I only recently discovered that Estée Lauder’s Double Wear – Britain’s bestselling foundation – is such a huge seller that it could be classified as an entire brand in itself. Though very good at its job, and extremely long-lasting (its lesser-known quality), it did make me stop and speculate as to how many of its consumers genuinely have such noticeable acne and pigmentation that they feel the need to cover their entire face in heavy makeup. This is my reservation with full-coverage foundation in general: in covering the entire complexion – the good and the more problematic – it throws the baby out with the bathwater.
I mostly opt for something a tad lighter, to allow the nicer bits to show through, then focus on standout areas by dabbing on concealer. (I speak as someone with several large brown blotches that arrived in pregnancy and never left. For serious cover-ups, like birthmarks, tattoos or heavy scarring, try specialist products by Keromask and Dermablend.)
That said, I do accept that it’s sometimes fun to pair strong, smoky eyes with an entirely flawless base, and that some women do just feel better with a face full of foundation. Charlotte Tilbury’s new Magic Foundation is a few coverage levels up from her original (and, I think, excellent) Light Wonder. It covers most things in one layer (I had to pat extra over dark patches when testing), feels comfortable and, crucially, resembles lovely skin, not an Elastoplast. The colour range is good, too (I’m a 3).
Aiming to do the same thing is Clinique’s new Beyond Perfecting Foundation & Concealer. The small wand applicator is great here, because it allows the foundation to be blended only where needed, without masking the whole face. I like it a lot, but I still think that in terms of coverage, Clinique’s older Even Better Makeup is more comprehensive and natural-looking.
It’s important to remember that full-coverage foundation is only half the battle – proper application increases its camouflage capabilities enormously. I smooth on the foundation with my fingertips, then buff lightly with a duo-fibre brush (Mac, Zoeva and Real Techniques make them), to blend invisibly without wiping away. Dab extra over any trouble spots still peeking through, then dust with face powder to ensure your hard work isn’t undone by lunchtime.
