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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle
SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS

BBCO's baked-in a la carte

Bangkok Baking Company (BBCO), JW Marriott Bangkok's upscale street-side bakery, is ranked in the top 10 Bangkok restaurants by TripAdvisor.com pundits. At one point, it was no. 1.

How did it achieve such popular pre-eminence in a town now deemed deserving of Michelin stars? Regular patrons are the least surprised. Just mention the name and they gush. But up to a matter of months ago, they only had the undeniably excellent Danish, muffins, brownies, gateaux, sandwiches, salads, and Chef Gee's incredible 3D-theme cakes to wax lyrical about.

Since July, however, it's come closer to a restaurant proper with the introduction of an a la carte menu.

Coinciding with the turbo-charging, the décor, never dowdy despite its longevity, was spruced up with cheery fabrics, a lick of paint, and a glass lift that acts like a people-carrying dumb waiter surfacing the new dishes from the basement kitchen.

With its foliage-bordered, burgundy parasol-shaded patio scoping the area's exotic fauna from a discrete distance, and the cosy patisserie indoors, BBCO's is conveniently configured. The new menu (in Thai and English), under the creative direction of Executive Chef Kevin Thompson, makes it more so.

All-day breakfast options range Pancakes to Muesli, Congee to crumpets, and Eggs Benedict to Larb Kai Baked Egg. There are 15 Thai dishes, from Tom Yum Goong (360) to Phad Thai (360) which we could not fault. The wok-fried noodle, prawn bean curd, egg and bean sprouts omelette is set with four tiger prawns sautéed in tamarind sauce. Rough-ground peanut adds crunch to the layers of flavours.

Gourmet salads include Nicoise Tuna (300), starring large chunks of seared tuna, with accompanying green beans, potato, tomato, onion, olives, and leaves bound by a piquant mustard-oil vinaigrette. A warm poached egg topped with silver skin anchovy  and rear-view mirror-like slices of olive ciabatta toast bring texture and flavour contrasts to a composition both healthy and delicious.

Burgers and sandwiches include an ingenious Teriyaki Burger (410): ground sirloin marinated in teriyaki sauce, charcoal grilled, topped with caramelised pineapple and chilli relish, rocket and iceberg lettuce, in a creamy brioche with perfect fries and tangy coleslaw.

Plus lots of sides, supplements and snacks, from Meatballs Tomato Ragu (280) to Northeastern sausage (180).

“Comfort Classics” include Signature BBQ Pork Rib (499); a double deck of ribs that would tip over Fred Flintstone's wheels. And my, aren't they succulent! Marinated and basted for hours in Jack Daniels honey BBQ sauce, smoky grilled for 45 minutes, served with sweetcorn and lime wedges, they're incontrovertibly among the best ribs around. See also Grilled Salmon Steak (600) and Lamb Rojan Josh (550).

Sweet sensations include best-selling Mango Sticky Rice (280), Tiramisu Mousse (280) with a wicked espresso, mascarpone and Kahlua kick, and Blueberry cheesecake – Philadelphia cream cheese blended with Baileys, over Graham cracker crumble, doused in blueberry jam, served with the contrasting tartness of strawberry, kiwi etc.

Set lunches with a main course and a soup or drink are 180-200 baht.

Beverages include consummate smoothies (190) such as Mango Banana with yoghurt and lime. Alcoholic libations range cocktails, wines, and draft or bottled beers. Plus mocktails, juices, teas and coffees, etc.

Watch the chalk board for daily specials. The Thai-style, sweet and spicy pork spare ribs coinciding with our visit is exceptionally tender and toothsome. Accompanying purple butterfly pea-tinged Thai dumplings stuffed with sweet peanut, and salad, provide perfect complements.

Bangkok Baking Company is equidistant from BTS Phloen Chit and Nana stations, between Sukhumvit Sois 2 and 4. Open daily 6:00 am to 10:00 pm.

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