Bringing a forgotten community back to life

Part of the community was ravaged by fire almost 50 years ago. However, many old houses, especially those close to the Chao Phraya river and the connecting Bang Toey canal, have survived until today. These wooden homes, together with the friendliness of the local people and the natural surroundings, make up the old-world charm of the Sam Khok Waterfront Market.

Pathum Thani's Sam Khok district recently launched a new attraction: the Sam Khok Waterfront Market. Located in Bang Toey, a community on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river, the retro-style weekend market offers not only shopping opportunities but also a chance to learn about the area's history and the various cultures and traditional lifestyle of the local people.

The market project brings this old riverside community a new lease of life. To this elderly couple, for example, weekends are no longer boring.

Since the Ayutthaya Period, Sam Khok has been home to large communities of Mon migrants and a production hub of bricks, jars and a variety of other earthenware. No wonder it is usually depicted in maps of the Chao Phraya river created by Western traders and members of religious and diplomatic groups (the name was spelled in a variety of ways, including Sam Koc).

Mon people fled wars in their homeland in what is now the southern part of Myanmar to settle in Sam Khok during various times. The major influxes took place during the reigns of King Narai of Ayutthaya, King Taksin of Thon Buri and King Rama II of the current Rattanakosin Period. The Chinese later joined in, as well as Muslims from Pattani in the South. Generations passed and descendants of those settlers are officially regarded as Thais.

Bang Toey, which sits at the point where its namesake canal connects with the Chao Phraya river, was the area's major trading centre. It even boasts a cinema, the first in Pathum Thani province. More than that, Bang Toey was the site of the Sam Khok district office, from the times of King Rama V to 1983 when it was moved to a nearby location closer to the main road.

It was the advent of roadways that brought the decline of Bang Toey whose business relied on river transportation that became outdated. A big fire in the late 60s was also a major blow to the community.

Over the past few decades, the once busy riverside community has been quiet, so much so some of its residents decided they must do something. They formed a committee, which agreed that opening a weekend market would be a good way to make Bang Toey lively again. The plan was proposed to concerned government agencies, and it took a while before a budget was approved for renovation work and basic facilities for the province's new attraction. Pathum Thani Cultural Office worked closely with the local committee to make the Sam Khok Waterfront Market project happen.

"We then invited people in the area to come and sell home-made goodies, handicrafts and farm produce at the new market, which was launched on April 27," said Puteprat Somhar, a core member of the committee. "Our market opens from Friday to Sunday, from 9am to 4pm."

However, according to Puteprat, the committee does not want the visitors to just come and shop.

"We want them to know more about our old community, which is made up of people from different ethnic backgrounds and religious beliefs. We have a museum and several other places that they can visit and learn about our past and our pride," he added.

Sam Khok Waterfront Market sits on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river, about 5km or so north of Pathum Thani downtown.

There are many ways to get to the market from Bangkok, the simplest route, although not the shortest, is to take the Udon Ratthaya Expressway to its northern end, then go westward on Highway 9. Soon after you get to the other side of the Chao Phraya river, you will find an intersection where Road 3111 crosses the highway. Turn left, and in a couple of minutes, you will see the access road to the riverside weekend market on the left-hand side.

For more information, call 062-107-0283.

Part of the community was ravaged by fire almost 50 years ago. However, many old houses, especially those close to the Chao Phraya river and the connecting Bang Toey canal, have survived until today. These wooden homes, together with the friendliness of the local people and the natural surroundings, make up the old-world charm of the Sam Khok Waterfront Market.

Creative murals by students from Kasetsart University's Faculty of Architecture are hidden at a number of locations. Searching for them and taking photos makes visiting the new weekend market even more fun.

This waterside petrol station at the mouth of Bang Toey canal is one of a few on this section of the Chao Phraya river. Cargo barges travelling between Nonthaburi, Pathum Thani and Ayutthaya further upstream drop by here for fuel. Despite the laid-back atmosphere — the river view and the relaxing breeze — caution must always be exercised. Lighting your cigarette or using your mobile phone while at the station can result in disaster.

It's a pity the community does not have many photographs that keep records of yesteryear. This decades-old picture hung on the wall of a local restaurant famous for duck rice and noodles, reveals the excitement of family members over their bicycle, a novelty back in the days when boats were the area's main mode of transportation. The lifestyle of the local people in the past can also be seen from various features of their homes. For example, the wooden platform shown in the smaller photo allowed residents of the house easy access to canal water. These days although people rely more on tap water, the platform remains there. It is even fitted with a faucet.

It's a pity the community does not have many photographs that keep records of yesteryear. This decades-old picture hung on the wall of a local restaurant famous for duck rice and noodles, reveals the excitement of family members over their bicycle, a novelty back in the days when boats were the area's main mode of transportation. The lifestyle of the local people in the past can also be seen from various features of their homes. For example, the wooden platform shown in the smaller photo allowed residents of the house easy access to canal water. These days although people rely more on tap water, the platform remains there. It is even fitted with a faucet.

Not much is left of the Si Watthana Theatre which offers proof of the big role Sam Khok district, Bang Toey in particular, played in these parts during its glory days. The theatre also played host to concerts by the country's then-top artists such as the legendary Surachai Sombatcharoen. Seen in the picture, from left, are Ladda Phanthong, daughter of the cinema owner, and Puteprat Somhar, the man behind the Sam Khok Waterfront Market project.

Not much is left of the Si Watthana Theatre which offers proof of the big role Sam Khok district, Bang Toey in particular, played in these parts during its glory days. The theatre also played host to concerts by the country's then-top artists such as the legendary Surachai Sombatcharoen. Seen in the picture, from left, are Ladda Phanthong, daughter of the cinema owner, and Puteprat Somhar, the man behind the Sam Khok Waterfront Market project.

If there is one thing about Sam Khok Waterfront Market that many visitors may not be happy with, it's the place's polycarbonate roofing. Although the translucent roofs help protect both the vendors and tourists from rain and lessen the harshness of the sun, they give the light passing through a green tint which is evident in virtually every photo taken under them. The lady here is explaining about the Mon-style curry she made with taro stems. Only the colour of the spicy fare and her broad smile were not ruined by the eerie ambient light.

Visitors to the new market should not miss the old Sam Khok district office, which has been gracefully restored and converted into a local museum. In front of it is the statue of Sunthorn Phu, one of the most respected poets of the early Rattanakosin Period. He mentioned Sam Khok in some of his works, including the famous Nirat Phu Khao Thong. Every day the market is open there are cultural performances and demonstrations, which range from handicraft making to cooking traditional dishes and much more. Photos: Pipat Noithai

Visitors to the new market should not miss the old Sam Khok district office, which has been gracefully restored and converted into a local museum. In front of it is the statue of Sunthorn Phu, one of the most respected poets of the early Rattanakosin Period. He mentioned Sam Khok in some of his works, including the famous Nirat Phu Khao Thong. Every day the market is open there are cultural performances and demonstrations, which range from handicraft making to cooking traditional dishes and much more. Photos: Pipat Noithai