There is something humbling about the Białowieża forest in north-eastern Poland. The vastness of this primeval woodland, the endless vista of trees, and some very special birds, all contribute to a truly memorable experience.
Our guide was my old friend Marek Borkowski, but even with his expertise the birds did not give themselves up easily. He did lead us to a Tengmalm’s owl, which peered curiously at us from its nest hole before retreating out of sight. And on a day trip into Belarus we had great views of a magnificent great grey owl, also on its nest.
One by one, we caught up with most of Poland’s 10 species of woodpecker, but the one I really wanted to see – the Eurasian three-toed – still eluded us. Time and again, we searched the canopy; occasionally we played its distinctively slow drumming sound; but still no luck.
Until, on our last morning, Marek finally pinned down this striking bird, fixed to a tree trunk and drumming away to its – and my – heart’s content. The distinctive grey-black plumage, with a broad, white streak running down its back, marked it out from the familiar “spotted” woodpeckers. As I left, I could still hear its echoing call, taking us back to a time when most of Europe was covered in trees.
Marek Borkowski runs bird and wildlife tours throughout the winter and spring: http://www.wildlife.pl/
