The ancient art of enamelling has undergone quite a modern makeover in recent years.
Previously confined to the realms of high luxury, enamel jewellery has long been prized for its kaleidoscopic nature. Indeed, the process of enamelling involves fusing coloured glass to a metal surface, meaning that the opportunities for adding splashes of colour and creating detailed, miniature scenes on necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings are endless.
What’s more, the metal onto which the coloured glass is fused and set can vary in preciousness, which is one of the many reasons there’s such a broad price range when it comes to this particular craft nowadays. Others include the level of detail involved, whether the piece is hand-enamelled and designed, and whether other precious stones have been utilised to adorn the piece.
Britannica tells us that the origins of enamelling remain unclear. Though there’s ancient archaeological evidence that suggests glass was being made from the third millennium BCE in western Asia, most evidence points to glass enamelling being pioneered sometime after the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BCE. The Byzantine Empire (330 AD to 1453 AD) witnessed the earliest dramatic development in enamelling, which was practised mainly with pure gold.
But it was the 19th century which saw a true reinvigoration of the lost art thanks to Peter Carl Fabergé and his brother, Agathon. The brothers, upon inheriting their father’s rather ordinary jewellery business, pioneered the concept of the artist-jeweller thanks to their shared love for colour through both precious stones and enamelling.
According to Dreweatts, it was through the technique of Cloisonné enamelling, whereby thin metal strips were used to outline designs on a metal surface and the resulting gaps were intricately enamelled, in which Fabergé’s elite craftsmanship was best showcased.
By the turn of the century, Fabergé had become the zenith of luxury, adored for its magisterial craftsmanship and unique designs. In 1910, Faberge was awarded the title of Court Jeweller to the Imperial Court, having already supplied jewels to the cabinet and court of the Tsars (most notably Tsar Nicholas II) in the decades prior. Best known for their marvellous Easter eggs, the icons of Faberge were initially commissioned by Tsar Alexander III as a gift for his wife.
Fast-forward to the present day, and enamelling is still a remarkably popular technique in modern jewellery. With jewellery trends leaning towards the maximalist and hedonistic, enthusiasts are increasingly looking for colourful, expressive and luxurious designs for everyday wear. We’ve got you covered with our top picks below.
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Les Néréides Lemon and White Flower Sleeper Earrings
Add some zest to your next summer dress-focused ensemble with this pair of glorious lemon drop earrings from the enamel experts over at Parisian-born Les Néréides. Featuring hand-enamelled white blossoms and gilded, hand-enamelled brass, these are earrings which practically define high-end costume jewellery.
Buy now £118.00, Les Néréides
Les Néréides Mini ballerina and pink bow adjustable ring
So nice we had to include them twice. We simply adore this mini ballerina and pink bow adjustable ring, which is the result of a wonderful collaboration between Les Néréides and the Opéra National de Paris.
Buy now £72.00, Les Néréides
Selenichast Fruit Basket Enamel Bracelet
Another exemplary addition to the fruity jewellery trend, this rather heavyweight bracelet contains a veritable tropical fruit basket worth of goodies, including cherry, orange, strawberry, dragon fruit, pomegranate, watermelon and more.
Buy now £79.00, Selenichast
Fable England Flower Huggie Earrings
Fable England is home to a charming (if you’ll pardon the pun) array of affordable enamel jewels ranging from collaborative collections to cohesive earring, bracelet and necklace sets. We’re big fans, for instance, of the forget-me-not series, which is home to the above pair of delicate enamel huggie hoops.
Buy now £28.00, Fable England
Laura Vann 18ct Gold-Plated Vermeil Silver Bridget Black Enamel T-Bar Pendant Necklace
T-bar necklaces are endlessly chic and timeless. Laura Vann’s take on the trend is no exception, featuring statement black enamel which contrasts beautifully with the white topaz and green cubic zirconia detailing.
Buy now £310.00, Liberty
Fabergé Guilloché Enamel Egg Drop Earrings
We’d be remiss not to include an option from the ever iconic and perennially en vogue Fabergé. These breathtaking heritage yellow gold diamond and turquoise Guilloché Enamel Egg Drop Earrings feature the brand’s signature, delicate enamelling and hand-engraving (guilloché combines mechanical engraving and translucent enamels to create surface embellishment). Getting married or know someone who is? This is as perfect as an heirloom “something blue” gets.
Buy now £10800.00, Fabergé
Missoma Enamel & Stone Dome Statement Ring
Bringing a splash of colour to the chunky ring trend, Missoma’s royal blue dome ring is the perfect accompaniment to a simple blue jeans and white t-shirt look.
Buy now £119.00, Missoma
Kenneth Jay Lane Gold-Plated Crystal-Embellished Enamel Hoop Earrings
It doesn’t get any more classic than simple, black enamel. These hoop earrings by Kenneth Jay Lane also feature some fun, crystal-embellished details and a high-polish finish.
Buy now £80.00, Liberty
Cece Jewellery 18ct Gold The Rose and Diamond Signet Ring
Cece Jewellery’s eponymous founder is an art historian turned jeweller who specialises in hand-painted enamel. The brand’s designs, not much unlike Fabergé, are inspired by ancient stories and fairytales. This delicate rose-adorned piece features an oval-shaped face, finely engraved leaves and four star-set white diamonds.
Buy now £3000.00, Liberty
