If you have hooded eyes, you may have been told that there are all sorts of eye make-up no-go zones.
But the shape of your eyes need not be a limitation - they just require a different approach. “Applying make-up on hooded eyes can be tricky because there’s excess skin that hangs from the brow bone down to the lash line, which covers the eyelid crease,” explains Dr Sabrina Shah-Desai, a Harley Street oculoplastic surgeon. “Some people are born with this eye shape, but it can also develop over time due to ageing, lifestyle factors or health conditions.”
Hooded eyes haven’t stopped A-listers like Jennifer Lawrence, Taylor Swift and Blake Lively from rocking stunning eye make-up looks.
If you’ve been avoiding eyeshadow or struggling with eyeliner, it’s time to adapt your approach. “Hooded eyes are not a ‘problem’ - it’s just another eye shape that is as beautiful as any other,” says celebrity make-up artist Lisa Eldridge, whose hooded eye clients include Keira Knightley, Kate Winslet and Claudia Schiffer. “With the right products, placement and technique, you can beautifully enhance and define your eyes,” she adds.
Here are Lisa Eldridge’s top tips on picking and applying make-up to hooded eyes.
What are the main challenges for people with hooded eyes?
“Eye make-up may transfer, smudge or disappear into the crease due to the lid’s natural fold and eyeshadow can also seem less visible when the eyes are open,” says Eldridge.
How should someone with hooded eyes approach eyeshadow application to avoid it disappearing?
“My top tip is to look straight ahead into the mirror, whilst applying eye makeup, which allows you to create the look of a more defined, visible socket line,” shares Eldridge.
“Choose a matte eyeshadow that’s deeper than the natural shadow cast by your features to create a socket line. Looking straight ahead with a relaxed brow, apply the colour up just enough to frame your eye, ensuring the definition is visible when you're done. Make sure you blend well. Don’t go too high - you still want to create space to accentuate the brow bone.”
Are there any eyeshadow formulas or textures that work best for hooded eyes?
“Your eye shape doesn’t necessarily dictate what formulas or textures will work best, but a high-performance eyeshadow will give you that superior level of blendability, so you can create a soft, flattering cloud of colour,” says Eldridge. “If you have an oily lid and a hooded eye, you may get a bit more transfer with things like mascara and liner.”
To prevent this, she recommends using a base to help lock everything in place. “Using a primer first will ensure that your eye makeup stays put throughout the day.”
Can those with hooded eyes wear liquid eyeliner?
“Absolutely - If you’re low on lid space or have a hooded eye, use an ultra-fine liquid eyeliner tip,” says Eldridge. “Pick one with a tapered or tiny point, as this will give you that definition right at the lash line.”
A thick, heavy liner can sometimes look too harsh, especially if there’s no other makeup on the lid to balance it out. Eldridge suggests incorporating some subtle shading. “Even something as simple as a wash of bronzer across the lid can add dimension and prevent the liner from appearing too stark.”
How can someone with hooded eyes make their lashes look fuller?
Maximising lash volume is key to opening up hooded eyes. The right technique can make a difference. "Use an eyelash curler first, then focus on applying mascara at the roots,” advises Eldridge. “Press the wand right into the roots of the lashes, hold it there and slowly massage back and forth for as long as you can. Then lightly zig-zag the wand outward to the tips. Repeat this process a few times and finish by gliding through the tips."
Are there any tips to enhance the shape of hooded eyes?
Eldridge says: “Hooded eyes look lovely with some definition underneath, so I like to enhance the lower lash line with a soft smudge of colour. Keep it soft, almost like a smokey shadow, as this area is more visible. Add some mascara to the lower lashes, and make the most of your eye shape by dabbing highlighter to the inner corners.”
Best eye make-up for hooded eyes at a glance
Morphe Nude Ambition Artistry Palette
Best: overall
Whether you're after a soft, everyday wash of colour or a statement smokey eye, this palette has you covered. Packed with 18 flattering neutrals - from warm caramels to rich mochas and soft champagne hues - it's designed to suit every skin tone.
Make-up artists swear by matte formulas for creating depth on hooded eyes. The mix of ultra-pigmented matte and shimmery colours can be used to sculpt, define and brighten in all the right places.
Sweep the deeper matte tones into the socket for instant definition, then tap the subtle shimmers onto the centre of the lids or inner corners to open up the eyes.
Buy now £14.00, LookFantastic
NARS Pro Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
Best for: longer-lasting eye make-up
The fold in hooded eyes can often cause pigment to transfer where you don’t want it, and that’s where a good eye primer comes in, keeping makeup firmly in place.
A staple in many make-up artists’ kits, this lightweight, cream formula helps create an even canvas, so eyeshadow applies smoothly. It grips pigment into place and prevents smudging and fading. The added mineral powders and polymers intensify colour payoff, giving you more vibrant results.
Plus, it works with all types of eyeshadow formulas, including cream and powder. It also offers skincare perks thanks to the added deep sea extract and antioxidant-rich rice extract, which condition the lids.
Buy now £23.00, Cult Beauty
Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner
Best for: lining the eyes
This waterproof eyeliner ticks all the boxes: it’s heavily pigmented, smooth to apply and long-wearing.
