One of the things I love most about putting together a list of the Best Italian Wines for any particular year is the variety of offerings I have to choose from. For many countries, we are looking at 6-10 varietals that make up most of the top wines, but for Italy, it’s several dozen. That means that along with full-bodied, iconic reds such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello di Montalcino and Amarone, I also get to include Montepulciano di Abruzzo and Palagrello Nero for the reds, while the whites include terrific offerings as Verdicchio, Vermentino, Greco di Tufo as well as blended whites from Friuli. And of course, there are several wonderful sparkling wines as well!
Here is my list of the Best Italian Wines for 2018, with comments on a few of the wines, all of which are outstanding.
Sparkling
Ferghettina Franciacorta Pas Dosé Riserva “33″ 2011 - From one of Franciacorta’s most accomplished producers, this is 100% Chardonnay, and has spent 80 months on the lees. Great complexity and richness, combined with superb harmony and texture.
Ca’ del Bosco “Annamaria Clementi” 2007 - This is arguably Franciacorta’s greatest wine, year in and year out. The 2007 offering is a seamless blend of 55% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Bianco and 20% Pinot Bianco. Quite rich, this offers distinct minerality and will drink well for another 5-7 years.
Ferrari “Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore” 2006
Ferrari “Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Rosé” 2006 - The Giulio Ferrari Riserva, from Trentino, is one of Italy’s most treasured sparkling wines, and the 2006 is another gem; a powerful sparkling wine that will seemingly live forever (well, at least another 10 years). This year it is joined for the first time by a Giulio Ferrari Riserva Rosé, produced primarily from Pinot Nero, with a small percentage of Chardonnay). This is a great sparkling wine, simply stunning. There are aromas of currant, red plum and strawberry, while there is very good, but not too high acidity. Aged 11 years on the lees, this has remarkable freshness. Delicious, with outstanding texture. Arguably the finest sparkling wine from Italy.
Altemasi Riserva “Graal” 2010 (Trentodoc) – A great sparkler that should be better known. Great intensity of flavors.
Colmello (Pat de Colmel) Prosecco Extra Dry (Asolo Prosecco) – Asolo Prosecco is the “other” Prosecco DOCG zone, one that is starting to make some headway in terms of media and consumer attention. This example is prime evidence of how good this area is. Medium-bodied with intriguing aromas of dried apricot, gum, lilac and ginger, this has good richness on the palate, with an off-dry finish, and will drink well for 2-3 years. Offering impressive complexity, this is the finest Extra Dry Prosecco I have ever tasted.
Bisol “Private Cartizze” Superiore di Cartizze - Regarding Prosecco, Bisol is at the top of the quality pyramid, towering above most other producers from this area, with the dazzling array and excellence of their products. This Private Cartizze is my favorite wine from Bisol, a Prosecco that is fermented in the bottle (as opposed to a large tank) and has zero dosage. Offering aromas of lemon zest, orange peel and marigold, this is a stylish, very dry Prosecco with superb complexity. Absolutely delicious!
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White
Livio Felluga “Terre Alte” 2016 (Friuli) - Terre Alte from select vineyards at the Livio Felluga estate in Friuli, is one of Italy’s signature whites. A blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, the 2016 is particularly rich and mouth filling; this should age beautifully, with peak drinking in 12-15 years.
Schiopetto Friulano 2017 (Friuli) - Textbook Friulano; great intensity, with outstanding varietal character and balance.
Pietracupa Greco di Tufo 2017 (Campania) - The textbook Greco di Tufo, and my choice year in and year out as Italy’s best white wine. Unparalleled minerality and varietal purity.
San Salvatore “Pian di Stio” 2017 (Campania) – Wonderfully fragrant Fiano – superb varietal purity. This estate in the Salerno province of Campania is producing many first-rate wines.
Marisa Cuomo “Fiorduva” 2017 (Campania) – Campania’s boldest and most complex white, a blend of local varieties (Ginestra, Fenile, Biancolella) from the Amalfi Coast. Barrel fermented and aged – ages forever!
Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco “Santo Spirito” 2017 (Sicily) - The finest Etna Bianco I have ever tasted; 100% Carricante, aged in oak with great depth of fruit; a powerful white that should drink well for another 5-7 years, but perhaps even longer.
Cantine Lunae Bosoni Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2017 (Liguria) - As fragrant and delicious a Vermentino as there is in Italy; exotic aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle and mango – heavenly!
Andrea Felici Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva “Il Cantico della Figura” 2015 - One of the great releases of Verdicchio with classic varietal character and marvelous subtleties. This wine gets better with every release.
