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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Vicky Jessop

Barcelona: how to spend 48 hours in Catalonia's thriving capital

Spend one day in Barcelona and you’ll quickly realise why it’s one of Spain’s most-visited cities. A heady mix of old, new and somewhere in between, it’s a place where ancient alleyways bump up against the modernist buildings of Gaudí and Cadalfach, where the Sagrada Familia stands tall over the other buildings, and where tiny cafes sit alongside cutting-edge restaurants.

For those who love the city — or are yet to fall in love with it — 2026 also happens to be the perfect time to book a flight.

With the 100-year anniversary of Gaudí’s death taking place this year, as well as two music festivals (Primavera and electronic offering Sonar), the Formula 1 and a visit from none other than the Pope, there are plenty of reasons to think about heading over for the weekend and soaking in some of the city’s unique ambience for yourself.

However you plan to do it, here’s how to get the most out of a trip.

What to do

Barca effect: main image, Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona (Alamy Stock Photo)

Boredom isn’t a problem in Barcelona — there are always things to see — so much as deciding on your priorities.

There are a few must-dos, of course. Top of the list has to be the Sagrada Familia, the iconic cathedral started by Gaudi in 1882, which is still being built today. Despite the building work taking place on the main entrance, this really is a must-see: windows were installed in 2019, and the interior was finished in the Noughties.

The end result is breathtaking — do try to go in late afternoon, when the setting sun streams through the mullioned windows and lights up the entire white-stone interior (tickets start from 44.99; sagradafamilia-tickets.org).

If you’re keen on more Gaudi, the next place to stop off at would be Park Guell. Situated high on the hill above the city, it was commissioned by Count Eusebi Güell, Gaudi’s patron, to originally be a housing complex. These days, it’s a lovely, open space dotted with Gaudi artworks, including the two beautiful gatehouses and a massive mosaic lizard on the front staircase — perfect for a stroll (tickets from 49.90; park-guell-tickets.org).

For those who still have time, then head to the Passeig de Gràcia to see some of the most beautiful pieces of Modernist architecture the city has to offer. Top of the list is Gaudi’s Casa Batlló, which is a reimagining of the St George and the Dragon myth (St George also being the patron saint of Catalunia).

Tickets can be bought in advance (and definitely should be in high season) at casabatllo.es before visiting Casa Amatller next door, designed for the chocolatier Antoni Amatller by noted architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch. Or, indeed, Casa Milà, nicknamed La Pedrera (the quarry) by locals for the racket it made while Gaudi was building it.

Park Guell (Dorian D1 on Unsplash)

Today, it’s a museum — though one apartment is still occupied by a local Catalan writer — and tickets can be purchased in advance at lapedrera.com.

Gaudi’ed out? Barcelona’s old town, or Gothic Quarter, is well worth half a day’s wandering. Bordered on one side by Las Ramblas — the iconic thoroughfare that stretches all the way down to the port — the old streets are winding, giving onto unexpected squares, Roman ruins and ornate cathedrals. Stop off at the picturesque Plaça Reial for a drink as sun sets, or head off to wander the gorgeous (and underrated) Cathedral of Barcelona for some proper Gothic grandeur.

For those needing a break from all the buildings, there’s also the Parc de la Ciutadella, which abuts the Gothic Quarter and is a forest of palm trees, winding paths and a pretty awe-inducing fountain. Just north of it, it’s also worth popping over to see the Arc de Triomf — not as impressive as the French version, but still pretty.

If you have an extra day, then do consider making the hour-long drive to Catalunia’s famous wine country. This part of Spain is where cava is produced (like champagne, it’s a protected area), and accordingly, there are several different wineries happy to show you around their sprawling estates and explain the process.

That said, the best of the bunch is probably Codorníu, one of the founding houses of cava, which combines a fascinating history tour with some gorgeous architecture — its decidedly Modernist cellars and warehouses were designed by Cadafalch.

