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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Joel Porter

Best hotels in Cambodia — from serene private islands to foodie homestays

Song Raa is regarded as the best hotel in Cambodia - (Song Saa Private Island)

With stunning beaches, low-key charming towns, an underrated food scene, and the world-famous Angkor Wat, Cambodia is a country with a huge amount to offer.

Plus, it doesn’t suffer from the same crowds as its more visited neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam, so for those looking for an alternative Southeast Asia escape, Cambodia really ticks all the boxes.

From a homestay with one of the country’s best chefs, to a luxurious private island paradise, these are the best places to stay in Cambodia.

(Aman)

Amansara

Located in Siem Reap, about a 10-minute drive from Angkor Wat, Amansara is the ultimate luxury stay for temple adventures. The 24-suite hotel is one of Aman’s most understated, occupying an old Royal guest residence built by King Sihanouk in the 1960s, hidden behind an unmarked gate in the heart of town. Built in a classic new Khmer Modernist style, there’s still a residential feel to the sleek curved buildings that are set amongst peaceful grounds, lushly planted with trees and flowers. The original building houses around half the suites, dining room, library, and one of two outdoor pools, while an extension built in the same style houses the remaining suites, a gym, spa, and a shaded lap pool.

The rooms share the same vibe, with a minimal colour scheme of black lacquered furniture and bright, natural stone tiles, a freestanding tub, and courtyard garden, but the larger suites feature more spacious gardens with private plunge pools.

The striking centrepiece of Amansara is undoubtedly the circular Dining Room which opens onto two terraces – one overlooking green lawns and the other the main pool – and serves a menu of local Khmer dishes, western classics and even some excellent Indian curries courtesy of Exec Chef Sattar Seikh Rabul

Daily temple excursions are included with each stay, including a bleary eyed but magical 5am departure to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat. These are done in Amansara-branded luxury remorks (Cambodian tuk-tuks) and in true Aman style, pastries, coffee, fruit and blankets are all provided to soften the early start. After temple touring, breakfast can be taken in Amansara’s beautiful traditional Khmer stilted house in the village Srah Sang. Overlooking a nearby lake, it’s a peaceful setting to enjoy local Cambodian breakfast specialities before heading back to Amansara.

Rooms from $1,897.50 USD which includes daily breakfast and excursions. Book it here

Chef Nak Homestay (Chef Nak)

Chef Nak Homestay

Cambodian cuisine is not as well known or understood as that of Thailand or Vietnam, but one of the country’s best chefs, Chef Nak, is on a mission to change that. Just outside Phnom Penh in the village of Prek Loung, Chef Nak and her husband run one of Cambodia’s most unique experiences, offering private dining, cooking classes, and overnight stays in the grounds of their beautiful home.

The pair spent years sourcing materials from abandoned traditional Khmer wooden houses before painstakingly reconstructing them back home. One of the structures houses three beautiful bedrooms, each with a four-poster bed, outdoor shower and bathtub, and decorated with old Khmer antiques and artwork. The other, linked by a wooden footbridge over the pretty gardens and outdoor pool, is home to the kitchen and dining room, the scene for Chef Nak’s superb dinners that are as much and education on the country and its history, as they are delicious.

Nak has travelled the country extensively, gathering recipes from every corner in an effort to preserve and promote Cambodian cuisine (much of which was lost during the devastating civil war), and hearing her talk so passionately about the country’s food is a true inspiration. You can also just visit for lunch or dinner, but the overnight stay is really worth it – once you’re there, you won’t want to leave.

$250 per night for one room; $360 per night for two rooms; $400 per night for three rooms. To maintain an intimate and personalized experience, Chef Nak hosts only one group at a time. Bookings can be made via bookings@chefnak.com and www.chefnak.com

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor (Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor)

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor

With its Wes Anderson-esque exterior, the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor is one of Cambodia’s best-looking and most iconic hotels. Opened in 1932, the hotel is a French Art Deco classic and although it underwent a full modernising refurbishment in 2019, it’s a place that still wears its history proudly, from the vintage timber elevator to the photos of famous guests – including Charlie Chaplin and Jackie Kennedy – that adorn the walls.

The 119 rooms and suites blend French colonial features such as the wood panelled walls and western antique furniture, with more local touches like the custom-made Cambodian silks and traditional pitched ceilings. There are also polished hardwood floors, patterned rugs, swish ensuite bathrooms and private balconies that overlook the landscaped gardens.

Elsewhere, there’s a fantastic spa offering massages and beauty treatments as well as a hot tub, sauna and steam room, and a huge 35 metre outdoor pool. Food and drink are top notch too, whether it’s the epic spread of global dishes at breakfast, cocktails at the Elephant Bar, or refined tasting menus at the signature 1932 restaurant that offers a succession of Khmer dishes inspired by the hotel’s past. As you’d expect from Raffles, service is impeccable across the board, from the Royal doormen to the concierge team who can arrange everything from temple tours to bicycle hire.

