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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel

Antibes Juan-les-Pins: French maritime chic

The town of Antibes Juan-les-Pins is known for its three key resorts: Antibes is the yachting capital of the south of France; Juan-les-Pins is the jetset destination de nos jours; between these two areas – which sit a 10-minute walk or five-minute cycle ride apart – lies Cap d'Antibes. This beach-lined peninsula trims both resorts with a seemingly endless parade of belle époque villas.

All three resorts are synonymous with different styles of 20th-century maritime chic. Pablo Picasso painted the sea from his home in artsy Antibes. Coco Chanel was barred from wearing beachwear to the casino in Juan-les-Pins. Marc Chagall sketched from one of the seaside cabanas on Cap d'Antibes. Each seafront stretch is lapped by a Mediterranean awash with swimmers, kayaks, sailboats and super-yachts.

The best way to understand all three sunkissed resorts is by taking to the sea. It's claimed that waterskiing was invented in Juan-les-Pins' Belle Rives hotel. Pathé films show young starlets being pulled behind a Riva speedboat. The resort remains the watersport's spiritual home, not least as the offshore Lérins Islands render the bay as calm as a lake. Daily lessons at the hotel's beach club now cover monoboards, wakeboards, family waterski trips and freestyle.

For more relaxed outings on the water, walk east to Antibes's Plage de la Salis. Here the Club Nautique d'Antibes runs weekly lessons on children's Optimist dinghies, adult catamarans, windsurfs and kayaks, as well as a summertime sailing school. Kayak rental and lessons are also offered by Cap Kayak. Among its tours is a day-long paddle along Cap d'Antibes and the Lérins Islands.

No permit or lessons are required to rent a small speedboat from Antibes Bateaux Service
Cruise the waters of Antibes in a chic speedboat

No permit or lessons are required to rent a small speedboat from Antibes Bateaux Service. Up to five guests may cruise past the Picasso Museum in Antibes, snorkel by the billionaire homes on Cap d'Antibes, then anchor for a picnic off Plage de la Garoupe. This is one the chicest beaches in the south of France.

The triangle between Antibes, Juan-les-Pins and the Cap d'Antibes is just as colourful below the waves. Snorkellers and scuba divers can expect canyons and cliffs alive with rockfish and bream. Easy Dive in Juan-les-Pins' Port Gallice marina offers scuba hire, snorkel rental and in-depth multiple-dive PADI courses.

And finally, no effort or outlay is required for a sunny sojourn on Juan-les-Pins' two-mile (3km) sandy beach. For the finest snorkelling on the French Riviera, hop on the local ferry to Ile Sainte-Marguerite, a protected island just off these shores. It's half-botanical garden, half-underwater paradise – and 100% car-free.

To find out more about this destination, visit gotofrancenow.com/antibes

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