Today, the tour includes a trip around the house’s iconic wine cellars (which include 30km of tunnels) and the chance to taste what is often touted as the best cava in Barcelona (tickets start from 25; codorniu.com).

Where to eat

You’d best believe Barcelona offers some good eating. Where to start? In the heart of Gràcia, there’s Berbena, which requires booking weeks (if not months) in advance. With a massive wine cellar, a seasonal, ever-changing menu, and laid-back vibe, it’s not hard to see why (berbenabcn.com). Or there’s Hermòs, Bar de Peix, which is located in the more local-centric Llibertat market. It’s just a few seats by a counter, but don’t be fooled: the fish is fresh, the menu inventive and the service friendly (instagram.com). Or what about Alkimia, located near the Teatre Goya, which feels like quintessential Catalan cooking? Head here to feast on Jordi Vilà‘s takes on Catalan classicsL Xisqueta lamb, suquet (seafood stew) and traditional orelletes pastries (alkimia.cat).

In the mood for something a bit special? How about Tercero Primera A, a restaurant that’s so far off the map the only way to get a seat is by messaging the owner. Located on the third floor of an apartment building, this in-the-know spot has been transformed into a relaxed little paradise with huge windows, vintage furniture and an open kitchen. The chef, Arianna, serves home cooked, local food — in a word, it’s perfect (instagram.com).

For those looking to fill their stomachs and do a bit of light shopping, the Mercado de la Boqueria (which is a staggering 800 years old at this point) is always buzzing with both locals and tourists. The tens of stalls sell everything from olives to seafood, and (boqueria.barcelona), and it’s open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 8.30pm. Head in the morning to beat the lunchtime rush and treat yourself to as many tapas as you can eat, including Catalan specials such as bacallà salat (dried salted cod), argols (snails) served with aioli and peus de porc (pig’s trotters).

Another unmissable experience? Sipping cava (or vermouth) at one of the city’s many local cafes. Head to La Vinya del Senyor in El Born (lavinyadelsenyor.es) to sip from their extensive cava menu right next to the beautiful Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar; in the Gothic Quarter, La Vinateria del Call, with its brick-walled interior, is exceptionally cute (lavinateriadelcall.com). Further afield, in Eixample, the iconic Can Paixano hits the sweet spot between good cava and good prices; settle down, order a plate of jamon, and prepare to while away a few hours.

Where to stay

(Kimpton)

In terms of location, you can’t really get better than the Kimpton Vividora. Situated right in the heart of the Gothic Quarter, the hotel sits in a refurbished school building that blends perfectly into the winding streets. Inside, it’s all chic interiors, plush furniture and very attentive staff. Head to the top floor for a bar that boasts frankly unbeatable views over the city; unsurprisingly, it’s also a local favourite, especially given the hotel’s very popular weekend brunch menu, which features bottomless mimosas (rooms start from £230; kimptonvividorahotel.com).

Outside the Gothic Quarter, there’s also The Hoxton Poblenou. Located on a busy boulevard that stretches down to the sea, its trendy interiors nevertheless offer a respite from the hustle and bustle outside, with all the requisite Hoxton touches: chic décor, interiors that play with texture in fun new ways, and (in this case) a gorgeous rooftop pool perfect for sunbathing by (rooms from £200 per night; thehoxton.com).

On the other hand, for those wanting to stay in the heart of architect heaven, the Passeig de Gràcia, there’s also Hotel Casa Sagnier. This time, Gaudi isn’t the star — that would be Enric Sagnier i Villavecchia, who left his mark on buildings around the city, including the Garriga and Juncadella houses. But this is his actual home, at Rambla de Catalunya 104. Built in 1892 as a family home, this is a Gothic palace with balconies and 51 beautiful rooms that have now been converted into hotel rooms. Also worth visiting? The on-site Cafè de l'Arquitecte restaurant (rooms from £255; hotelsone.com).

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