices: Anything can be ordered via room service and placed into the rooms/fridges upon request
Disability access: There are two accessible bedrooms
Pet policy: Charge of £20 per dog per night, with a maximum of one dog in a room. This includes a complimentary dog bed
Bottom line
Best thing: The spa
Worst thing: One or two inexperienced staff (though never not nice)
Perfect for: A romantic spa weekend for fans of old-world charm
Instagram from: The outdoor rooftop pool
Room rate: Doubles from £125 per night B&B
