May 23--I know: You love the burger at Au Cheval. You love it as much as you love summer, the Lower Wacker scenes in "Dark Knight" and hating on people who put ketchup on hot dogs. It is a very good burger; nobody here is disputing that, so please direct hate mail elsewhere. But it's nice to remember that there are other, very good burgers out there -- useful for when you're not in the West Loop or you don't have three hours to wait for a table.
The double cheeseburger ($9) at Johnny's Grill is one of those burgers. "I'd eat it every day," is how our waitress described it, and that's pretty much all you need to know. It's a feat to put out a thin burger that's still pink and juicy in the middle, and the cooks here nailed it -- two beautifully griddled patties, covered in melted sharp cheddar on a soft bun that soaks up the grease. A thick layer of mustard-mayo mixture makes every bite creamy, and pickles on top nail the fast-food nostalgia. You can add an egg for $1.50, but don't bother; this burger is perfect without.
2545 N. Kedzie Blvd., 773-278-2215, www.thejohnnysgrill.com
mconrad@tribpub.com
Twitter @marissa_conrad
