As I bounced around in the front seat of a land rover _ bones jarring, joints rattling and brains scrambling � Bette Davis's famous line in the movie "All About Eve" flashed through my mind _ "buckle your seat belts; it's going to be a bumpy ride."
Even trussed up like a prize turkey as I was, it was impossible to overstate the bumpiness of this ride. Six of us, plus our driver, Sherman, were traversing the rugged terrain in the Arikok National Park, an area of caves, sand dunes and limestone cliffs on Aruba's eastern side.
Covering almost 20 percent of the island's land surface, it's an arid, harsh environment, more reminiscent of the deserts of Arizona and New Mexico than the lush tropics of the Caribbean.
Here, vegetation tends to be cactus plants rather than the signature divi-divi trees found on the rest of the island, while the dry desert conditions make it hospitable for wildlife such as rattlesnakes, iguanas and the beautiful Cododo, an iridescent turquoise lizard.
The park attracts numerous visitors who come _ not just to marvel at the lunar-like landscape with its massive rock formations, but for attractions both natural (the serene Natural Pool, sandwiched in between the cliffs and accessible by a staircase of some 80 steps) and man-made (the remains of a once flourishing gold mine, cave paintings done by Arawak Indians and the surprising Alta Vista Chapel, a sunburst of bright yellow against the dun-colored surroundings).
A journey to Arikok National Park is a highlight of any visit to Aruba, and the Land Rover adventure, offered by De Palm Tours, will delight adrenalin junkies; however, those with bad backs or other medical conditions, as well as pregnant women would probably be wise to avoid it. Instead, they can opt for a hike led by one of the park's knowledgeable rangers.
The Land Rover excursion had been arranged by my accommodation, the Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, located on the dazzling white sands of Palm Beach.
In contrast to the National Park, this is the Aruba of travel posters and vacationers' dreams. Lush landscaping links the resort's various buildings to a series of cascading waterfalls and pools (one for families and one reserved for adults only), shopping arcades, a Mandara spa (located in the Ocean Club adjacent to the hotel), and six restaurants which will ensure no one goes hungry.
On my first night, I took part in a signature Marriott experience _ dinner at Atardi, a pop-up beach restaurant. On the same spot where guests bask on chaise lounges during the day, once sunset approaches, the chaises are replaced by tables and chairs scattered along the beach. Diners can dig their toes into the sand, listen to island music and hope for a glimpse of the green flash as the sun slowly sinks into the horizon. At Atardi, it's difficult to know which gets top billing _ the sunset, serenade or seafood platters.
My vote goes to the latter. Having never been to Aruba before (except to board a cruise ship), I was delighted by the excellence of the food at every place I tried.
Stop in for breakfast at Linda's Dutch Pancake House and you'll likely never think of pancakes the same way again. At Linda's, the Aruban version are pizza-sized and filled with some of the most delectable tidbits imaginable, both savory and sweet.
While the bacon and apple pancake is the most popular, I opted for the brie, walnut and honey concoction. The walnuts were cooked inside the pancake, with the brie melted on top and local honey on the side. Had it not been for a case of self-inflicted pancake shaming, I honestly think I could have finished the entire thing.
That would have been a shame as lunch was a scant few hours later at Charlie's, a place so oozing with local color that Sloppy Joe's in Key West or Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop in New Orleans seem sedate by comparison. Try the mouth-watering ribs with one of the local beers and you'll be in heaven.
There must be something in the Aruban air because I was hungry again by dinner time. Luckily, the West Deck was a more than satisfactory spot in which to satisfy the hunger pangs. With a casual outdoor terrace overlooking the cruise ship terminal, it specializes in _ what else _ seafood.
On another day, I had a leisurely lunch at island favorite Zeerovers. Tables sprawl across a wooden deck overlooking the water, and fishermen pull up at the pier to unload their daily catches. This means you'll get the freshest fish and shrimp possible, and the plantain puffs will melt in your mouth.
It was back to the Marriott for La Vista's sumptuous buffet, which features the island's native dish, Keshi Yena. A sort of chicken stew, it contains raisins, cashews, onions, green olives and a variety of seasonings and is topped with slices of Gouda cheese.
