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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Victoria Moss

Barbie, fashion daddies and Kylie Jenner's year in style — how 2023 was your wardrobe?

The rise of fashion daddies

Matthew Bomer, Andrew Scott, Jonathan Bailey and Paul Mescal, ready to break the internet (Evan Ross Katz)

Daddy dandyism is the viral male load which keeps on giving. What this means for a testosterone-strewn dinner table near you soon, we’d love to know. But when Andrew Scott, Paul Mescal, Jonathan Bailey and Matt Bomer posed together in a knit-wear thirst trap the internet almost shut down in shock. You may have also noted Jacob Elordi’s Saltburn premiere appearances with Barry Keoghan, not to mention Taylor Swift’s new man Travis Kelce whose looks are getting more attention than her. Swooping in at the year’s end is, of course, Timothée Chalamet and his saucy Tom Ford Wonka turns; and lest we forget, A$AP Rocky’s Bottega Veneta campaign and Pedro Pascal’s legs at the Met Gala. High fashion runway look wearing men are our Roman empire. No, you’re leering.

Barbie and Birkenstocks

(Getty Images for Warner Bros.)

Was it a wry feminist-lite look at entrenched, demeaning portrayals of women, or just an excuse for fashion labels to cash in on a litany of pink tat and for beauty brands to hawk products promising “perfect as plastic” faces? If the thought of those fuchsia billboards still makes you feel triggered, then bear with — there’s award season to get through. The film launched 1.1 billion views of #barbiecore on TikTok as well as a plethora of somewhat inadvisable grown women dressing up as the doll. Pink’s stranglehold over fashion, thankfully, seems on the wane.

 

No coat, just knickers

Emma Corrin in Miu Miu (Getty Images for Miu Miu)

Emma Corrin’s turn on the Miu Miu runway in Paris in March set off a no trousers required trend which rumbles on this festive season. According to the fashion search engine Lyst, searches for hot pants have increased 133 per cent year on year. A joy for us all. The knicker look, as seen again on Corrin in Venice, picks up where the sheer, naked dress trend trod strong ground. Some, Julia Fox for example, might wonder why bother with clothes at all.

Dressing Rich

Gwyneth Paltrow in a G.Label by Goop cream cardigan at her Utah court hearing (AP)

Was it only in March that Gwyneth Paltrow gave us the dreaded phrase stealth wealth in action with her rivetingly nonchalant Utah court looks? The endless think pieces ruminating over the meaning of Loro Piana knits and coats from The Row were only partially satiated by the finale of Succession. More quietly expensive clothes! Not forgetting a very non-U ludicrously capacious bag. The bourgeois obsession with dressing like a rich person lingers on, with fawning explainers littering TikTok on which beige Zara jumper to buy to appear more town car than Tube carriage.

Making Kylie happen

Kylie Jenner at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show in Paris in January (WireImage)

This year the Kardashians gave fashion Kylie. Hitherto the mother of two had been more concerned with her lipstick acolytes, but after turning up at Paris Fashion Week’s Schiaparelli show with a giant (faux) lion taxidermy stuck onto her chest, Jenner stepped into the style limelight. Her 399million Instagram followers are now able to emulate her every pleather look with newly launched brand Khy.

Tomato-girl summer

Hailey Bieber mastering the art of Tomato Girl Summer (Hailey Bieber Instagram)

Has TikTok killed off actual style? Tomato girl summer might have given those opposed to Barbie pink something to chew over but isn’t it time to start thinking beyond the algorithm for our fashion pointers? A thought.

Mum’s the word

Phoebe Philo's £3000

Just when everyone was kvetching over the dismal lack of women in creative director roles at luxury fashion houses, in swooped Phoebe Philo with an internet crashing offer of a £3,000 Mum necklace. Her first collection definitely had stealthy flavour — ideal grey roll neck knits and military inspired coats will soon be littering a high street store near you. But there are also flashes of splodgy leopard print shoe fun. Move over daddies, Mother has returned.

Cowboy Crocs

The Crocs cowboy boot (Crocs)

Hideous, and not even splash proof given the holes on the side, but the Croc cowboy boots still sold out. We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, what is wrong with everybody?

Harry’s cardy

David Hockney paints Harry Styles in his Molly Goddard cardigan (PA)

The humble cardigan emerged triumphant as this year’s knit du jour — albeit with something of a sexing up (Prada’s were sheer). Immortalised by David Hockney, Harry Styles’ striped Molly Goddard cardy set the sweater tone for autumn.

Bad taste on tour

Beyoncé making silver happen on her Renaissance world tour (WireImage for Parkwood)

I’m not sure any of us had money on feather boas and coloured cowboy hats having a fresh moment in the sun, but there’s no accounting for pop fandom. In rolled Harry Styles and Beyoncé and their convoy of buses and the things were littered outside stadiums world wide. The Beyhive have also managed to make head to toe silver seriously happen. Brace for next year when Taylor Swift’s Eras tour will bring Swiftie cosplay to the British tour-leg fore.

The nerdy Noughties Sloane return

Little Sims in loafers and socks at Skepta's London Fashion Week show in September (Getty Images)

Loafers and socks? Ballet pumps? A popped collar white shirt with sweater tossed over the shoulders? The King’s Road homage was strong this year. An £800 price tag didn’t stop Alaïa’s stud covered ballerina shoes becoming the hottest flat of the year. Hardware-topped loafers and white sports socks came a very close second. For full immersion and pointers in OG Sloane-style, see Saltburn and The Crown.

Coming up short

Rishi Sunak, coming up short (trousered) (POOL/AFP via Getty Images)

Menswear writer Derek Guy only needed to shoot off a few words on X to create an obsession with the length of Rishi Sunak’s trousers. In a slow August news cycle, he wrote: “Baffling to me how the wealthiest UK Prime Minister in history could live just steps away from Savile Row, the single greatest concentration of skilled bespoke tailors, and end up paying $2k for a MTM suit with sleeves and trousers two to four inches too short.” We’re just relieved he’s not still showing off his Palm Angels sliders.

The death of the floral dress?

A floral dress from John Lewis, reduced to clear (John Lewis)

It’s been a long year, but in February John Lewis declared the death knell of the stranglehold which the unassuming, midi length floral dress has had over us for the past decade. No longer were we to wallow in the safe style rut of blousy high street numbers paired with a white trainer. But a caveat of sorts. Next spring is drenched in enough rose motifs to press the brakes on the kibosh, but do reappraise your shoe options.

 

The £15 It bag

Round mini shoulder bag, £14.90, Uniqlo (Uniqlo)

Right in the eye of the stealth wealth movement came a saviour. Uniqlo’s half-moon bag, available in endless colour options, clocked up 119 million views on TikTok. We’ve seen enough of them now, but can appreciate the lure of a useful, wallet-friendly companion.

 

Bow down

Bows at Simone Rocha autumn/winter 2023 (Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

I say this with caution, but we may be reaching peak bow. The things are strewn over Christmas trees, bouncy blow drys and party frocks. Saloni’s Camille three tiered-crystal bow-bedecked number is one of Hurr rental’s most popular lend outs. Which means everyone’s wearing it. Ergo, maybe don’t?

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