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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Travel
Robin McKelvie

Best hotels in Scotland 2023: Where to stay for the ultimate escape

Robin Mckelvie

Gone are the days of fusty, old-school Scottish hotels. Today, Scotland offers a wealth of welcoming hotel options to suit all tastes, types and budgets. The classic old-world luxury dames still proudly proffer their history in the glens and overlooking the lochs, with many back at their best in recent years, thanks to some serious investment. They’ve been joined by a new wave of boutique accommodations, where tartan twee is eschewed for cutting-edge design and the work of local artists and craftspeople.

Scotland’s eight cities all boast a dizzying array of options, with real choice, too, out in the Highlands and on the islands. Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway for two, a life-affirming family break packed with action, or a chilled escape with old pals, you’ll find it north of Hadrian’s Wall in a country where jaw-dropping scenery comes as standard. Scottish hospitality has moved up a notch as customers’ expectations rise ever higher, and, when it comes to picking a place to stay, we’ve rounded up the best of the best.

The best hotels in Scotland 2023 are:

Best hotels in Edinburgh

Best luxury hotel: The Balmoral

Neighbourhood: Edinburgh

The Balmoral hotel has a JK Rowling room where the author completed her Harry Potter saga (Rocco Forte Hotels)

This quintessential Edinburgh hotel has proudly stood at No.1 Princes Street since 1902. Rocco Forte’s flagship city hotel is constantly being tweaked to stay ahead. Book a room with a castle view or the room where JK Rowling completed her Harry Potter saga – all rooms have the same classically luxurious, calm vibe. A basement spa with the Irene Forte Skincare range tempts, along with the pool. Delve below street level too for Number One, which has cherished a well-deserved Michelin star for more than two decades. It still does a proper Scotch beef steak if you don’t want to experiment with the modern Scottish creations. Expand your whisky horizons at SCOTCH whisky bar with its 500 whiskies, or savour afternoon tea beneath a Venetian chandelier, accompanied by the soothing sounds of the harp in Palm Court.

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Best hotel for couples: Orocco Pier

Neighbourhood: Edinburgh

Enjoy views of the famous Forth Bridge from this cosy hotel (Orocco Pier Hotel)

The seaside suburb of South Queensferry is a favourite of Edinburghers during weekends. Enjoy the day-trip delights of the cobbled high street’s shops, a boat trip on Maid of the Forth out to the wee island of Inchcolm and – best of all – the epic views of the world-famous Forth Bridge. When the day trippers leave, linger at Orocco Pier, a smart 17-room boutique bolthole on the waterfront. Book a room with a view of the bridge, savour a sundowner in the Antico Bar, feast on a seafood platter for two in the revamped Samphire Restaurant and enjoy a moonlit stroll with the bridge as a seriously romantic backdrop.

Best hotels in Glasgow

Best budget hotel: Clayton Hotel Glasgow City

Neighbourhood: Glasgow

This spacious hotel offers comfortable beds with King Koil mattresses and views over the River Clyde (Clayton Hotel Glasgow)

Forget the privations of hostel rooms or faceless budget chains; instead, recline in the deeply historic old Grade A-listed customs house right on the River Clyde in the heart of Glasgow. This is a 303-room, four-star hotel at three-star prices. Rooms are comfortable rather than luxurious, but spacious with comfy King Koil mattresses. Book a riverside room for views over the Clyde and towards the city’s Southside. The Custom House Bar & Restaurant is worth staying in for too – savour the signature Glaswegin cocktails at the swish bar before tucking into steaks and international comfort food.

Best hotels in Aberdeen

Best city break hotel: Malmaison Aberdeen

Neighbourhood: Aberdeen

Malmaison Aberdeen has sumptuous style with plenty of bars and restaurants nearby (Malmaison Aberdeen)

Aberdeen has its fair share of characterless hotels catering for its lifeblood fossil fuel industries, but the Malmaison’s offering is the finest of the boutique chain in Scotland. Housed in a grand grey granite building (Aberdeen is known as the Granite City), this 79-room hotel is ideally located for exploring the rapidly changing city. Stroll to the revamped Aberdeen Art Gallery and the new City Gardens; later watch the dolphins at Torry Battery. The city’s boisterous pubs and clubs buzz all around, with plenty of eating out options nearby. The hotel’s wine list is impressive, while Chez Mal serves spot-on steaks cooked on a Josper grill.

