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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Esther Addley

Bardonecchia in Italy trumps Bulgarian resorts as best value ski spot

Cross-country skiing at Pian del Colle, Bardonecchia,  Piedmont, Italy.
Bardonecchia, Italy. Researchers compared prices for a week’s adult ski pass, ski and boot hire, lessons, drinks and lunch on the slopes in 36 European resorts. Photograph: Andrea Rapisarda Photography/Getty

The ski resorts of Bulgaria have long been seen as the best option for British skiers hoping to hit the slopes on a budget. Borovets and Bansko might not have the glitz of Verbier, the after-ski buzz of St Anton, or the picturesque villages of the Trois Vallées, but as the solid, wallet-friendly option, Bulgaria has been unbeatable for more than a decade.

All that has changed, however, with the Bulgarian resorts this year being eclipsed by an unlikely budget rival: Bardonecchia in Italy. The Piedmont town, 96km from Turin and a few minutes’ drive from the border with France, is now the best value ski resort in Europe for adults, according to research.

By comparing prices for a week’s adult ski pass, ski and boot hire, lessons, a range of drinks and lunch on the slopes in 36 European resorts, researchers found that at £531.65 Bardonecchia was markedly cheaper than Borovets (£553.98) and third-placed Le Corbier in France (£611.32), and considerably better value than many better known resorts such as Morzine in France (£760.56) or Ischgl in Austria (£893.44).

Topping the chart for individual priciness was, unsurprisingly, the millionaire’s playground of Zermatt, where a week for one adult this winter, before travel, accommodation or evening meals, will cost £1,334.76.

Overall, of the “big four” European destinations of France, Switzerland, Italy and Austria, Italy offers the best value, with three more Italian resorts – Sauze d’Oulx, Sestriere and La Thuile in the top 10, according to the annual ski resort report by Post Office Travel Money.

A sunny snowboarding day in Bardonecchia
Bardonecchia has been a popular ski resort for more than a century and in 2006 hosted some of the Turin Winter Olympics events. Photograph: Federico Ravassard/Getty

Located at the southern entrance of the Fréjus road tunnel, Bardonecchia has been a popular ski resort for more than a century and in 2006 hosted some events of the Turin Winter Olympics.

The survey found that prices in Bardonecchia have risen by only 1.4% over the past year, compared with the second-ranked Borovets (up 8.2%), while Bansko fell to sixth place after an 18.1% rise driven by increased ski school costs.

Prices have fallen in nine of the 31 resorts that were also surveyed last year, with the largest drops in France’s Les Arcs and Wengen in Switzerland, which are both 5.5% cheaper.

When priced for a family of four, the cheapest resort was Jahorina in Bosnia and Herzegovina (£1,656.62), with the Italian resort of Passo Tonale in second; Bardonecchia was third.

Laura Plunkett, the head of Post Office Travel Money, said: “Ski resort costs are likely to play an important part in destination choice this year as the rising cost of living in the UK puts pressure on the amount of money ski enthusiasts have available for their annual winter sports holiday.

“That’s why it is so important for them to do their homework before booking and factor in all the costs of a ski holiday to the package price. The good news is that prices are lower in a number of popular resorts and, where they have risen, the increases are not as high as might have been expected, given inflation levels across Europe.”

The managing director of Crystal Ski Holidays, Chris Logan, said: “We are continuing to see strong demand in destinations that offer great value to bargain-conscious Brits, with Italy remaining a firm favourite for our customers for the winter 2023-24 season. We’ve also seen growth in budget-friendly destinations such as Bosnia and Herzegovina since it was introduced last season.”

Even the ski lifts are less stressful and lots of fun

A teenage skier in mid-air descent atBardonecchia
Bardonecchia is organised but also has fair and style. Photograph: Ascent/PKS Media Inc/Getty Images

For many ski enthusiasts, Italy has always been the top choice and Bardonecchia has regularly hit the right notes, drawing a loyal following from northern cities such as Turin. The town was a sleepy medieval retreat, with castle at the far end of the Susa Valley until the Fréjus rail tunnel was punched through the Alps in 1871, making Bardonecchia a strategic point. Skiing really took off in 1934 when two Norwegian brothers began proceedings, then the 2006 Winter Olympics brought fresh attention.

The infrastructure is good, bus services are punctual and the food excellent. Chris Logan, the managing director of the travel operator Crystal Ski Holidays, is a fan. “Bardonecchia has over 100km [62 miles] of runs, enough to keep everyone happy. I love the atmosphere and culture of Italian resorts, plus they tend to be high altitude so reliably snowsure.”

Everyone points out the flair and style: the instructor who skis backwards down the slopes in front of you, the bright colours and the general sunny disposition of local residents. Perhaps the real key, however, is the well-honed organisation of it. When it comes to ski resorts, the linking of services is excellent: Bardonecchia’s three ski areas, for example, are linked by a free bus service.

On those long days out, there are excellent refugios – mountain chalets serving good food and drink – and the grappa is excellent. Even the lift queues get the Italian treatment, being less stressful and lot more fun than elsewhere.
Kevin Rushby

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