Arbroath smokies

The name Arbroath Smokie can only be used to describe haddock which has been smoked in the traditional manner within an 8km radius of Arbroath Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/freelance

One popular theory about the name relates to a cottage in Auchmithie in which haddocks were hanging up to be dried, when a fire broke out and burned the house to the ground. Sifting through the ashes, wood and dust the 'smokies' were discovered, and a delicacy was born Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/freelance

Traditionally, fishwives smoked the skewered haddock on halved whisky barrels with fires underneath. The smoke was trapped under layers of coarse sacking, provided by the local jute mills Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/freelance

The smokie technique is similar to smoking processes carried out to this day in Scandinavia Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/freelance

The base of the barrel is lined with slates and a hardwood fire of beech and oak is lit. The sticks of fish are placed over the pit, with the hessian cover allowing the fire to breathe Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/freelance

The number of layers is adjusted constantly to prevent the fish either burning, or smoking too slowly and drying out. Cooking time is usually a minimum of 30 - 40 minutes, but only an experienced smokie maker knows exactly when they are ready Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/freelance

The Arbroath Smokie now has official protection through the Protected Geographical Indication, similar to champagne and Parma ham Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/freelance