While it seems like a new buzz ingredient is popping up each week, retinol has become a steadfast in the skincare market as the gold standard.
A dermatologist favourite for decades, retinol has seen a massive surge in popularity both within the industry as well as from consumers hoping to reap the benefits of this science-backed, Holy Grail ingredient. But with this highly-reactive advanced formulation, you should proceed with caution.
In our hunt for flawless skin, we are decoding everything you need to know about retinol, from when, where and how to use it, to the perfect product for your skin type or concerns.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A and is available in many derivatives like retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate. At a prescription level, you will see Retin-A that is far stronger than over-the-counter alternatives.
Is retinol good for skin?
“Retinol products can help diminish the look of fine lines and wrinkles, increase the appearance of firmness, improve uneven skin tone, smooth and refine the surface of skin, and help mitigate the effects of environmental stressors,” explains Wei Chen, Senior Manager Research and Development at DCL Skincare.
When applied to skin, retinol is broken down to retinoid acid, which is an active form of Vitamin A. The powerhouse ingredients works at both the surface epidermis and deeper dermis level to really pack a punch. It has exfoliating and free radical fighting properties that work to enhance collagen production and speed up cell turnover, thus improving the appearance of sun damage, fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots and leave skin looking plumper. It can also be used to fight severe acne.
Who can use retinol and is retinol safe?
It is a common misconception that retinol should only be used on older skin. You can add this ingredient into your skincare routine from your mid-twenties as a preventative measure due to its anti-ageing benefits.
That being said, those with rosacea, eczema and psoriasis should steer clear of retinol as it can worsen their effects. While there is no definitive link, it may also pose a minor risk to the embryo during pregnancy and should be avoided by anyone pregnant.
Retinol can also affect sensitive skin and should not be mixed with AHA’s or BHA’s as this can cause irritation.
When should you use retinol?
Dr Stefanie Williams, Dermatologist and Director of Eudelo explains that it is not necessary to stop using retinoids in summer, “they help repair sun damage so are very useful. However, topical retinoids such as retinol or retinaldehyde may make your skin slightly more sun sensitive, so it’s important to always combine them with SPF 30-50.” She continues, “The only time I would recommend stopping retinoids is when sun exposure is extreme, such as on a sunny beach holiday."
Apply at night and follow up with a high, broad spectrum SPF the next (and every) day. This cannot be stressed enough. When travelling to warmer or colder climes, it may be worth layering up with a heavier moisturiser to prevent dehydration.
You may experience some flaking, peeling or dryness when first using the ingredient. Wait an average of 12 weeks for your retinoid to take a noticeable effect. Everyone’s skin reacts differently but irritation is normal in the first few weeks as your skin starts to adapt. Hang in there but if it persists longer, swap out for a lower concentration or seek the advice of a professional dermatologist.
What concentration of retinol should you be using?
Studies have shown that even a very minor amount of retinol used regularly for a prolonged period can show improvement. But the strength and concentration that you opt for should depend on your skin type, tolerance and concern.
“Retinol can be irritating to some skin types,” explains Dr Dennis Gross, founder of Dr Dennis Gross skincare. He recommends formulas with low concentrations of retinol (up to 0.04% if you have sensitivity) and opting for those that feature soothing ingredients like ferulic acid.
The potency is usually depicted on the front of the product but there is more to consider than meets the eye. Molecular weight and formulation also play a part which means that the more retinol used, does not mean it is always the most concentrated formula.
Introduce retinol gradually into your regime. You should start with only a small amount and low concentration (less than one per cent). Use only once or twice a week to begin and build up as time goes on.
What are the best retinol products?
When choosing you retinol, it’s not only the inside that counts. As the ingredient is sensitive to air and light, it must be stored in opaque packaging. Exposure to sunlight makes it less active and potent, therefore, effective. For this same reason and as mentioned above, you should only use at night and wear SPF the following day.
Apply to a freshly cleansed and toned skin and before you serums, moisturisers, oils or creams. Don’t forget the eye area where the most damage tends to be.
We have gathered the best retinol-based products to switch up your skincare routine.
Best Retinol Creams and Serums 2020
Shani Darden Skincare
Celebrity facialist Shani Darden is responsible for one of the most covetable and acclaimed products in skincare: Texture Reform. Adherent devotees include Chrissy Teigen, Jessica Alba and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley but celebrity endorsement aside here's what you need to know: this is a gentle formula with powerhouse results, perfect for sensitive skin but no less effective on complexions that aren't as easily reactive.
Texture Reform uses a mild retinol to tackle skin texture and fine lines, the formula also includes latic acid for exfoliation and skin brightening, niacinamide to help shrink and refine the pores and soothing aloe vera to calm.
While it might be tempting to go all-in on a super concentrated, high-dose retinol you could potentially scorch your skin before you see results. Retinol requires patience and good practice (don't combine it with other AHA formulas, use SPF and don't wear retinol based products in direct sunlight) but if used properly you will absolutely see results.
This slightly milky thin cream should be applied in the evening using just one or two pumps — it's enough to give you a noticeable glowing, fresh faced complexion in about one month, with fine lines faded in about six to eight weeks.
Complexions with hyperpigmentation or a very uneven skin tone can expect dark spots to lessen in about 12 weeks.
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream
This is a retinol with cult following and there’s good reason for that. The hyped range lives up to its name with a product that packs a punch containing a winning combination of retinol at a 1 per cent concentration.
Combined with nourishing passionfruit, apricot, kale and winter cherry extracts – which are packed with antioxidants, moisturising properties and will protect against environmental stressors. The product also contains peptides that work in tandem with the retinol to offer added elasticity through a boost in collagen production.
