Good news just in time for the summer holidays: after decades off the menu, the Marine Stewardship Council has declared North Sea cod stocks sustainable, meaning you can now enjoy the odd portion of Britain’s favourite sea fish without a side order of guilt (top tip: go for mushy peas instead).
This is not to say that we should be making up for lost time: if the cod population is to remain at these levels, we should continue to diversify the fish we eat and go for the occasional vegetarian alternative: the battered halloumi I saw at one Norfolk chippy recently might not have been traditional, but it did taste great with a dash of vinegar.
To mark the return of the king of the North Sea, here are four quick recipes making the most of its rightly celebrated charms, all perfect for dinner when you spot the first blue MSC tick on British cod in a few days’ time.
Barbecued cod with salsa verde and new potatoes
We do not tend to barbecue a lot of fish in the UK, which is a shame: cod’s meaty flesh is perfect for it, though care is needed to ensure it doesn’t stick to the grill; use a fish slice rather than the usual tongs when turning it over. As always with fish, err on the side of caution: it will carry on cooking off the heat, so better to have it slightly underdone than burned to a flaky cinder.
Serves 2
200g small new potatoes
200g thickish sustainable cod fillet, preferably in one piece
2 small cloves of garlic, finely chopped
4 anchovies, rinsed if packed in salt
Leaves from about 30g flat-leaf parsley (about 20g leaves)
Leaves from about 30g basil (about 20g leaves)
2 tbsp salted capers, rinsed and roughly chopped
About 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
120-150ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra to cook
Heat the barbecue, and bring a pan of generously salted water to the boil. Add the potatoes, and cook for about 12-15 minutes until tender. Drain and keep warm.
Meanwhile, for the salsa verde, mash the garlic and anchovies in a pestle and mortar, then gradually add the herbs and capers and pound to a smoothish paste (I like it chunky, which is why I add the capers last).
Stir in a dash of vinegar then slowly whisk in the oil until you achieve your desired consistency. Taste and add more of the vinegar if you like, plus seasoning as necessary.
Brush the fish with oil and season well. Cook on a hot grill for about three minutes on each side, turning very carefully to ensure it doesn’t fall apart, until just beginning to flake (exact cooking time will depend on your piece of fish, so trust your instincts).
Divide between two plates and top with a dollop of the salsa verde, with a spoonful of warm potatoes on the side.
Japanese miso-marinated cod with rice and greens
Based on the black cod, or sablefish, dish made famous by the Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa, this version using our local North Sea variety makes a quick and easy dinner, and if you have time to marinate the fish all day while you’re at work, it’s even better.
Serves 2
2 sustainable cod fillets
120g sushi rice
Dash of rice vinegar
2 heads of pak choi
1 spring onion, sliced on the diagonal
For the marinade:
2 tbsp white (shiro) miso paste
1 tbsp mirin (sweet rice wine)
1 tsp sugar
1 tbsp soy sauce
20g fresh ginger, grated
Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade until they form a smooth paste. Spread all over the cod, cover and refrigerate for up to 12 hours, or until ready to cook.
Bring a pan of well-seasoned water to the boil, and then cook the rice according to packet instructions. Drain well, saving the water to steam the pak choi, and put the rice back into the hot pan to steam dry for a couple of minutes, then season with a little vinegar and keep warm while you cook the cod and pak choi.
Line a grill pan with foil, and heat the grill to high. Grill the cod for about five to eight minutes without turning, until the marinade has caramelised and the fish is beginning to flake (exactly how long will depend on the thickness of the fillets).
Meanwhile, cut the pak choi in half lengthways and steam over the rice water for about three minutes until just wilted. Divide between two plates, add the rice, then finish with the cod. Top with the sliced spring onion to serve.
Baked cod with tomatoes
An easy, crowd-pleasing dish that goes well with rice, bread or boiled new potatoes. To up the vegetable content, you can add a couple of finely chopped courgettes or red peppers to the sauce as well.
Serves 4
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 small red onion, finely chopped
Leaves from 1 sprig of rosemary, finely chopped
1 tbsp capers
2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
100g black olives, stones removed
4 sustainable cod fillets
Handful of basil leaves, torn, to serve
Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Heat the oil in an ovenproof pan just large enough to hold the cod in a single layer over a medium heat, and then gently fry the onion until soft. Add the rosemary, capers and tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Turn down the heat slightly, and cook for 15 minutes.
Stir in the balsamic vinegar and olives and then add the cod, which should be almost submerged by the sauce. Bring back to a simmer, then put in the oven and bake for 10-12 minutes until the fish is cooked through. Season, top with the torn basil and serve at the table.
Cod, avocado and tomato ceviche
Even in its homeland of Peru, no single species is preferred for ceviche: because it needs to be as fresh as possible, the fish used varies according to the local catch, making this the perfect choice to mark our newest sustainable seafood. This cooling, zingy salad is an ideal lunch or light supper on a hot summer’s day. To bulk it out, serve with lightly salted tortilla chips on the side.
Serves 2
½ red onion, finely chopped
1 bowl iced water
250g skinless and boneless sustainable cod
½ tsp salt, plus extra to season
4 limes
Half an orange
Half to one whole red bird’s eye chilli, shredded (depending on heat tolerance)
1 ripe avocado
2 ripe tomatoes
Small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped
Put the chopped onion into iced water and soak for five minutes, then drain well.
Cut the fish into 1½–2cm cubes and rub with the ½ tsp salt. Leave for a minute. Meanwhile, zest half of the limes and the half orange, then juice all the fruit.
Add the citrus juices, zest and chilli to the fish and leave to marinate for 10 minutes. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Chop the avocado and tomato into similarly sized pieces to the fish and stir it all together. Divide between two bowls. Scatter with coriander, and serve immediately.
