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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Nicky Rampley-Clarke

Best wine to pair with cheese: Expert's ultimate guide

Ah, wine and cheese: a winning combination that always hits the spot, whether after dessert (or before, if you’re French), just because – it’s the ultimate quick and easy dinner – or as part of an aperitivo (served pre-dinner to whet the whistle).

But why do wine and cheese make such a perfect pairing? It’s all down to their opposing characteristics, say the experts, with cheese being fatty and wine being acidic, making them, like any good couple, bring out the best in each other.

Deniz Bayram, wine educator at WSET (The Wine & Spirit Education Trust), explains the science. “Why does wine pair so well with cheese? The same reason we drown chips in vinegar or smother a roast in gravy – fat and grease need something to cut through and refresh the palate! Wine’s zingy tartness slices through the gooey, salty, creamy goodness of cheese, keeping each bite moreish instead of claggy and heavy.”

Why do sweet wines so often steal the show? Bayram explains: “Because sugar loves salt and fat, making everything feel lush and complete. A golden Sauternes with blue Stilton or a nutty Tawny Port with mature cheddar? No-brainers!

“If a Port is too boozy and intense, the Italians have you covered – Moscato d’Asti (lightly fizzy and floral with a touch of honey), Brachetto d’Acqui (like the pink, red-fruited cousin of Moscato, packed with strawberries and rose petals) or a deep, luscious Recioto della Valpolicella (think Port, but without the punch-you-in-the-face alcohol) will work wonders. A touch of sweetness is often all it takes to transform a cheeseboard.”

The expert continues: “While pudding wines have a magnetic attraction to cheese, dry whites, rosés, and reds have their place, too.

Mature, hard cheeses like sharp cheddar or Manchego? Try them with something with equal guts like a red Rioja Reserva or Australian Shiraz. Quick tip: strong and mature cheeses can mute lighter wines, so just ensure you match their strength.

Punchy cheese? Punchy wine. Delicate cheese? Delicate wine. Simple!”

Bayram concludes: “And here’s a fun one – there’s a tiny village in France, world-famous for its soft, tangy goat’s cheese. What’s it called? You guessed it, Sancerre. Best pairings don’t have to be invented - they often just happen. Fancy a rich Camembert? Try an equally buttery Chilean Chardonnay or a red South African Pinot Noir with a raspberry crunch.

At the end of the day, there are no rules – if it tastes good, it works. But if in doubt, treat wine a bit like chutney. It should complement, soften or lift what’s already on the board, not completely dominate or get overwhelmed by it.”

Peckish for a pairing? Here, we road up the best wine to pair with cheese.

All aboard!

Vin Santo del Chianti D.O.C. 2018

Pair with: a 12-month-old Pecorino

We couldn’t be bigger fans of Fattoria La Vialla, the family-run biodynamic winery in Tuscany, and its Vin Santo del Chianti – a sustainable dessert wine made from withered grapes – is a case in point (quite literally, as they conveniently sell them in boxes of three).

The 2018 vintage is bright copper in colour with an explosion of sweetness on the nose – think dates, sultanas and apricots with just a touch of vanilla – while the palate is all sweet honey with a long aftertaste.

Annette Mueller, the winery’s director of communications and public relations, suggests pairing the bottle with a 12-month-old Pecorino, whose rich, nutty and salty flavours contrast beautifully with the sweetness of the wine.

But she has a rather interesting trick up her sleeve. “Cut the cheese into cubes, dig a small hole into a square and fill it with the wine,” she says. “A super-delicious way to enjoy this pairing.”

Buy now £13.50, Lavialla

Vinca Organic White Wine

Pair with: Pecorino Siciliano

It doesn’t all have to be posh bottles and fancy stemware. The organic white from Vinca, the popular canned wine brand, is a stellar match for Pecorino Siciliano, the sheep’s milk cheese.

Made from Sicily’s famous Catarratto grape, it’s characterised by bright acidity, citrus notes and a stone-fruit finish. Because of its citrussy freshness, it works really well with high-fat cheese, such as sheep’s milk cheese with slightly tangy, nutty flavours. Prefer something milder? A young Pecorino also works, while an aged version adds depth with its firmer texture and sharper taste. Bellissimo!

Buy now £21.00, Vinca

G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Champagne Brut

Pair with: a young Comté

A complex blend of more than 100 vineyards featuring some of the finest terroirs in the region, this Pinot Noir style from Maison Mumm is a versatile Champagne that serves up a winning balance of freshness and intensity.

Gorgeously golden, it’s fresh and rounded on the nose with white and yellow fruit – plus, a dash of brioche – while it's bursting with fruit and caramel on the palate. We found it marvellous with a young Comté thanks to the fruity flavours of the cheese that perfectly complement the similar aromas in the Cordon Rouge.

What’s more, the crisp freshness of the Champagne helps to balance the saltiness of the cheese to create a harmonious and smooth contrast.