While it is an effective product for minimising the appearance of fine lines and dark spots as well as revitalising you skin, it has a potent formulation that can irritate and lead to peeling if you over apply or apply too often.
You should use a pea sized amount on clean, dry skin and begin the treatment but using it twice a week, working up to every other night and then every night for the seasoned retinol users.
As with the entire Drunk Elephant range, the product is free from drying alcohols, silicones, chemical screens, fragrance or dyes and SLS.
Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
This is a concentrated formula with one of the highest, bioavailable forms of Vitamin A that you can buy over the counter – and yet, somehow is able to reduce some of the more unwanted side effects like flaking, redness and irritation better than its contemporaries. It uses 6.5 per cent stabilised retinoid and retinoid-like botanical extracts to transform your complexion — and transform it does.
In instance of this particular formula: high retinol, high reward. This serum also works effectively to fight blemishes, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and reverse UV damage.
Use as a serum applied after you have cleansed and toned. Apply one or two pumps as part of your evening skincare regime. This is an excellent product and worthy of a prized place in any skincare routine.
Also available from Cult Beautyand Net-a-Porter
Pixi Retinol Tonic
Introduce retinol into your skincare regime in a more subtle way through this Pixi tonic – and for an affordable price tag. You may already be a fan of the brand’s Glow or Rose tonic but this formulation has become one of our favourites as it uses a time-release retinol to revitalise skin and leave you with a natural glow.
It also combines the retinol ingredient with Jasmine Flower to soothe and heal as well as peptides that work alongside the retinol to boost collagen production. Use as a toner after you have cleansed – this gentle formula can be used daily and is perfect for anyone hesitant to try a stronger formula that comes with a higher price tag. You won't get the same benefits
Also available from lookfantastic and Boots
Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum
For this retinol night serum, retinol combined with ceramides that work to reduce signs of ageing and boost moisture respectively – particularly handy as retinol is known to dry out your skin. The single-dose capsules are sealed in an opaque casing that ensure they are more potent than un-encapsulated formulas (76 per cent more according to the brand). They are also fully biodegradable and hand luggage-friendly.
To use, twist and squeeze the capsule into your hand and apply the serum all over your face and neck. You will start to notice the results in only one month where you skin will appear brighter, more even and a noticeable reduction in visibility of dark spots or discolouration.
Also available at Elizabeth Arden
Kate Somerville +Retinol Vitamin C Power Serum
Kate Somerville has teamed retinol with another powerhouse ingredient, Vitamin C, to create a super serum that utilises retinol to boost the skin’s firmness and reduce the signs of ageing and Vit-C to leave your complexion brighter and more even. Together this duet of ingredients will leave you with glowing, youthful-looking skin in only a few uses. It's strong but it works.
This is a very lightweight formula that absorbs quickly and is especially useful for anyone battling hyperpigmentation.
Apply to your face and neck, avoiding the eye area and follow with hydrating moisturiser. Use sun cream and don’t combine with any other retinol products.
Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum
Dr. Dennis Gross is renowned for products that perform, and this one is no different. Sensitive skin should give this silky serum a try due to its added Ferulic acid, which soothes and ensures the product’s retinol is gently absorbed.
The formula is slightly creamy with an off-white colour and will lighten dark spots in about one month, with increased benefits the longer you use it. Some of our mature skin testers preferred this product due to its ultra silky texture and quick turn around time from the first application. "It's like a power nap for my skin," so says one of our most recent converts. And who doesn't want to look like they get a regular kip?
Fresh Pressed Clinical Daily and Overnight Booster Duo
A popular addition to the Clinique line, the Fresh Pressed Overnight Booster sits alongside Clinique’s bestselling vitamin C booster (best used in the AM). Those wary of adding yet another step into their routines will rejoice; all you need to do is add in a few drops of the overnight booster into your night cream and mix. The product is also brilliant for retinol beginners and younger skins, as the amount of product can be controlled and built up easily.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3
The King Kong of powerful retinol and beloved by beauty insiders, Medik8’s cream is a supercharged formula that touts the claim you will see visible results up to 11x faster thanks to the active ingredient Retinal.
Retinal and Retinol achieve the same results but the difference lies in how long it takes to get there. This is a strong product and people with sensitive skin should tread lightly, but mature skin will find it to be an ideal match — you should still start with a low-dose, mature skin doesn't guarantee your complexion isn't sensitive but WOW does this formula get down to business fast.
Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3 High Potency Refining Night Treatment
Much like most of the Skinceuticals line, this product really delivers in a no-frills, fuss-free manner. It contains pure retinol at 0.3 per cent, so is effective yet manageable enough for beginners or those at a moderate level. A little goes a long way, and the price isn’t too intimidating.
This product would suit people with acne, younger skin and anyone with hyperpigmentation. We saw dark spots fade with continued use, after four months one tester claimed it was "the best product I accidentally discovered".
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream
I love this product, aside from the intended benefits powered by retinol and a peptide-rich red algae extract, this cream will diminish a blemish in no time at all. If I feel the slightest protrusion begin to form this is my go-to product, not as a spot treatment but as an overall corrector. It floods the skin with anti-ageing properties, and brightens the complexion gently but with results you can see.
Any beauty product with a pump gets extra beauty points for keeping potentially dirty fingers from dipping into the pot and oxygen away from the formula.
Mature skin, young skin, acne, no acne — a lot of people will find this product works very well indeed.
Verdict
All of these formulas are a potential Best but our top pick goes to Shani Darden's True Reform for its expert balancing act that combines gentle ingredients with high quality retinol. It offers sincere, visible results and is appropriate for all skin types. If you are more of a seasoned retinol user, Medik8's Crystal Retinal 3is a powerful choice and we think the Retinol Youth Cream from Murad deserves to considered as your new favourite.
