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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tony Naylor

Budget eats Harrogate: haute or not of note?

Fodder food store on the edge of Harrogate
Fodder food store on the edge of Harrogate - worth a visit? Photograph: Gary Calton for the Observer

Another month, another budget eats 10. This time out, the Guardian Travel series - a national hunt for the best places to eat for under £10-a-head - is in Harrogate, Yorkshire, home to Bettys Tea Rooms (which, perhaps taking my life in my hands, I didn't include) and, thankfully, much more besides.

On the Bettys front, it is a much-loved institution, and like many iconic venues, it trades - as far as I am concerned - on former glories, on a simulacrum of inter-war tea room gentility, rather than actual quality food. It is not bad exactly, but historically I have eaten steadfastly OK food there at prices (that'll be £6.50 to £7.95 for an open sandwich, please) which made my eyes water. And that is after queuing as well. It doesn't warrant the hassle or expenditure. This, I realise, will be heresy to many. Judging by the packed tables, I am in a minority of one. But there you go.

Anyway, onwards. One interesting micro-scene within Harrogate is that strata of reasonably-to-actually-quite good restaurants - some of them Michelin and Good Food Guide listed, no less - which nonetheless have to battle hard for lunchtime trade, leading to some great bargains for the astute visitor. Sasso and Quantro both made my 10, but, for me, it was the slightly more hidden away Mirabelle which was most impressive.

Elsewhere, Weeton's delivered on its promise, after a fashion; Bean & Bud was fantastic; Graveley's was solid; the Blue Nile an interesting Egyptian hidden gem; Charley's a reminder of why everyone used to get so excited about cupcakes; and Fat Badger, despite its ludicrous design affectations, turned out to be a decent all-day cheap eats option.

The only clanger I dropped was getting a takeaway from Sukhothai, the Leeds' branch of which has a very good reputation. My massaman curry was swimming in oil and delivered very little in flavour. Was this a one-off? Do you rate it? Or, when it comes to affordable east Asian food, would you point people to the lunch deal at Orchid? It looks good, but, sadly, I didn't have time to squeeze it in.

Perhaps you're a fan of food at the Old Bell Tavern, Caffe Rosso, Cattlemen's Association, Indulge, lunch at Bed or Bib & Tucker? If so, now's the time to have your say and make their case. And while we're in the area, feel free to give us a steer outside the town centre. Is Dougie's worth a drive out, does Cafe Masala serve Harrogate's best curry, would you divert to Fodder on your way in or out of town?

What's haute in Harrogate and what's not?

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