Rooms from $360 per night including breakfast. Book it here

Rosewood Phnom Penh (Rosewood)

Rosewood Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh gets a bit of a bad rap but there’s more than enough to see and do here to make it a worthwhile stop on any Cambodia itinerary. The relatively new Rosewood is the pick of the five-star hotels here, occupying the upper floors of the Vattanac Capital Tower, the tallest skyscraper in the city. Rooms are all between floors 25 and 37 and are blessed with floor-to-ceiling windows, offering up some incredible views of the sprawling city and the Mekong River. There are 175 rooms, including 37 luxurious suites, but even the entry level rooms are spacious and comfortable, with marble-clad bathrooms, comfy king beds, smart contemporary furniture and all mod cons including TV, coffee station and mini bar, and electronic blinds manoeuvred by the bedside control panel.

Around the hotel, there’s an excellent spa, gym, and indoor pool, as well as several restaurants and bars, including the jaw dropping rooftop bar Sora, which juts out over the city on a cantilevered platform. It’s totally unique in the city and well worth stopping by for a drink at sunset. Other dining options include the Japanese Iza and Brasserie Louis, which offers up French and Khmer classics. At breakfast there’s an incredible spread of inhouse baked pastries, dim sum, traditional Cambodian noodle soup, as well as all manner of eggs, fruit, and pancakes.

Rooms from $450 per night including breakfast. Book it here

Royal Sands Koh Rong (Royal Sands Koh Rong)

Royal Sands Koh Rong

Set on the most perfect patch of the most stunning beach in all of Cambodia, Royal Sands really can’t be beaten if idyllic white sand and crystal-clear warm water is at the top of your agenda. The hotel is located on Five Mile Beach on the quiet east side of Koh Rong, Cambodia’s largest island, a stretch that is remarkably largely untouched – for now. There are plans for development on the island by the same company that owns Royal Sands, including an airport and golf courses, but for now it is blissfully sparse. The warm shallow sea is almost like a giant swimming pool it’s so calm and clear, and the beach is kept private for hotel guests so it’s easy to find your own quiet spot.

Accommodation is in one of the 67 whitewashed villas that are dotted around the property. While some have their own private pools, the entry level rooms are more than enough for most travellers, given that the sea is mere seconds away. There’s also a large communal pool that doesn’t get used that much. Rooms are bright, cool, and contemporary with lots of space, traditional Khmer rattan ceilings, a day bed, large bathroom and outdoor shower. The hotel has two great restaurants, the appropriately named Chill, which is the more relaxed of the two and is positioned right on the beach, with a menu of fresh noodles, salads and curries; and the Ocean restaurant which is more upscale and serves Khmer specialities as well as solid western options. Around the hotel, there’s also a spa, gym, and yoga salon, and the activity centre is able to arrange excursions across the island, from bike rides to boat tours and diving.

Rooms from $400 in low season and $770 in high season, including breakfast. Book it here

Song Saa Private Iskand (Song Saa Private Iskand)

Song Saa Private Island

For those that want to really get away from it all, Song Saa is a private island paradise that’s widely regarded as one of the best hotels in Cambodia, if not the world. Set on two tiny little islands linked by a wooden footbridge, Song Saa was a pioneer for ethical sustainable tourism in the country when it opened in 2012, effortlessly blending five-star luxury with a strong commitment to its natural habitat and its people. Not only did they create a protected marine reserve around the island, but they have also set up a permanent charitable foundation that works with local communities on education and conservation projects.

One of the islands houses the resort itself: 24 villas which come in three different categories – jungle villa, sea view villa, and Maldives-style overwater villa – plus an overwater restaurant, huge infinity pool, spa and a chef’s garden. The other island is more of a place to take an easy hike around, spot some wildlife, and maybe stop by the outdoor gym in the middle of the jungle. The villas are all very luxurious, and come with a plunge pool, outdoor terrace, day beds, huge four poster bed, rainforest shower (both indoor and outdoor) and bathtub.

Despite the island’s small size there’s so much to do, from the on-site dive and water sports centre to morning yoga on the pool deck, and trips to the local village on Koh Rong. There’s also first-class food and drink, both at the gorgeous Vista restaurant and bar that juts out over the sea on wooden stilts, and the breezier Driftwood that has tables plonked directly into the sand and serves a casual menu of pizza and fresh seafood. Perhaps the best thing about Song Saa is however, the real sense of privacy it offers – running into other guests is so rare, it’s easy to imagine the island is just for you.

From $1024 per night in a Jungle 1 Bedroom Villa including breakfast. Book it here

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