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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Richard Nelsson

Boots and bathers: the rise of UK cross-country swimming and where to do it

Cross-country swimmers on the Pembroke coast.
Cross-country swimmers on the Pembroke coast. Photograph: Swim Wild Wales

Cross-country swimming – the combination of hiking and open-water swimming – enables you to create routes that traverse land and water, whether it be mountains, lakes or a stretch of coastline. The concept is that when your walk comes to a body of water, you pack your kit into a waterproof inflatable bag that can be towed, swim to the next destination, exit, and continue your journey. A multi-swim walk can open up new perspectives on the landscape, even in familiar areas.

Standard tow floats are fine for shorter trips. However, for full or multi-day excursions, something like the RuckRaft, which is big enough to transport a rucksack full of camping gear across open water is recommended.

It can be exciting plotting your own route but, as with any outdoor pursuit, open-water swimming comes with an element of risk. In unfamiliar waters it is essential to consider factors such as currents and tides, water quality, plus safe (and legal) entry and exit points. To begin with, it is worth signing up with a qualified swim guide – over the past year, a number have started running cross-country swimming trips and breaks around the UK.

Devon

Swimmer jumps in at South Hams, Devon
In at the deep end on the swim from Hope Cove to Bantham on the south Devon coast. Photograph: Richard Nelsson/The Guardian

Based at a woodland camp on the edge of Dartmoor, the AboveBelow Devon retreat is the original cross-country swimming break. From the (optional) early morning dip in a local river, routes follow south Devon’s coastline, walking and swimming from Hope Cove to Bantham, sometimes with a bit of scrambling, a swoosh (tidal assisted), or a swim around Burgh island. With the emphasis on enjoyment, a final estuary excursion ends up with a swim to a pub for lunch.

RuckRafts are provided and local guide Nigel Jenkins adapts routes according to weather and sea conditions.
AboveBelow Devon, from £334 for the weekend

Pembroke and south Wales

Whitesands bay, Pembrokeshire.
Whitesands Bay, Pembrokeshire. Photograph: CW Images/Alamy

The raw beauty of the Pembrokeshire Coast national park is arguably best appreciated from both water and land. Swim Wild Wales runs weekend breaks that involve several swims – with the chance of spotting dogfish, seals or dolphins – linked by walks along a stunning section of the coastal path. Swims are planned according to water and weather conditions, as well as the goals of the group, which also offers swim adventures at locations such as Barry, Sully and Penarth, all near Cardiff.
Swim Wild Wales, £330 for weekend

Lake District

Cross-country swimmers on Crummock Water
The view from Crummock Water to Grasmoor, which Guardian country diarist Harry Griffin likened to the north wall of the Eiger. Photograph: Richard Nelsson/The Guardian

With 16 lakes, hundreds of tarns and numerous mountains, the Lake District is the perfect landscape to create your own unique route. On a sunny August weekend I did a self-supporting western lakes swim/walk taking in Crummock Water and Buttermere, a climb up Haystacks, a wild camp and eventually a swim across Derwentwater. Lauren Munro-Bennett from LMB Coaching can help you plan such a route and accompany you.

She also runs a less intense southern lakes trip that crosses Windermere, followed by a walk to Loughrigg tarn and further swims the next day. For a three-day, full immersion into the world of cross-country swimming, AboveBelow runs weekend retreats based at a lodge near Ullswater. This includes guided swims across and along the lake, combined with forays into the surrounding fells.

In the Lake District it is important to be aware of biosecurity, and the cross contamination of invasive species from one lake to another. In some areas all kit should be rinsed before using again.
AboveBelow offers weekends from £338

North Wales

Cross-country swimmers at Llyn Padarn
Cross-country swimmers at Llyn Padarn. The 1.5km swim is followed by a walk along forest tracks. Photograph: Adam Kendrick

The mountains and lakes of north Wales offer numerous cross-country swim possibilities, and they don’t all have to involve strenuous climbing. Swim routes combined with less intense walks can be created around the stunning two-mile-long Llyn Padarn.

