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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Entertainment
Joe Bromley

Raf Simons makes a case for neon long johns, fishnets and rompers at debut London show

Mega-club Printworks in Canada Water was lit up last night despite its imminent closure.

Belgian designer Raf Simons chose to show his latest SS23 collection during Frieze week in London, after original plans to present during London Fashion Week were postponed following Queen Elizabeth II’s passing.

(Raf Simons SS23)

And in the lofty building at 8pm yesterday evening, a screen played with a Raf-clad ballet dancer teasing what was to come, as vodka cocktails were passed across a bar stretching the length of the former dancefloor. Lights dropped, drinks cleared, and models strutted out on the bar top.

The ex-Dior Creative Director who now co-designs Prada with founder Miuccia Prada, showed a stripped back and sexy collection punctuated by neon long johns and graffiti covered vests.

(Raf Simons SS23)

Carefully constructed leathers came as overcoat and biker jacket combinations, worn over simple, beige knitted jumpers and grounded with bulky motorcycle boots.

Turning heads were the knitted rompers for men and sleek sleeveless tailored jackets worn atop chunky sweaters, while Simons’ women’s wardobe consisted of minimalist, square neck sack dresses and office-style grey knee length skirt suits worn with black, strappy kitten heels.

(Raf Simons SS23)

Talk in the packed venue turned to originality, however. The designs reminded many of the Prada collections he is designing, as opposed to a new Simons brand-future. But with elements of humour in the skeleton hand bangles and pen scribbled prints, there are plenty of cult products sure to snapped up by his dedicated fanbase come spring.

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