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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Nicky Rampley-Clarke

Best Old and New World wines for a taste journey to Europe and beyond

You may have heard the terms ‘Old World’ and ‘New World’ when it comes to describing wine, perhaps in fussy restaurants with impossibly long wine lists and sommeliers who seemingly talk in another language (when all you really want on a Wednesday evening is a decent Sauvvy B or Cab Sav).

But there are times when you need to speak the language of discerning oenophiles to sound like you know your stuff and be equipped with suitable bragging rights when it comes to good dinner party chat. 

Fear not, as we’ve leveraged the expertise of Anjali Douglas, tastings and event manager at WSET, the Wine & Spirit Education Trust in London that arranges courses and exams in the field of wine and spirits (as you’d expect). 

“The safe assumption when hearing the term ‘Old World’ is that it’s describing a wine from a western European region – France, Italy and Spain, for example; meanwhile, the term ‘New World’ describes regions outside of Europe – countries like the USA, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.

The overriding implication is that the Old World produces wines that are subtle, restrained and have more savoury flavours; and that New World wine has pure, fruity aromas with a fuller style and higher level of alcohol. The further implication is that Old World wines are more complex, difficult for an average drinker to understand and are better suited to connoisseurs; by contrast, the suggestion is that New World regions make a more approachable style of wine that’s easier to drink and grasp.

“There are two reasons why the use of these terms is declining.

Firstly, they can seem too Eurocentric and patronising to non-European countries. These terms were created in Europe – ‘New’ being in reference to countries being ‘discovered’ by Europeans and when a culture of winemaking was introduced. There are countless exceptions to this idea: Australia and Chile have some of the oldest grapevines in the world, for example, while South Africa’s winemaking history dates back to the 1600s.

Secondly, the Old World implies a fustiness or closed-minded perspective from winemakers in European regions. But now there are new generations of well-travelled European winemakers who have borrowed ideas from across the world and have been inspired to make changes.

Thirdly, climate change has diluted the legitimacy of these terms. ‘Old World’ used to imply grapes grown in a marginal climate where it’s cooler and more challenging. However, we know that climate change is increasing both average temperatures and extreme weather events around the world – no region is immune and wine styles are changing everywhere because of it.”

Douglas continues: “If we’re trying to distinguish and communicate wine styles, there are other ways to do it. Do you prefer bold, fruit-forward wines? You could try an Amarone della Valpolicella from North-East Italy or a classic style of Shiraz from Barossa Valley, Australia.

Or do you like delicate, savoury wines? Try an old vine País from Chile or a Pinot Noir from Burgundy in France. Do you prefer cool climate wines? Try a Riesling from Finger Lakes in New York or indeed a Chablis from Northern France. How about warm climate wines? Try a ripe and rich Primitivo from Puglia or a Zinfandel from California.” 

Here, we’ve collected a handful of bottles representing the best of both Old and New World wine – in no particular order – providing just a snapshot of the sheer variety and scale on shelves today.

Although, we have to admit, it was rather fun sipping and slurping our way through the research, even if it was just the very tip of the iceberg. Hic.

Shop now 

Yealands Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Looking for a classic Sauvignon Blanc from the New World? Call off the search. The vibrant, fruity and crisp flavours in Yealands Reserve are courtesy of the beautiful climate in winemaker Natalie Christensen’s coastal home of Awatere Valley, Marlborough.

Buy now £11.99, Waitrose

Jesús Madrazo No. IV Rioja

Old World doesn’t mean old wine in this young and sweet Rioja bursting with cherry, raspberry and cassis flavours complemented by notes of toasted vanilla. A bold and spicy bottle that goes brilliantly with rich meat like lamb chops. 

Buy now £29.00, Waitrose Cellar

Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs Twenty Eighteen

Gusbourne, the Kentish winery, has put its best foot forward with this signature sparkling wine made from the finest Chardonnay and serving up an elegant and fresh blanc de blancs. Expect a vibrant golden colour with green apple and citrus aromas complemented by flavours of buttered toast and tarte tatin. Delish with freshly-shucked oysters. 

Buy now £65.00, Gusbourne

2022 Berry Bros. & Rudd Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir by Benjamin Leroux

The perfect winter Burgundy, this bottle is expressive and refreshing thanks to grapes harvested from old vines in Chorey-lès-Beaune with red-berry fruits and a hint of vanilla oak. Team with grilled meats and soft cheese to bring out its absolute best.

Buy now £26.50, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Denbies Chardonnay 2022

Ripe green apple and freshly-peeled lychee aromas make way for a palate of citrus with a caramelised tarte tatin finish in this New World Chardonnay from Denbies Wine Estate in Surrey.

Buy now £34.99, Grape Brittania

2022 Berry Bros. & Rudd White Burgundy by Collovray & Terrier

The perfect introduction to Chardonnay – particularly for those who don’t think they like Chardonnay – this white Burgundy from esteemed wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd serves up signature white-stone fruit and toasty oak with peach and nectarine flavours. As super with salads as it is seafood.

Buy now £17.50, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Aslina Skin-Contact Chenin Blanc

A seriously drinkable Chenin Blanc from South Africa’s first female black winemaker, Aslina is a powerhouse bottle with refreshing flavours of honeybush tea and yellow pear. The delicate hue is achieved by soaking the handpicked grapes in their skins for seven days – hence the name.

