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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle
KANOKPORN CHANASONGKRAM

Building up the brand

Founded by an American watchmaking pioneer, once under German ownership, and now a member of a Swiss luxury goods company, IWC Schaffhausen over 150 years has a fascinating history whose next chapter is under directions set by Christoph Grainger-Herr -- the new CEO since April this year.

Christoph Grainger-Herr, IWC's new CEO.

"It is a fantastic time to be at the helm of IWC as the brand reaches its 150th-year milestone. We have the potential to be one of the world's leading watch brands and my vision is to elevate IWC into the top five," said the charismatic Grainger-Herr, who joined the Swiss maison in 2006.

Before taking the CEO seat, the German worked in various departments including marketing and strategic planning, not to mention being the brand's executive architect, who designed the IWC museum and the new manufacturing site constructed to increase production capacity.

"IWC has ambitious plans and our new building is very much a part of that, especially for the production of in-house movements," he said. "I designed that building and it feels great to see the design concept come to life. It is spine-tingling when I go there and see people moving and working in such a big site. Our new building will clearly show who we are and what we are about as a brand. It will set the tone for IWC's next 100 years of watchmaking in Schaffhausen."

The building's design concept was based on a modernist exposition pavilion. Grainger-Herr was inspired by iconic international expos such as the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, where the pavilions showcased the very best in art, technology and the industry of each nation.

"Likewise, our new manufacturing space embodies art and technology in IWC watchmaking. More than a sustainable, functional working factory powered by solar energy and the Rhine, I want that space to be a home for the brand," he said.

Hydropower from the Rhine, machine technology and Swiss craftsmanship were combined by American founder Florentine Ariosto Jones in producing high-quality pocket watches at Schaffhausen in northern Switzerland.

In 1868, the 27-year-old Jones journeyed from Boston to set up the watchmaking company and employed modern production methods when in those days timepieces were mostly made individually by home-based labourers.

His industrial approach was also apparent in the Jones calibres, whose design concept featuring three-quarter plates enabled simpler and more cost-effective production of the small components.

"Our founder's entrepreneurial spirit and his untiring quest for engineering excellence have left a lasting impression on IWC. To this day, our watches combine precision engineering with a design that is as unusual as it is timeless," he said.

IWC engineers also develop technical solutions in-house such as the oiling of watch movements by machines, which can perform that task more precisely than humans.

"Certain things, however, can be done better by humans, such as regulating the watch movements, which is a job for master watchmakers. We have the best fusion of craftsmanship and technology, with the craftsmen and machines doing what they do best together in the spirit of IWC," he said.

Iconic timepieces include the Pallweber pocket watch, Portugieser and Da Vinci that have been reinterpreted for a special Jubilee collection unveiled this month (see box below).

Throughout 2018, more limited editions will be introduced to mark IWC's 150th anniversary.

"The IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition '150 Years' is one of my favourites from the Jubilee collection," he said. "Back in 1884, the Pallweber pocket watch was one of IWC's first-ever creations to feature jumping numerals in a revolutionary digital display. Now as a wristwatch, having such a complex mechanism in a classic and understated presentation -- that is quite IWC."

Historically, the first pocket watches made by IWC were shipped to the US, which today is the largest luxury market and naturally a strategic focus for the high-flying CEO.

"Unlike other regions, the US market is unique and therefore we cannot apply European and Asian luxury codes to a large part of the country. We have seen, on a small scale, fantastic retail performance. The question is how to scale that up for a long-term sustainable development of the US market," he said.

IWC also sees growth potential in China, where its product range, from Aquatimer and Ingenieur to Pilot and Portofino, will meet the demands of clients seeking mechanical watches with diverse designs and complications.

"Founded as the International Watch Company, we have always strived, strategically, to not focus on only one region in order to grow evenly across all markets around the world," he said. "At the end of the day, timeless designs, functionality and IWC's unique storytelling make our watches relevant to a much wider market."

Savonnette pocket watch Calibre Jones, Pattern R (1874). felixcam
Savonnette pocket watch Pallweber (1886). felixcam
Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon (Prototype 1998). IWC Schaffhausen
Vintage Portugieser wristwatch (1954). felixcam
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