The creamy texture glides on without dragging, making it perfect for both subtle definition or a smokey eye look. If eyeshadow feels like a faff on hooded lids, this pencil format is a great alternative. It can be applied along the upper and lower lash lines, waterline and even scribbled across the lids.
The built-in smudger is brilliant for blending and easy touch-ups on the go. Enriched with vitamin E and chamomile extract, it feels comfortable on the skin.
There are 19 wearable shades to pick from and finishes range from matte to shimmery, so there’s plenty of choice for all types of eye looks.
Buy now £32.00, Selfridges
Lisa Eldridge Kitten Flick Liquid Eyeliner
Best for: kitten flicks
Liquid liner can be a challenge for hooded eyes as it can smudge, transfer or disappear into the crease. Since there is limited eyelid space, strategic placement is key. This liquid liner makes flicks and wings effortless due to its ultra-fine felt-tip applicator that offers total control.
Rather than risking one shaky line, you can build the flick gradually with small, soft strokes, staying close to the lash line. It also features ultra-flow ink technology which glides smoothly over eyeshadow, leaving behind a silky matte finish that holds for several hours.
Buy now £25.00, Space NK
Zoeva Ooh La Lash Curler
Best for: curling the eyelashes
A good eyelash curler works wonders to create beautifully lifted lashes. With a broad curve and flexible silicone pad, this sleek curler grabs every lash, including those tricky outer corners for a more wide-eyed effect.
Unlike traditional curlers that can pinch, tug or miss sections, this well-designed option hugs the lash line comfortably to curl, lift and volumise. Whether you have short, long or straight lashes, you can use this to get a fabulous fluttery finish.
It also comes with two additional silicone pads for long-lasting use.
Buy now £16.00, Zoeva
Merit Eyeshadow Brush No.2
Best for: eyeshadow application
This double-ended brush features a tapered end that places colour precisely along the lash line or into the crease for added depth, while the fluffy side softens and diffuses, making blending a breeze.
Whether you’re creating a cut crease or sweeping on a sheer wash of colour, this brush is a super multitasker. Made with soft vegan bristles, it picks up just the right amount of product and works beautifully with both cream and powder formulas, giving a professional-looking finish.
Buy now £17.00, Merit
Charlotte Tilbury Super Nudes Liner Duo
Best for: making small eyes appear bigger
Whether you’re going for a defined look or something softer, Charlotte Tilbury’s eyeliner duo makes it easy to achieve a striking finish with minimal effort.
One side has a rich black-brown shade that is ideal for adding depth along the lash line, while the other side features a soft nude shade that brightens the waterline and opens up the eyes. If you have small, hooded eyes, the nude liner is guaranteed to make them appear larger and more awake. The creamy formula applies with ease, thanks to a blend of emollient oils and waxes, though it does require frequent reapplication.
Buy now £25.00, Charlotte Tilbury
Vieve Full Lash FL1 Everyday Full Lash
Best for: adding length to the lashes
Some make-up artists recommend using false eyelashes to open up and lift hooded eyes, but choosing the wrong style can make them look smaller. Avoid this by picking lashes that are longer in the centre for a lifted effect, or go for shorter styles if you prefer a more natural finish.
These reusable lashes are designed to suit any eye shape, with strategically placed longer hairs in the middle to create an open-eyed look. Made from lightweight vegan synthetic fibres, they won’t weigh down the lids and they feature a thin, flexible band that blends seamlessly with the natural lash line.
Since they are not pre-glued, you’ll need to pick up a separate lash adhesive, which is easily found in most pharmacies.
Buy now £13.00, Vieve
Eyebrowqueen Highlighter
Best for: creating a lifted eye look
Designed by celebrity beauty expert Nilam Holmes, this versatile highlighter has a creamy, blendable formula that is perfect for adding subtle radiance wherever you need it.
For hooded eye shapes, swipe it along the arch of the brow bone to lift and define. The precision tip is perfect for applying along the waterline to instantly open up your peepers, and it can also be dabbed onto the inner corners to make your eye makeup pop. The non-shimmery finish blends beautifully with the fingers for a natural glow, or use a brush for a more polished look.
Available in four shades, it’s designed to flatter all skin tones.
Buy now £18.00, Eyebrowqueen
Blink Ultra Slim Brow Definer
Best for: defining the brows
No eyes are complete without well-groomed brows. This retractable pencil features an ultra-fine, micro-nib tip to sketch in precise, hair-like strokes for added structure and lift. The formula is enriched with antioxidants and vitamins E and C, to nourish brow hairs. It also comes with a handy, built-in spoolie brush to tame hairs perfectly in place.
The waterproof and smudge-proof formula stays in place all day, with just enough colour deposit to create a natural, well-defined look.
Choose from three shades to complement blonde, light and dark brown hair.
Buy now £22.00, Blink
No7 Pro Artist That’s A Wrap Tubing Mascara
Best for: smudge-proof eyelashes
For those with hooded eyes, finding a mascara that stays put without transferring onto the brow bone is the holy grail.
This tubing formula does just that, as well as delivering buildable length and separation. It uses quick-drying, film-forming technology to create tubes that wrap around each lash, delivering clump-free definition and lift, without smudging. The brush is equally impressive, reaching even the tiniest lashes to create a fanned-out look.
When it’s time to remove it, the micro-tubes slide off easily with a cotton pad and warm water.
Available in brown and black.
Buy now £12.57, No7 Beauty
