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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Travel
Mike MacEacheran

Best Isle of Skye hotels 2023: Where to stay for luxury views and coastal walks

Flodigarry Hotel

Located off the west coast of Scotland, the mountains are charcoal black and rust red. The sea cloudy blue, always translucent. The sand shines, running the spectrum from dirty gold to pearly white. These are the colours of the Isle of Skye and they help frame the aesthetics of the Hebridean island’s best hotels. Some are located where mountains crash into the sea. Others offer dreamlike reverie beside beaches and cliffs.

The Isle of Skye is a great destination for a romantic retreat, offering cozy spots to slow down and enjoy the scenery. But that doesn’t rule out families as the countryside is ripe for walking or cycling adventures.

With its coastal location, foodies will be delighted by fresh fish finds such as shellfish and langoustines that are served in some of the hotel restaurants. All washed down with a glass of local Talisker Single Malt Scotch Whisky that has been made on the Isle since 1830.

The best hotels on the Isle of Skye are:

Cosy up in this Dutch-inspired hotel (Hotel Flodigarry )

Best hotel for luxury: Flodigarry Hotel

Northern Trotternish

When ashen-skies loom on Skye, visitors should head north of Staffin to this riot of a boutique hotel for its Brigadoon-via-Bali design. The Dutch owners have imbued such a sense of aesthetic personality in the suites and lodges that it can be hard to work out if you’re in Scotland or Southeast Asia — but they’re also amongst the finest rooms in the Hebrides. The deliciously stylish restaurant and bar, with heart-pumping views across to Torridon on the mainland, are worth a visit regardless of whether you are a guest or not and the location represents the ultimate layover for hikes to The Old Man of Storr and Quiraing.

Best hotel for romantic couples retreats: Kinloch Lodge

This lodge is perfect for a couples’ weekend (Kinloch Lodge)

Location: Sleat Peninsula

With a reputation built on its kitchen (then, in the 1970s, home cooked wonders from original owner Claire Macdonald, now Michelin-star flair from experimental chef Jordan Webb), it’d be easy to forget the romance of this five-star boutique. First, there’s the location, overlooking the mesmerising Loch na Dal and Sound of Sleat. Then there’s the sophisticated, soft-tartan rooms and the exquisite service, be it fireside with a single malt or out in the heather with the hotel ghillie on a sunrise deer stalk (shooting with cameras, not guns). Also, worth a mention is the nearby abandoned ruin of Leiter Fura, a wonderfully alluring yomp along the coast.

Best hotel for history: Hotel Eilean Larmain

Stay in one of the Eileen Larmain’s 12 historic bedrooms (Eilean Larmain)

Location: Sleat Peninsula

Named after a Gaelic seafaring hero, this 12-bed Sleat hotel used to be the gateway to the island. Flora MacDonald, of Bonnie Prince Charlie fame, departed Skye from its pier. The same jetty used to be the busiest port in the northwest Highlands and the largest store outside Glasgow was once based here. Which is to say it brims with history and ambience at every turn, from the grandstanding lobby portrait of Sir Iain Noble of Ardkinglas, hotel patron and far-sighted founder of Skye’s Gaelic college, to the dovetailed local’s pub Am Pràban, with trad music sessions, open arms vibe and signature range of blended Gaelic whiskies. The sense is this is a creaky hotel with history, retaining what brought people to Skye in the first place.

Best hotel for views: Cuillin Hills Hotel

Is there a better view to have with your breakfast? (Cuillin Hills)

Location: Portree

First thing’s first: the panorama from the lawn of this family-run hotel is almost incomprehensible, scrolling across Portree to the black peaks of the Cuillins in the distance, leaving all comers in complete awe. There are 39 rooms and suites, making it the largest property on the island, but what also comes with the carousel of check-ins is investment (£2 million in the past five years) and here-and-now mod-cons: monster TVs, Nespresso machines, luxe amenities and QR code room service (also a first for the island). An infinity pool is in the works, plus co-owner and manager Edward Wickman is an absolute gent. Note, unlike other hotels the Cuillin Hills is open all-year round.

Best hotel for foodies: Three Chimneys and The House Over-By

There’s something for everyone at the Three Chimney’s restaurant (Three Chimneys)

Location: Colbost

Even if you never seen the point of a hiking or biking holiday (Skye’s stock in trade), you have to come to the island just to experience this sublime restaurant with six rooms. The seafront accommodation is subtle, not shouty, with a Noughties-Scandi feel and mini terrace for al fresco drinks, but, really, you’re coming here for the tasting menu and a la carte lunch. Once a croft, the kitchen is run by Welsh wonder Scott Davies and, alongside his Chefs’ Table out the back, he lives up to the promise of a near-zero mile philosophy. Creel langoustines are pulled from traps out the front, shellfish is picked up from Dunvegan harbour and the beef comes from Vatten farm six miles away. It’s popular — and expensive — for a reason.

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Best budget hotel: Sligachan Hotel

The best spot for hiking up the mountains (Sligachan Hotel)

Location: Sligachan

Perhaps only the Highlands could have come up with such a fantastical proposition. A slick hotel in almost the middle of nowhere (cue hit or miss 4G signals) and with an onsite craft brewery, fabulous pub and in walking and biking distance to stunning sea lochs and the Black and Red Cuillin, the most astonishing mountains in all of Britain. The landscape here is ripe for adventures, which explains why the place is muddy boot and backpacker territory, but also for those seeking solitude and escape. Rooms-wise, doubles are a serious upgrade on what the outdoors crowd typically expects — think rolltop tubs, Smeg fridges and luxe toiletries.

Best hotel for families: Duisdale House Hotel

Travelling with the kids doesn’t need to be a headache at this family-friendly hotel (Duisdale House)

Location: Sleat Peninsula

The Sonas Collection operates three hotels on Skye, including Toravaig House Hotel and Skeabost House Hotel (see below), but this 21-bed property is the standout for families. Once a stately home built in 1867, then appropriated by the British army during the Second World War, it’s a sort of rambling place, with expansive lawns and gardens, beach access, grand piano lounge and Hamish the hotel dog. Babysitting services and children’s menus come as standard, while young ones get treated to a soft toy cuddly otter — the mascot of the hotel and a good excuse to visit the International Otter Survival Fund in nearby Broadford, a 10-min drive away. For Mums and Dads, an indulgent interlude comes courtesy of the Chart Room bar, with nautical theme, and cocktails made with garden fruits.

Best hotel for country sports: Skeabost House Hotel

Coming with your dog? Consider the Skeabost (Skeabost House Hotel)

Location: Loch Snizort

Anyone for a round of golf? No, you’re not in St. Andrews, Carnoustie or Troon, but this old-school all-rounder comes with the premier 9-hole golf course on the island, as well as more country sports than you could shake a stick at. That’s thanks to full-time ghillie Danny Docherty, who’s a fly-fishing expert and dab hand at tickling salmon and trout that swim the rivers of the surrounding glens. Inside, the period features (sweeping staircase, high ceilings, stag-head lamps) measure up well against more sophisticated rooms and garden suites with balconies, while there are plenty of other highlights. How about 23 acres to explore, electric car chargers and dog-friendly treats?

Read more of our hotel reviews in Scotland:

Read more on Scotland travel:

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