Oct. 12--The basement bar below River North's Pops for Champagne is one of those rare hideaways where one can escape the street-level hubbub and then almost immediately feel at home. The comfy, Midwestern living room vibe also imbues the lengthy cocktail list -- the Bring Out Your Dead featuring Death's Door Gin; the Girl Scout on Valentine's Day, sporting green Chartreuse -- with a more playful than pretentious character, as if an eccentric uncle started whipping up cocktails in his den with astounding finesse.
In that vein, Watershed's You Never Know ($11) is as beguiling as the name. The drink offers a cozy embrace of autumn apple in its foundation of Leopold Bros. New York Apple Whiskey, and further intrigues with a buzz of Averna, a pucker of lemon and a tumble of Angostura and peach bitters served in a generous glass. Also true to title is the drink's curious staying power, as elements sweet, bitter, fruity and herbal combine in such a way that even with the accompaniment of a late-night bar snack (hey there, cheese curds and truffle fries), the imprint of this eclectic libation lingers.
601 N. State St., 312-266-4932, www.watershedbar.com.
Leah Pickett is a freelance writer.
