It all begins with bath time. As you up your mileage, you’ll soon find road grime getting gunked into moving parts, where it combines with chain oil to create an evil, component-destroying paste. This is especially true of hard-working commuters like the Boardman Hybrid Pro. So give your bike a regular rinsing, sponging down the frame and wheels, then get to work with a degreaser-dipped rag and toothbrush on the rear cassette. Rubber gloves recommended.
Next, de-gunk your chain - a handheld chain bath can work wonders in minutes. Once your chain’s sparkling and dry, re-lube it, then wipe off the excess. If you only clean but don’t lubricate, you’ll end up wearing out bits of your bike - and it’ll squeak like a tortured mouse. So splash out on some bike-specific lubricant and apply it sparingly wherever metal meets metal: cables, chain and bearing systems. Never lubricate brakes or braking surfaces, for obvious reasons.
There’s no point bathing and lubing your beloved ride only to store it in the pouring rain. It’s best to keep your bike somewhere cosy and dry, safe from the British weather, even if that means mounting it on the hallway wall or pulleying it up above the stairs. Cunning yet affordable storage options abound. Storing bikes outdoors is a cardinal sin. If you don’t already own one, get a track pump with a pressure gauge and make it a weekly job to check your tyres are at the right pressure – you’ll get fewer punctures and riding fast feels easier to boot.
It’s all very well going fast, but if you can’t stop you’re in trouble. Disc brakes can offer astonishing stopping power in even the filthiest conditions, which is why they’re the default option on serious off-road bikes like the Boardman Mountain Bike Comp. But they’ll only perform if you look after them. There are dozens of types of disc brakes on the market, each with their own nuanced set up and maintenance procedures. One thing they all have in common is a need to be kept clean. Even when they look so, they often retain dirt compressed into the braking surfaces. After every ride, give callipers and rotors a spray with a dedicated disc brake cleaner, allow a few minutes to dissolve contaminants, then spray again to rinse. Avoid the temptation to wipe the rotors with a rag afterwards – you’ll only be undoing to the solvent’s good work.
Every now and then, check for wobbly bearing play in your headset, hubs and cranks. Rock the bike back and forth while squeezing your front brake to check the headset – looseness or knocking sounds are a warning something’s not right. For wheel and crank bearings, hold the bike firmly and try to pull the wheel or crank side to side. Any lateral wiggling means it needs attention.
Keeping your gears shifting smoothly is an art form, but an important one to master, especially if you’ve upgraded to a serious performance bike like the Boardman Road Pro Carbon. Ask your local bike mechanic, watch online tutorials and then practise at home. But not the day before a big ride; give it at least a week so you’ve time to seek professional help if things go pear shaped. Number one tip – one that’s so often ignored it’s like a trade secret – invest in a work stand. It’ll make gear adjustment (and just about every other job) so much easier. Spend a little now to save years of frustration.
Along with love, baths and shelter, bikes need to be listened to. A well-tuned bike should run almost silently, bar the companionable whirr of the rear cassette. If your bike’s clanking or grinding, it’s trying to tell you something. Don’t ignore it – if you can’t diagnose the problem at home, rattle your way to the nearest bike doctor.
Regular servicing is key to any successful bike-fail-prevention strategy. For occasional riders, once yearly should suffice. If you’re hammering out the miles week after week, then a professional once-over every six months is a good idea. Catch problems early on, and you’ll save money and time. And your bike will love you forever.
Saddlebag kit list: a checklist of essentials for on-the-go repairs
- Spare inner tube – the right size for your bike
- Pump – frame-mounted or pocket-sized
- Puncture kit – including tyre patches & vulcanising solution
- Multitool – with allen keys, chain tool and screwdrivers
- Tyre levers – for getting the tyres on and off
- Zip ties – great for quick mends on the road
- Wet wipes – a mini-pack to degrease your hands
- Cash – for emergencies or mid-ride espresso
- Mobile phone – so you can Instagram the view
Flat mates: three easy tips for avoiding punctures
- Replace your tyres if they’re wearing thin or the side walls are perished and cracking. And when you do, treat yourself to a set of puncture resistant tyres; they’re worth every penny.
- Under-inflated tyres are more susceptible to punctures, so get a track pump with a pressure gauge on it and keep your tyres at the recommended pressure – it should be marked on the tyre sidewall.
- Wherever possible, don’t ride too close to the kerb - that’s where your tyres are most likely to meet broken glass and other nasties.