Feb. 26--Spring's not only time to spruce up the house, it's time to clean out the refrigerator. All those once-glam but now-moldy (and not in a good way) cheeses; the leftovers you promised to use up but never did. The ketchup packets ... it's time to let them go. Get some inspiration for a fridge reorg -- and a little food porn action -- by peeking into the home refrigerators of some of the most famous European chefs.
Carrie Solomon and Adrian Moore did just that in their new book, "Inside Chefs' Fridges, Europe" (Taschen, $49.99). Here, in beautiful full-color photos are the home refrigerators of such world-renowned chefs as Fergus Henderson, Pierre Herme, and Yotam Ottolenghi.
"A few years ago we decided to do the chef book and were looking for a way to tie together Europe's best chefs," Moore explains. "The idea of the fridge as a vehicle to do this sort of came to me, bleary-eyed and barefoot in my kitchen one morning when I opened the door of mine."
The two are now exploring the idea of follow up volumes. "We want to discover the world," writes Moore, assistant chief concierge at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Paris. Solomon is an award-winning culinary photographer based in Paris. The two answered questions via e-mail. An edited selection of their responses follow:
Q: Did you get any really good fridge organization tips from the chefs you interviewed?
Adrian Moore: As far as I can see, not really. From messy to super organized they all arranged their fridge contents as they saw fit. I don't think many of them heeded any specific fridge hygiene rules. You can see the personalities at play though. Younger, adventurous chef: More take out, beer and dubious organic matter. Family chef: Stocked shelves (jam packed) for fear of family starving. High-end Michelin-starred chef: Interesting juxtapositions of high- and low-end foods, and minimalist organization, almost arty-looking fridges in some cases.
Q: What surprised you most about the chefs' refrigerators?
Carrie Solomon: We found a couple pretty wild (i.e. endangered species) and even illicit items in a few of the chefs fridges: absinthe leaves, poisonous mushrooms, ortolans. ... But mostly I was surprised that most chefs have pretty standard fridges. A couple of chefs had even downright small, under the counter models. Although a few chefs were definitely big spenders with swanky Sub-Zeros and European luxury brands.
Q: Was there an element or ingredient common to all refrigerators?
Moore: Lots of Asian condiments, hot sauces. Industrial ketchup, French mustard, French cheeses. And jam, lots of jam.
Q: Did messy types have messy fridges and neatniks organized refrigerators?
Solomon: This did hold true. Chefs who practice a certain type of Michelin star cooking tended to have Type A organized fridges while those who kind of fly by the seat of their pants were more likely to have a rather messy hodge podge kind of fridge.
Q: Were the chefs surprised by what your photos captured?
Solomon: Some of them thought it was really odd when I would photograph a close-up of a condiment shelf and felt pushed to explain the origins of each product -- as they would do in their restaurants. Sometimes it was pretty banal and other times there were good stories about rare soy sauces or why they give their kids horse milk.
wdaley@tribpub.com
Chicken tagine with figs and almonds
Makes: 6 to 8 servings
Now that you've faced the fridge, it's time to cook. Chef Fatema Hal of Le Mansouria, a Moroccan restaurant in Paris, shares this recipe in "Inside Chefs' Fridges, Europe."
8 tablespoons olive oil, divided
3 pounds chicken, preferably free-range, broken down into pieces
3 small onions, minced
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
5 saffron threads
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 bunch coriander (cilantro), chopped
3 cups plus 3 tablespoons water, divided
1.1 pounds dried figs
6.6 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
7 tablespoons butter
3 1/2 ounces blanched almonds
.35 ounces sesame seeds
1 dried rose bud (for serving)
1. Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add chicken pieces, onion, garlic, ginger, saffron, salt and coriander (cilantro). Add 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons water and cook 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. While the chicken is cooking, prepare figs and almonds. Place figs, 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon water, sugar, cinnamon, and butter in small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, and simmer 20 minutes or until sauce has reduced and has a honey-like consistency. Slice figs. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small skillet and toast the almonds. Remove the almonds and let cool.
3. Remove chicken from skillet, reserving broth. Heat remaining olive oil in a large skillet, and brown chicken parts, working in batches if necessary. Place on a large serving dish, and spoon broth over. Top chicken with sliced figs, toasted almonds and sesame seeds. Place rose decoratively in the center of the dish.