Best hotels in the Scottish Highlands

Best hotel for walkers: The Torridon

Neighbourhood: Wester Ross

Soak in a luxurious bath after hiking the epic Torridon mountains (The Torridon)

Daniel and Rohaise Rose-Bristow are legends of the Scottish hotel scene, seamlessly steering this Wester Ross escape for more than two decades. You could just sip whisky watching the Highland cows and the mist over Loch Torridon, but many come here to hike. The epic Torridon Mountains soar up over a kilometre high, offering life-affirming challenges. A comparatively easy option for experienced hikers is 903m-high Beinn Damh – yomp up straight from the hotel. Even gentler is a rare – for Scotland – waymarked mountain trail at Beinn Eighe, offering a taste of the mountains to less-experienced hikers. The hotel’s Torridon Outdoors team can lead the way. Stay in the plush main hotel or more hiker-friendly inn-style Stables.

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Best Isle of Skye hotels

Best hotel for foodies: Kinloch Lodge

Neighbourhood: Isle of Skye

Enjoy fresh local produced and foraged fare at this foodie hideaway (Kinloch Lodge)

Dining at whitewashed Kinloch Lodge, you’ll question the judgement of the Michelin inspectors who stole a well-deserved star a few years ago from this 17th-century hunting lodge run for five decades by the legendary foodie family the MacDonalds. Passion, authenticity and sound local produce ripple through this foodie hideaway, gloriously set on its own sea loch. Spend the morning foraging for wild herbs and chanterelles with the Skye Ghillie, then tuck into creative fine dining from head chef Jordan Webb. Kick off with Lochalsh crab toast rarebit, pickled cucumber and lemon gel; followed by Skye roe deer with turnip, and leek, spiced with a Kinloch wood-foraged bramble jus. Divine.

Best hotels in Dundee

Best boutique hotel: Hotel Indigo Dundee

Neighbourhood: Dundee

An old jute mill is transformed into a modern hub of activity and style (Hotel Indigo Dundee)

Dundee is a designated Unesco City of Design and is arguably the most dynamic Scottish city of this millennium – home to the first V&A design museum outside London, which is the centrepiece of the multi-million pound waterfront regeneration. The Hotel Indigo is symbolic of Dundee’s transformation – a boutique 120-room oasis brilliantly reborn from one of the old jute mills that used to power Dundee. Antique furnishings weave together with bright colours and striking fabrics – the latter the work of artist alumni from the city’s Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design.

Best hotels in Ayrshire

Best hotel for scenic views: Trump Turnberry

Neighbourhood: Ayrshire

Enjoy golf in a glorious setting looking towards the Isle of Arran (Trump Turnberry)

Whatever you think of its owner, the views at this unique 92-bedroom resort are impossible to argue with. This prime strip of Ayrshire coastline, site of Robert the Bruce’s ancestral castle, peers out across the Firth of Clyde towards the glowering Alpine-esque peaks of the Isle of Arran, with the hulking gannet-dotted rock granite rock sentinel of Ailsa Craig blinking back too. As the sun melts into the cobalt waters, the Turnberry Lighthouse kicks into action. Play a round on the famous golf courses to really make the most of the views, or just recline in one of the plush bars and restaurants in a window seat. Horse riding and hiking also reveal spirit-soaring views.

Best hotels in Loch Lomond

Best spa hotel: Cameron House

Neighbourhood: Loch Lomond

Relax surrounded by the waters of Loch Lomond or take a dip in the luxury spa (Cameron House)

Set on the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, this resort retreat is naturally relaxing with water, forests and hills everywhere you look. There is a swimming pool complex at the main hotel but, if you really want to chill, take the shuttle bus just up the road to the Cameron Spa. The outdoor infinity pool at this adults-only escape peers over the island-studded loch; inside, the 20m ‘tranquillity pool’ sports a hot tub with other thermal treats as part of the Hydro & Thermal Experience. Spa and beauty treatments use ESPA and Made for Life Organics products. The ‘Couples Suite’ is the setting for sheer decadence for two.

Best hotels in Perthshire

Best family hotel: Gleneagles

Neighbourhood: Perthshire

Gleneagles offers activities such as golf, swimming, archery and mini Land Rover driving to entertain families (Gleneagles)

It’s hard to think of a resort anywhere in the UK better set up for families than this glorious historic offering, which opened in 1924. They provide world-class kids’ clubs, a swimming pool with a bubbling outdoor section that delights wee ones, and all the usual child-distracting, parent-pleasing activities. Swirled in, too, is the chance for kids to help train a gun dog, have a bird of prey swoop in to literally eat out of their hands, shoot some arrows or drive a mini Land Rover. The hotel restaurants excel too, as adept at catering to babies as they are to teens. And then there are the world-renowned golf courses.

Read more of our Scotland hotel reviews:

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