Buy now £40.00, Waitrose

Castillo de Ibiza Rosé

Pair with: a rich, soft and creamy Raclette

Rose isn’t perhaps the first wine you think of when it comes to pairing with cheese, but hear us out:beautifully dry and pale, Castillo de Ibiza is a versatile pink with bright fruit aromas and a refreshing palate that make it an excellent choice for a wide variety of cheese.

Arguably, though, its best match is a rich, soft and creamy Raclette – a semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from Switzerland typically used for melting down as an aprés-ski classic – with the crispness of the rosé deftly slicing through like a knife.

Buy now £10.00, Amazon

Greasy Fingers Luscious Red

Pair with: Manchego

We love this blend of Shiraz and Grenache for many things – its luscious character, fun name and cracking label – as well as how well it works with fatty foods like a good burger or enormous steak (both are worth a whirl).

But all of that was put on the back burner when we tried a glass of the red stuff with Manchego. Rich and fruity in the mouth, this sumptuous wine worked oh-so well with the nutty and savoury flavours of the firm cheese. A match made in foodie heaven.

Buy now £10.20, Amazon

Chapel Down A Touch of Sparkle

Pair with: organic Somerset Cheddar

Ripe and fruity with tropical and floral flavours, A Touch of Sparkle by Kentish winery Chapel Down is a homegrown hero that can stand up to the depth and richness of Godminster – an organic Cheddar made in the heart of Somerset and known for its smooth texture and strong flavour.

The Chardonnay grapes in this British sparkling wine works particularly well with the similarly creamy notes of the cheese, while the gentle fizz and crisp finish allow the wine to cut through the mouth-lining effect of the Godminster.

Buy now £15.99, Waitrose

Château de Diusse Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh AOC

Pair with: something sharp and salty

Best paired with sharp and salty cheeses – whether Blue, Gorgonzola, Stilton or Roquefort – Château de Diusse Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh AOC from Gascony-based producer Plaimont makes for a refreshing (and cheaper) alternative to the usual pairing of Sauternes.

Sweet and crisp, the straw-yellow dessert wine is rich, complex and fruity with flavours of lemon and peach that make it a lively accompaniment.

Buy now £11.19, House of Townend

Exton Park RB45 Blanc de Blancs

Pair with: Baron Bigod

As if we needed more proof that British wine is finally having its moment, RB45 Blanc de Blanc, from Hampshire winery Exton Park, is a rounded, complex and savoury sparkling alternative to Champagne.

Made from 100 per cent Chardonnay, it pairs exceptionally well with the likes of a creamy Baron Bigod – an English version of Brie – or a ripe Brie de Meaux. In both, the almost-creamy complexity of the aged Chardonnay is mirrored in the ripe and unctuous soft cheese. Lipsmackingly good.

Buy now £49.00, Exton Park

Moillard Bourgogne Gamay

Pair with: baked camembert

The perfect partner to soft cheeses, this rich Gamay with red-fruit aromas of blackcurrant and blackberries – plus a deliciously round and full finish – is a delight with baked camembert.

We served ours with figs, thyme and hunks of bread the size of your head, and it went down an absolute treat. The fresh and bright notes of the French wine provide a welcome contrast to the rich and creamy texture of the Camembert while making for a refreshing accompaniment.

Buy now £11.00, Tesco

Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV

Pair with: St. Jude from Suffolk

Combining Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, Classic Reserve NV by Hampshire winery Hattingley Valley is made from local grapes and aged for four years for extra richness and depth.

They suggest pairing it with St. Jude, a luxuriously creamy, naturally-ripened soft cheese from Suffolk that’s made from cow’s milk. The rich, buttery texture and distinctive milk profile complement the wine’s bright acidity and orchard-fruit notes while the bubbles cut through its creaminess to create a balance of richness and freshness. Divine.

Buy now £36.00, Hattingley Valley

Quinta da Pedra Alta Vintage Port 2020

Pair with: Stilton

This vintage port from the Quinta da Pedra Alta winery in the Douro Valley (and a Trophy Winner in the International Wine Challenge, no less) serves rich but refined flavours with complex aromas of red, blue and black fruits together with hints of chocolate and spice.

For you, that means a winning match for Long Clawston Stilton, the salty and tangy notes of the latter contrasting beautifully with the sweetness of the former. Crucially, as both are intense, neither overpowers the other.

Buy now £52.00, QP Wines

Berry Bros. & Rudd Amontillado by Bodegas Emilio Lustau

Pair with: aged Manchego

Sherry isn’t just for Christmas, as this dry, nutty Amontillado with an aged Manchego demonstrates, their complementary flavours and textures making for an unexpected but delicious match.

Especially blended for esteemed wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd and classically aged in Jerez de la Frontera in southern Spain, this medium-bodied sherry is fresh and complex with malty hazelnut flavours that harmonise with the similar notes found in the cheese.

Buy now £17.50, Berry Bros. & Rudd

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