While La Liga largely outplays Serie A on the soccer stage, the same cannot be said of the respective cuisines of Italy and Spain, with the former the clear favourite.
But Arroz ["rice"] Spanish Rice House, a year-old lodestone of costa del sol sunshine ≃500m up Suk 53 on the right, proves conclusively that Spanish cuisine is equally eligible for mass adoration.
Even if you still find the sudden surge in Spanish restaurants in Bangkok suspect, this passion project of peripatetic former chef-for-hire Victor Burgos (Thyme, Bangkok, and Michelin-starred restaurants like The Principal in Hong Kong), will expunge all doubts.
That old "paella, sangria, hamon" cliché proves as deluded as Don Quixote.
Artfully infused into a free-standing former Thai family home, with vibrant Spanish ceramic wall art saffron suffusion, rustic tables, zonal internal space across two floors plus patio enclaves, and a homey vibe revolving around Victor and amigo Miguel, bright, intense flavours loom large.
"We're a fully Spanish restaurant, sourcing Spanish products as much as we can and taking recipes from across the country," summarises Victor.
Excellent soft rolls, peppery pimento olives and tomato salsa arrive with the menu which balances chef-driven specials with Spanish classics. Eight cold starters include the revelation that is gazpacho soup from southern Spain with cherry, feta cheese, infused olive oil and the soft crunch of tiny crouton (150). Plus two kinds of anchovies -- Cantabrian brown (850) and Boquerones white anchovies marinated in vinegar, (B650) with a zingy tartness, blasts of garlic and briny flavour, fresh but strong.
Eleven hot starters include the explosion of flavours caused by piquilo peppers being stuffed with rosemary cheese, served with grilled tuna belly (400), along with typical garlic prawns, and muscular croquettes (215) with a filling juxtaposing blue-cheese kick with umami ham and mushroom, etc.
Another section -- "Los Peperetes" -- offers premium canned seafood from Rias Biaxas, ranging barnacles, razor clams, cockles, clams.
Ten paellas include meat, fish and seafood varieties offered for two or four (850-4,800).
But the restaurant is actually named for Arroz Meloso, "brothy rice", paella's creamy cousin made with more stock. Selections includes black creamy rice/monkfish cheek (B460). The dish bursts forth with beautiful seafood and shellfish notes with chewy octopus adding another layer of flavour and texture to the al dente rice and tender, flavourful monkfish.
Six meat dishes include suckling pig, celeriac, pomegranate, lemon and pak choi (850). Five fish and seafood dishes include scallops, Iberico ham, cauliflower & leek (950).
Victor's artful plating features with octopus on a bed of potato parmentier (750), with the tender, chewy octopus combining deliciously with the lightly charred pimento coating.
A standout dessert is an update on traditional Torrija, using freshly baked bread instead of the original leftovers, soaking in milk then pan-frying with butter, sugar and honey, giving the soft meringue-like inside a chewy caramel crust. Contrasted with strawberry and raspberry sherbet, fresh raspberry and dried raspberry, and soused with custard, it's easily enough for two, except it's so good it's hard to stop eating.
The 100% Spanish wines, available by the glass, carafe and bottle from B165/glass, are kept in different cellars at optimum temperatures. Around half are reds, along with whites, cava (cave) wines, rosés, sherries and sparklers. Not to mention Estrella Galicia beer.
The soundtrack is Spanish pop and occasional live flamenco performances when artists pass through are packed out.
Arroz, 112 Sukhumvit Soi 53. Tel. 02-258-7696
www.facebook.com/arrozbkk
Open Mon, Wed-Fri 5:30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm Nearest train: BTS Thong Lo
