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Bethlehem's Ghostly Christmas: War Brings Darkness Instead of Joy

People visit the Grotto under the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem i

In a year that has been filled with darkness, the absence of festive lights and Christmas cheer in Bethlehem was a stark reminder of the ongoing Israel-Hamas war. Manger Square, typically bustling with foreign tourists and lively youth marching bands, resembled a ghost town on Christmas Eve.

The somber atmosphere was shared by Brother John Vinh, a Franciscan monk from Vietnam, who has been living in Jerusalem for six years. As he gazed at a nativity scene in Manger Square, he couldn't help but feel the weight of the thousands of children who have lost their lives in the conflict in Gaza. A baby Jesus wrapped in a white shroud stood as a poignant symbol of their tragic fate.

The scene was no longer adorned with joyful lights and bursts of color. Instead, it was surrounded by barbed wire, reflecting the grim reality of the situation. The cold rain added to the overall melancholic mood, casting a shadow over the usually vibrant Christmas season.

Palestinian scouts hold signs in solidarity with Palestinians in the Gaza Strip calling to end the Israel-Hamas war, near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
People visit the Grotto under the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Leo Correa)
Catholic clergy walk in procession next to the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Leo Correa)
People hold Santa Claus balloons on Christmas Eve, near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Leo Correa)
People hold a giant Palestinian flag in Manger Square, near the Nativity Church, which is traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
People hold a giant Palestinian flag in Manger Square, near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Leo Correa)
A nativity scene decorated to honor the victims in Gaza is displayed in Manger Square, near the Nativity Church, which is traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
People visit the Grotto under the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)
A priest walks by the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)

The cancellation of Christmas festivities dealt a severe blow to Bethlehem's economy, which heavily relies on tourism. With major airlines canceling flights to Israel and few foreigners venturing into the region, more than 70 hotels in Bethlehem were forced to close their doors, leaving a large number of people unemployed.

Gift shops, usually bustling with activity, were slow to open on Christmas Eve. The rain had dampened the already subdued spirit, and there were few visitors to be found. The owners of Afteem Restaurant, a popular family-owned falafel spot near Manger Square, made the difficult decision not to put up a Christmas tree or celebrate as they usually would. They recognized that it seemed unjustifiable to revel in merriment while others suffered in Gaza.

Even the local market wasn't spared from the subdued atmosphere. A few teenagers tried to sell small inflatable Santas, but no one seemed interested in buying. Instead of their usual march through the streets, young scouts stood silently with flags, and a group of students solemnly unfurled a massive Palestinian flag.

Inside the Church of the Nativity, the traditional Christmas musical repertoire was altered this year. Joyful holiday songs were replaced with more solemn hymns in minor keys, reflecting the sadness, grief, and anger felt by the people of Bethlehem at the international community's response to the situation.

Amidst this gloom, there were still a few brave souls like Dr. Joseph Mugasa. Leading a tour group from Tanzania, Dr. Mugasa and his companions were determined to visit the region despite the ongoing conflict. With a heavy heart, he acknowledged the uniqueness of this Christmas, emphasizing that celebrations should not overshadow the suffering of others. The group prayed for peace in the midst of the despair.

The toll of the Israel-Hamas war has been devastating. More than 20,000 Palestinians have lost their lives, and an estimated 85% of Gaza's population has been displaced. The conflict has also fueled violence in the West Bank, resulting in the deaths of over 300 Palestinians.

Access to Bethlehem and other Palestinian towns in the West Bank has become increasingly difficult due to military checkpoints, causing widespread disruption to daily life. Tens of thousands of Palestinians have been unable to work in Israel due to restrictions, further exacerbating the economic hardships faced by the community.

Even in Syria, where a civil war has ravaged the country for years, Christians tried to find joy amidst strife. The Rev. Elias Zahlawi, a priest in Yabroud, expressed his disappointment with the world's lack of love and lamented the silence of the church in the face of such pain.

Despite the challenging circumstances, there were still those who sought inspiration from the spirit of Christmas. Latin Patriarch Pierbattista Pizzaballa, as he arrived from Jerusalem, reminded the sparse crowd that Christmas is a reason to hope, even in the midst of war and violence.

The pared-down Christmas in Bethlehem this year stayed true to the original message of the holiday. It served as a reminder that in times of darkness, the community can come together, united in their waiting for peace. Stephanie Saldaña, who has lived in Jerusalem and Bethlehem for 15 years, believes that this Christmas feels more real than ever. It is a time of anticipation, hoping for a miracle to bring an end to the ongoing conflict.

In a world that can sometimes feel lost, we look to Bethlehem as a reminder of the resilience and hope that Christmas represents. This year, the absence of the usual festivities served as a poignant reminder to reflect on the true meaning of the season: peace, love, and the longing for a world free from suffering and conflict.

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