In five words
An unspoiled west coast pearl.
Sound of the city
The cry of a steel guitar – Gothenburg is bustling with talented musicians. This is the sound of Movienite, just one of the amazing up-and-coming local bands.
Best building
Masthuggskyrkan is a church in the district of Masthugget Majorna, one of the most charismatic and creatively progressive areas of the city. The church occupies a prominent position in the city – both physically, as it sits high on a hill, and in terms of its design, which represents the national romantic style of Nordic architecture.
Designed by Sigfrid Ericson in 1914 – who also had a hand in creating the city’s art hall – its tower stands 200ft high. Looking out from this hilltop over the traditionally working class areas that stretch along the harbourside is a true Gothenburg experience.
Homegrown talent
If they’re not playing in Los Angeles, Tokyo or South by Southwest festival, rock’n’roll band Graveyard can be found in shabby Gothenburg pubs drinking a “wet leaf” or having a traditional liverwurst sandwich with a pickle on top. With their bootcut denim jeans and moustaches, they play tough, bluesy seventies–inspired rock – a treat for your ears.
Best local artist
The town hero is street artist Jonathan “Ollio” Josefsson, who makes astonishingly beautiful tufted rugs from his graffiti art and is one of a handful of hardworking artists jazzing up the city’s reputation. Despite gallery exhibitions and art shows, you will still find Ollio’s work where it began, on the city’s streets and down its back alleys.
The look on the street
How green is your city?
Gothenburg is a bike-friendly city. Last year, for instance, the urban transport administration introduced a pilot project involving electric bikes, and most people jump on their bicycles even when it’s raining horizontally. There’s also a lot of interest in ecological grocery shopping, with dedicated organic and holistic stores popping up across the city. The shops are filled with locally produced greens and brown paper bags to reduce unnecessary plastic packaging.
Most underrated location
West of Slottskogen park, an enchanting mountain ridge of green parkland, you will find the Azalea valley. While Slottskogen is popular with families and friends from the city who gather to have barbecues and play sports, deeper into the valley you will find far fewer people, especially if you get there early. It’s a little tricky to find but well worth the search – a lonely bench among the blossom trees is a perfect spot for serene meditation.
Moment in history
“Här ska staden ligga!” (“Here! The city should be placed here!”), King Gustav II Adolf hollered in 1621, and so Gothenburg was built on a mud pile. Located on both sides of the Göta river, with civilisation and woodland spreading along each wing, it’s now the second largest city in Sweden. In the central square stands a bronze statue commemorating the moment King Gustav founded the city – his hand points down to the ground, but he gazes dreamily into the horizon.
Top insider’s tips
You will seldom have such easy access to something as stunning as the west coast archipelago. Take the number nine or eleven tram out to Saltholmen (the salt islet), step out, and it’s all there. Even the tram ride itself is a pleasure.
Once you arrive, walk down to the little booth by the water, get yourself a fika with a traditional cinnamon role and a Trocadero – a Swedish apple and orange-flavoured soft drink. From there, take the ferry boat to one of the beautiful islands and try the local seafood taverns, get to know the local black sheep and experience some traditional dancing.
From me
Nor Toma works in communications and has travelled the globe. You can follow her on Instagram, or Pinterest.
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