According to legend, the discovery of the miraculous qualities of penicillium roqueforti were discovered by a lovelorn shepherd, who set off in pursuit of a beautiful maiden. When he returned, the bread and cheese he had left in a cave had become mouldy – and delicious. Roquefort cheese, pride of the Aveyron département, was born.
The cheese uses milk from Lacaune sheep and is made only in the village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, which sits under impressive limestone crags in the Parc naturel régional des Grands Causses. Several of the maturing caves, hewn storeys deep into the rock, can be visited, including Papillon and Société. The caves are a chilly 8-10C (46-50F) all year round, so wear warm clothes.
Roquefort is only the most famous of the Aveyron cheeses: you'll also find Pérail, a creamy ewe's milk cheese; Bleu des Causses, a cow's milk cheese made like roquefort, and Laguiole, which is mixed with mashed potato to make rich, sticky aligot. It's a characteristic country dish, but rural doesn't mean rustic, for the area also has some outstanding restaurants.
Top of the list is the Michelin three-star restaurant of Michel and Sébastien Bras, in a striking modern glass and stone building, with stunning views over the windswept Aubrac plateau. The signature starter is the gargouillou of young vegetables and herbs. After lunch, make time to follow the footpath that the Bras have created around the restaurant, winding through the pastures and woodland that is their constant inspiration.
At Hôtel-Restaurant du Vieux Pont, one of Aveyron's five Michelin one-star restaurants, set next to the river Aveyron in the tiny medieval village of Belcastel, west of Rodez, chef Nicole Fagegaltier focuses on seasonal local produce, including Aubrac beef, Aveyron veal and lamb, as well as herbs and vegetables from Rodez market.
Much more rustic is the table paysanne at Ferme Carles, where you can visit the duck farm and foie gras production facility before sitting down to hearty duck confit and magret, cooked on an open fire, amid an impressive array of copper pans.
As anywhere in France, the best place to get your finger on the culinary pulse is the morning food markets, held in almost every town and village. Among the best are the Thursday market in arcaded Place Notre-Dame in the beautiful bastide town Villefranche-de-Rouergue, Sunday under the plane trees at Marcillac (known for its powerful red wines), the sprawling Friday market at Millau (plus covered market Wednesday to Saturday), and Wednesday and Saturday at Rodez: great places to find all manner of fresh produce, hams and sausages, and discover gâteau à la broche, a spiky witch's hat of a cake dribbled around a spit.
To find out more about this destination, visit gotofrancenow.com/midi-pyrenees-millau
