For lovers of good food and fine wine, the city of Bordeaux and its surrounding region is a must-visit and there’s no better time to indulge in its many assets than during the autumn wine harvest, when the searing heat of the summer has abated. The months of September and October bring perfect temperatures for strolling through the elegant streets between Bordeaux’s Unesco-listed architecture, with its pale limestone mansions, pausing for a while in pavement cafes or for a glass in the welcoming wine bars. Beyond the city limits, there are enchanting wineries to discover and all are within easy reach by bike, or a short drive from the city by car, tram or bus.
Any stay in Bordeaux would not be complete without visiting La Cité du Vin. This extraordinary visitor centre is set in an architecturally striking structure that resembles the swirl of wine in a glass and its exhibits tell myriad stories related to wine, from its creation to its history, its myths and romance. Its current tasting experience, titled Via Sensoria, runs until 2 November and takes visitors on a journey through its artistic installations that play to all the senses. The immersive journey takes you through four pavilions, each representing a different season and the experience is punctuated by the tasting of four wines (or non-alcoholic drinks) from different regions of the world, such as a red wine made from the saperavi grape from Georgia to represent autumn. Between this, and the rest of the exhibits at the Cité du Vin, it promises to be an enchanting day out.
Visit Via Sensoria at La Cité du Vin for an immersive tasting experience. Photograph: DBY-Photographie/Cité du Vin/GEDEON Programmes/Atelier Sylvain Roca
Later, visit the city’s wine bars and restaurants; many of them serve excellent wines by the glass, allowing you to indulge in a wide variety of the region’s best blends and appellations, be they red, white, rosé or dessert wines, such as the delectable sauternes.
A 45-minute drive north-east of Bordeaux takes you to the Château Prieuré Marquet, a 16th-century chateau that basks in the warm climate that so benefits its 13 hectares of vineyards. Pay a visit to taste its wine, have a picnic between the vines or go horse-riding through the estate. There are six guest rooms, too, should you want to linger a while; it’s worth it for the superb Prieuré Marquet restaurant, where talented chefs weave together the flavours of seasonal, locally grown ingredients brought daily from the markets close to the estate.
Château Prieuré Marquet, a 16th-century chateau with 13 hectares of vineyards and home to Prieuré Marquet restaurant; fly over the the Libournais wine region in a gyrocopter
Just south, you can admire the Libournais wine region, that encompasses Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, from a different perspective thanks to a gyrocopter. This remarkable aircraft is as agile as a helicopter but has the freedom of an aeroplane and so, after taking off from the local aerodrome, you will soar above the stunning landscape spotting world-renowned vineyards, lush forests, majestic chateaux and winding rivers from the sky.
While wine is the best-known hero product of Saint-Émilion, save some time to discover the medieval town’s gastronomic scene. The Histoires Gourmandes tour helps you find the town’s specialities, such as its own kind of macaron. Knowledgable guides will recount anecdotes and historical insights, guide you in tastings, as well as show you the town’s best viewpoints of the surrounding vineyards. For a further gastronomic foray in Saint-Émilion, there are the cookery classes at the nearby Château Ambe Tour Pourret. With their “I cook at the chateau” experience, you become chef for a day at your very own workstation with a hob and preparation area. Through the course of the experience, you will learn how to prepare a typically French menu using regional and seasonal products, before sitting down to enjoy it with specially paired wines produced by the chateau.
Enjoy Saint-Emilion’s gastronomic scene; become a chef for a day at Château Ambe Tour Pourret. Photographs: Artur Debat/Getty Images; Getty Images; P Maltete
And finally, a trip to the region around Bordeaux would not be complete without venturing north to the Gironde estuary, where an island in the river is an oasis with special appeal for food-lovers. Take a commented cruise to the Île de Patiras, a three-mile-long almond-shaped island, from Pauillac or Blaye and, on arrival, you can relax over a gourmet lunch at Le Refuge de Patiras, with dishes made from organic ingredients sourced from small, local producers and served with wine. The chefs’ inspiration is the island itself; in days gone by, its lighthouse guided ships returning from faraway lands laden with spices and exotic produce and so, with this in mind, they use the island’s own aromatic plants and fruits in their dishes. After lunch, you take a walk around the island to the lighthouse, or play games in the gardens or simply recline in a lounger until you’re ready to return by boat.
You’ll find local produce and organic ingredients at Le Refuge de Patiras. Photographs: L’agence APPA; PR; Stocksy United
Bordeaux: where to eat, sleep and visit
Eat …
Zephirine, Bordeaux
Take a table in the relaxed dining room of Zephirine, where chef Romain Corbière serves an ever-changing, vegetable-forward menu that reflects the seasonal produce at the market.
Sleep …
Château Fage La Maison des Vignes, Bordeaux/Saint-Émilion
Set amid the vineyards between Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion, this luxurious hotel has a sun-drenched swimming pool, a “bistronomy”-style restaurant and makes an ideal base for experiencing the surrounding vineyards.
Don’t miss …
Fête des vendanges, Saint-Émilion, 11-12 October
Every year in October, this festival celebrates all things vinous with local wine chateaux inviting visitors through their doors for a range of activities that focus on the area’s wine heritage and the grands crus classés of Saint-Émilion.
If you’d like to discover more on Bordeaux and why sailing to France with Brittany Ferries is the best way to start your holiday, then visit brittany-ferries.co.uk. Set sail from Portsmouth, Poole or Plymouth and enjoy up to seven days in France from just £206, based on a car and two passengers
