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There’s never a bad time to go to Budapest, but at this time of year there’s an obvious seasonal draw: two Advent markets. They’re fun, crowded and way nicer than the one in Trafalgar Square. There are few classier places to buy your nativity scenes than in front of St Stephen’s Basilica.
But the great thing is getting there by train. You can travel via Brussels, Frankfurt and either Munich or Vienna. It’s a long journey, either all day or overnight (if you can, get the ŐBB Nightjet, run by Austria’s railway service), but it’s an adventure; especially if, like me, you contrive to get off a stop early.
Walking around Budapest, you’re struck by how miraculously preserved it is (or rather, miraculously restored), and by the extraordinary variety of architectural styles, often in one street. The dominant is probably art nouveau with an Austro-Hungarian spin. Look above ground level and you see any number of engaging reliefs with folk motifs and allegorical scenes. There was a building boom during the Dual Monarchy, from 1867 to 1918, and much of it has, thank goodness, survived. The Corinthia Hotel, where I stayed (excellent breakfast), is a century old, proof of the resilience of these buildings.
There are obvious must-sees. Such as the parliament where soldiers with swords guard the crown of St Stephen, and the atmosphere of a century ago is captured by numbered cigar rests in the corridors with benches underneath; perfect for plotters. Then there’s the Great Synagogue — Budapest has a thriving Jewish community — with its Moorish-looking towers. Across the Danube, there’s Castle Hill, with a spectacular view of the city from the Fisherman’s Bastion, and the Royal Palace, where the Hungarian National Gallery has stunning late medieval pieces.
The Museum of Fine Arts on the other side of town is home to an unmissable collection of Old Masters. Up the road, there’s Széchenyi Thermal Baths, famous for the spectacle of old men playing chess in the steaming water.
Budapest has any number of thermal baths — no wonder the pensioners look so vigorous. Arguably the most beautiful is the art deco Gellért Baths, with their spectacular entrance and tiled pools where you can sit in warm water under fountains, inside or out. In the evenings the 19th century St Stephen’s Basilica glows as the Advent market outside rests under lit arches. Like the bigger version in Vörösmarty Terrace, it’s packed. Both offer ceramics, woodwork, chocolate: the works.
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You can eat really well in the markets, but the restaurant scene is flourishing. Modern Hungarian cooking has all the delicious game/dumpling/mushroom/sour cream/pancake elements, with lighter, contemporary aspects. Try Börze, Hilda or Zeller near the basilica. And if you haven’t tried modern Hungarian wine, it’s terrific. I’m a convert.
Details: Budapest
Trainline.com fares from £107 one way. Costs for a private sleeper cabin on the Nightjet vary; book well in advance (nightjet.com). Rooms at the Corinthia (corinthia.com) from £130.