A three-swim, 10km route, run by Altitude Snowdonia, is a good introduction to everything involved on a land-and-water adventure. Starting at Llyn Geirionydd, near Llanrwst, a 1.5km swim down the length of lake is followed by a walk along forest tracks, an optional swim in a small lake, before joining the Snowdonia Slate Trail. This brings you to the village of Capel Curig and a final big swim in Llynnau Mymbyr.

For those after even more adventure, its scramble and swim route includes the famous Bristly ridge grade 1 climb on Tryfan, followed by swims across mountain lakes.
Altitude Snowdonia full day £95

Cornwall

Cross-country swimming in Cornwall
A circular swim explores the beautiful Cornish coast. Photograph: James Bowden

Starting at Maenporth, three miles south-west of Falmouth, this three-swim circular route explores the beautiful south Cornish coast with deviations inland to sub-tropical gardens and even a pirates’ graveyard. Led by a local guide, Matt Lowe, there is a sea swim going past caves and coves, a trip up the Helford river towards Daphne du Maurier’s famous Frenchman’s Creek, and a “swoosh” swim down Porthnavas Creek to finish at a pub. With the swims there are plenty of exit points if you feel like getting out and walking.
Matt Lowe, hello@agoodadventure.co, full day £100

Isle of Lewis and Isle of Harris

Bosta Beach departure on cross-country swimming adventure
Preparing for launch at Bosta beach, in the Outer Hebrides. Photograph: Immerse Hebrides

From white sandy beaches to rugged areas of coastline, mountains, moor and inland lochs, the islands of the Outer Hebrides are an almost near-perfect venue for multi-swim hikes. Based in Stornoway, on the Isle of Lewis and Isle of Harris, Immerse Hebrides runs everything from swim and trek half-days, to more adventurous swims out to small islands. A full day’s exploration includes swimming to an island across a sea loch, hiking, more loch swims, including one to a famous beach (routes can vary depending on sea conditions).
Immerse Hebrides, full day, £325; half-day, £175 (for groups of up to four people)

Isles of Scilly

Swimming in the Isles of Scilly
The Isles of Scilly offers untold possibilities for swim and hike routes. Photograph: The Wild and Scilly Mermaids

The sun bleached sands and turquoise seas of the Isles of Scilly, off Cornwall, have long been a popular destination for outdoor swimmers, but the archipelago of relatively close islands also offers untold possibilities for swim and hike routes. The waters are cold though (wetsuits recommended) and there are strong currents so it is advisable to enlist some local knowledge. As well as introductory sea swim sessions, the Wild and Scilly Mermaids offer a swim/hike route that involves 2.5km of swimming with coast path walking, including a picnic lunch and hot drinks (towed on the route).
Wild and Scilly Mermaids, £60 for swim hike adventure, bespoke inter-island routes on request

River Thames

River Thames at Shiplake Lock
The Thames swim starts at the pontoon at Shiplake lock. Photograph: John Weller

Multi-swim routes aren’t all about steep ascents and freezing lochs. The River Thames offers scores of potential trips, combining walks through ancient villages with pleasant river swimming. One such route starts at Shiplake lock, a 30-minute walk along the Thames path from Shiplake train station in Oxfordshire. Heading off from the pontoon, you glide past eyots (river islands) and an eclectic mix of houses – from the Tudorbethan to an elegant Grand Designs house. There are plenty of exit points where you can rejoin the river path and continue the journey by walking into Henley-on-Thames. After something to eat in town, the water section of the route can continue towards Remenham or past Temple Island, the starting point of the Henley Royal Regatta course. Mike Whitworth, an open water coach based in Henley-on-Thames, can guide you on the route or help create your own.
Swim to Live, contact to discuss

Jurassic coast

Open water swimming at Durdle Door, UK
Durdle Door takes on a different perspective when you are swimming through it. Photograph: SwimTrek

Dorset’s Jurassic coast attracts thousands of visitors each year, but not many get to truly appreciate the cliffs, coves and beaches from both above and in the sea. Jurassic Coast Swimming runs adventure day swims that can take in areas such as Dancing Ledge, Durdle Door or Beer and Branscombe. Walks between swims may involve scrambling, ledge jumping, as well as the possibility of spotting bats and seals. Lunch and hot drinks as well as clothes are towed. It also runs swim camps as well as a retreat on Brownsea Island that includes a sauna.
Jurassic Coast Swimming, from £90 a day

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