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Red
Nanni Cope Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco 2016 (Campania) – My vote for the best Italian wine of the year. Produced primarily from Palagrello Nero in the province of Caserta in northern Campania by Giovanni Ascione, this wine is a revelation. Power, intensity and structure for the long haul, combined with grace and finesse. Superb!
Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi Riserva “Piano di Montevergine” 2013 (Campania) – Taurasi is as complex and as refined a wine as Barolo, Barbaresco, Amarone and Brunello di Montalcino, yet it rarely gets the respect it demands. This single vineyard release from a first-rate growing season is particularly elegant as well as deeply concentrated; peak in 15-20 years.
Pietradolce Etna Rosso “Contrada Santo Spirito” 2016 (Sicily) - Produced from vineyards dating between 80-100 years of age, this is 100% Nerello Mascalese with great soul! Full-bodied with great complexity, this already displays its terroir beautifully; it should be amazing in another 5 to 7 years, with peak in 12-15 years.
Le Casematte Faro 2016 (Sicily) – Le Casematte is one of the few wineries to produce a Faro; theirs is a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Capuccio, Nocera and Nero d’Avola. Rich and ripe with bold black fruit and chocolate flavors, this is highly unique! Peak in 10-15 years.
Vietti Barolo “Rocche di Castiglione” 2014 (Piedmont) - The Barolos from the 2014 vintage have been wonderful surprises, as few expected much from this cool growing season. Yet, the wines have great structure and acidity, and are truly in a style not seen much these days; several winemakers told that their 2014 Barolos were like their fathers and grandfathers used to make. This Vietti Barolo was the best 2014 I tasted; from the renowned vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, this is what great Barolo is all about – ideal Nebbiolo character, very good acidity, wonderful depth of fruit and ideal harmony. Peak in 15-20 years.
M. Marengo Barolo “Brunate” 2014 (Piedmont) - Another wonderful 2014 Barolo, this is from the famed Brunate vineyard. Marengo Barolos are sometimes a bit too oaky, but not this wine. Great balance and sense of place. Peak in 15-20 years.
Paolo Manzone Barolo Riserva 2012 (Piedmont) – Paolo Manzone in Serralunga d’Alba, produces classically-styled Barolo. This 2012 Riserva, from an excellent growing season, is sourced from the Meriame vineyard at his estate (the vines are more than 70 years old), and this is a superb Barolo with textbook Serralunga style and structure. Manzone uses mid-sized and large casks for aging, along with a few months in amphaorae. Brilliantly realized, this will offer great pleasure for another 15-20 years.
Pio Cesare Barbaresco “Il Bricco” 2014 (Piedmont) – I’ve always liked this single vineyard Barbaresco for its varietal character and structure, but the 2014 is as good a release as I’ve enjoyed. 2014 in this zone was all about wine of harmony and structure, not power; to many producers here, 2014 was a growing season similar to what their parents and ancestors encountered. Sometimes the wood notes are a bit strong in this wine, but not in this 2014. Beautiful complexity! Peak in 15-20 years.
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Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Poggio” 2013 (Tuscany) – The first – and still one of the best – single vineyard Chianti Classico. The 2013 is as complete a wine as Monsanto has made in years. A great Chianti Classico Riserva – a wine of tremendous breeding.
Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (Tuscany) – Simply one of the two or three finest estates in Montalcino. Impressive depth of fruit, classic structure and superb harmony. Peak in 15-20 years, perhaps longer.
Il Maronetto Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (Tuscany) – Over the past decade, this small estate managed by Giuseppe Mori has become one of the elite prodcuers of Brunello di Montalcino. His special bottling labeled Madonna delle Grazie is always special, but in the 2013 vintage, his classic Brunello is as good. Superb varietal purity and sense of place; peak in 12-15 years.
Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (Tuscany) – Quietly, this producer has become one of the finest and most consistent of all Brunello estates. Excellent depth of fruit, beautiful complexity of fruit, spice and tannin and the structure to go the distance. Peak in 15-20 years.
Ca’ La Bionda Amarone della Valpolicella Classico “Ravizzol” 2013 (Veneto) – Ca’ La Bionda, run by Alessandro Castellani gets my vote as the finest producer of Amarone; his estate is certainly one of the least known great producers in all of Italy. While this wine is 16% alcohol, blame that on the growing season, as 2013 was extremely hot. The wine still manages to display elegance and charm, thanks in part to Castellani’s use of large casks for aging. Peak in 15-20 years, perhaps longer.
