There has been a shift in the world of aesthetic treatments in recent years. Instead of intrusive fillers and facial adjustments, there is a move towards healthy skin as the ultimate way to maintain a youthful appearance.
The use of exosomes is leading the charge in this. The nano-sized particles have been dubbed the next evolution in regenerative aesthetics – notably “their extraordinary ability to repair and regenerate skin tissue”, according to Aesthetic Specialist Corina Milahache.
Naturally occurring, the biological messengers work at a cellular level to signal regeneration – which means they are crucial in wound healing, combating skin stress and calming inflammation.
If you like your skincare as science-focused as it gets, exosomes are something that you should have firmly on your radar.
While still more commonly used in aesthetic treatments, innovative brands are working out how to incorporate them in topical daily products effectively, and they are set to be the next big thing.
But before we delve into the ways you can slip them into your current skincare routine, we reached out to the experts - Aesthetic Specialist and founder of Ace Skin Health, Corina Milahache and Aesthetic and Regenerative Doctor Dr Miriam Adebibe - to find out more.
What are exosomes?
“Exosomes are small (nanosized) extracellular vesicles that are naturally secreted by cells”, Milahache explains. “They play a crucial role in cell-to-cell communication by transporting proteins, lipids and genetic material (RNA and DNA) between cells”.
Dr Adebibe adds, “In skincare, we use exosomes that are derived from stem cells to encourage skin repair and regeneration. They’re a bit like couriers delivering essential information to skin cells, triggering healing processes, promoting collagen production, and reducing inflammation”.
Why use exosomes in skincare?
Dr Adebibe breaks it down, “Exosomes are incredibly effective at encouraging the skin to repair itself, which is why they are becoming such a popular anti-ageing treatment. They smooth fine lines, reduce pigmentation, and help restore a youthful glow”.
Who should use exosomes in skincare?
Milahache says, “They reduce inflammation and are therefore effective in treating rosacea, sensitivity and redness”. What’s more, you can use for “skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines and uneven texture”, she adds. Before concluding, “By delivering growth factors, peptides, cytokines and other bioactive molecules directly to skin cells, exosomes help improve overall skin health”.
Are exosomes in skincare effective?
The Aesthetic and Regenerative Doctor stresses that “When it comes to introducing exosomes into a skincare routine to administer topically, it’s important to note that the results won’t be as effective as in-clinic exosome treatments. This is because with skincare, the exosomes only reach the top layer of the dermis and are likely to be in lower concentrations”.
How to apply exosomes
She continues, “For best results, in clinic treatments use exosomes of high quality and quantity, placing them on the skin surface in the form of a serum and then driving them deeper into the dermis using a micro-needling device”.
How are exosomes made?
It’s all wonderfully scientific. Dr Adebibe reveals, “Synthetic exosomes (exosome-mimetics) are engineered to mimic the structure and function of naturally occurring exosomes, which are derived from plant, animal or human origins.
“The exosomes can be loaded with certain ingredients to target specific conditions, like skin laxity, rosacea, and even hair loss, to improve treatment outcomes. Exosomes loaded with growth factors can promote collagen production while those loaded with antioxidants can protect skin from oxidative stress, leading to premature ageing”.
Shop the best skincare products below containing exosomes
DIOR Capture Le Sérum
Regenerative medicine has inspired Dior to create the Capture Le Sérum - and it comes after 40 years of research. The skincare product harnesses the power of a patented exo-liposome double vectorisation system to rejuvenate the complexion and combat fine lines and wrinkles.
Apply AM or PM to both the face and neck, and it has a tightening effect, leaving the skin smooth and firm. The composition is 97 per cent natural ingredients.
Buy now £111.35, Boots
INKEY Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex
Always at the forefront of innovation, it comes as no surprise that The INKEY List is one of the first skincare brands to add exosomes into its range – and in the label’s signature style, it does so at an affordable price point. The Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex is a high-performance serum that was created to revive the skin in just two weeks.
In its formula, there are three million plant-derived exosomes, which, when paired with prickly pear extract, kollaren and hyaluronic acid, will impart long-lasting hydration. Slip it into your routine morning and night.
Buy now £15.95, Amazon
Medik8 C-Tetra Advanced
A new addition to the Medik8 collection, C-Tetra Advanced is about high-wattage luminosity. The brand has created a vitamin C-based creamy gel-serum for potent antioxidant protection. It has set the main ingredient with acetyl zingerone, selected for its ability to supercharge the effects of the ingredient.
But there is also a very interesting additional element thrown into the mix: phyto exosomes. This extract will calm and strengthen the skin barrier thanks to the proteins, lipids and messenger molecules that it contains. In test, all participants saw brighter skin after just a week of application as well as a minimisation of wrinkles and smoother skin texture.
Buy now £69.00, Medik8