Buy now £16.99, Waitrose Cellar

Marques de los Rios Rioja Gran Reserva

Rich and intense with delicious strawberry and vanilla flavours, this Old World Rioja from Spain offers plenty of bang for your buck. A mid-week winner.

Buy now £14.00, Morrisons

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Accounting for around two thirds of New Zealand’s vines, Marlborough is the country’s largest wine-producing region, and this bottle is testament to its talents with a vibrant palate of passionfruit and kaffir lime.

Buy now £13.90, Tesco

Morrisons The Best Bordeaux Superior

This is a youthful Bordeaux from the Old World that’s part of The Best collection at Morrisons with every wine cherrypicked by their expert buyers. It’s made from mostly Merlot grapes with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to give it an unoaked profile and plum flavours. Lipsmackingly good.

Buy now £8.75, Morrisons

Morrisons The Best Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon

A steal at this price, The Best Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit grown in its namesake region and laden with cassis, blackcurrant and plum notes with just a touch of vanilla. Fabulously ripe and fresh.

Buy now £7.50, Morrisons

By Amazon Our Selection Côtes du Rhône

Tell only who you must, but Amazon is our new secret place for shopping wine. This is pure Côtes du Rhône with juicy, floral aromas and a fresh palate of warm spice. As good with summer BBQs as it is with winter-warmers.

Buy now £7.99, Amazon

Peter Lehmann ‘True Legend’ Shiraz 2022

With bright and fresh raspberry flavours plus hints of satsuma, plum and cherry, this bold and spicy Shiraz from the Barossa Valley in southern Australia is brilliant with a hearty casserole.

Buy now £14.99, Majestic

M&S Collection Sancerre Les Ruettes

A deliciously dry Sancerre made with Sauvignon Blanc grapes in the Loire Valley. Notes of tangy citrus and herbs pair excellently with seafood and goat’s cheese.

Buy now £16.00, Ocado

Villiera Cap Classique Brut

Hailing from an ethical and sustainable winemaker in Stellenbosch, South Africa, this sparkling wine is made using the traditional method using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes that age for a minimum of 18 months for extra texture and flavour. It’s fresh and zesty with notes of brioche. An A-star aperitif.

Buy now £16.99, Majestic

Louis Couturier Cremant de Bordeaux

An expressive Cremant with aromas of lemon sorbet and brioche you can’t help but get your lips around. Much like the most gregarious host, it’s fizzing with character, making this perfect as a welcome drink for your next big soirée. 

Buy now £9.00, Morrisons

Asda Extra Special Awatere Sauvignon Blanc

From the Marlborough region producing some of New Zealand’s most prestigious wines, this Sauvvy B adds surprising notes of lemongrass and fresh herbs to traditional passionfruit and citrus flavours. The perfect match for fragrant Asian dishes.

Buy now £9.75, Asda

Le Zeitgeist Cabernet Sauvignon Vin de France 2021

Contrasting to the slightly unripe Cab Savs from multiple regions of France, this gorgeous variety is made with grapes grown in the sunny south to create a wine bursting with red and black fruit.

Buy now £10.98, Virgin Wines

Morrisons The Best Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon

The grapes used in this Cab Sav come from the Maipo Valley, a region of Chile known as the ‘Bordeaux of South America’, which produces juicy blackcurrant, blackberry and green pepper flavours with just a hint of spice.

Buy now £7.50, Morrisons

Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages 2022

Superbly balanced and slightly creamy, this Chardonnay positively sings with refreshing flavours of citrus and apple.

Buy now £13.00, Ocado

Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir Couvent des Jacobins 2022

Harmonious and balanced with fruity flavours and a silky texture, this is a medium Pinot Noir that’s perfect for lighter dishes.

Buy now £15.99, Cellier

Quinta da Pedra Alta Reserva Tinto 2019

A Douro red from the esteemed valley in Portugal that’s deliciously complex, rich and concentrated. Aromas of red, blue and black fruits with spicy notes make way for luscious, fruit-laden flavours you’ll remember long after the bottle is finished.

Buy now £27.95, Cellar Door Wines

Laurent Miquel Vendanges Nocturnes Viognier 2022

Crisp, balanced and aromatic, this Viognier – made by its namesake vigneron – is made using grapes picked at night when cooler temperatures ensure the delicate fruit is in tip-top condition. The result is evocative aromas of apricot, pear and honeysuckle that make it perfect as a pre-dinner sharpener.

Buy now £9.99, Waitrose

Altaland Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Salta

Exclusive to Majestic and new from Catena – a winemaking family in Argentina dating back to 1902 – this Cabernet Sauvignon is made from grapes sourced from high-altitude vineyards. Its grape, Salta, thrives with intense flavours of redcurrant and mocha preceded by spicy, herbaceous aromas.

Buy now £13.98, Majestic

Aldi Specially Selected Kooliburra Merlot

Dark plum aromas and decadent oak flavours characterise this Specially Selected Merlot from Aldi, a source of quality wines for discerning insiders.

Buy now £8.19, Aldi

Pierre Jaurant Bordeaux

Recently likened to a £3,000 red wine favoured by the Beckhams, this blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Bordeaux region offers cinnamon spice on the nose and a palate of plums and morello cherries.

Buy now £5.28, Aldi

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