Cairo is a place like no other — timeless, rife with history, teeming with people, noisy, sleepless and yet spiritual and life-affirming. It’s an extremely multifaceted city, with distinct districts — Coptic Cairo, Old Cairo and Medieval Cairo, as well as Downtown Cairo. While the latter was shaped in the 19th century, it has seen a revival recently, and young people are doing incredible things there — creating an atmosphere of collaboration and togetherness.
The city is the place to be right now for anyone interested in adventure, heritage and culture. It is also a great destination for women travelling solo. Locals are so warm and welcoming, you can walk down any street, get lost, and people will help you — even if they give you the wrong directions!
A long weekend in Cairo is ideal to see the varied districts, immerse yourself in its markets, taste authentic food and see the ancient pyramids and museums — though with little time to sleep or eat you could pack most of the best haunts into 48 hours! Arrive on a Friday as most things are shut in the morning but reopen by the afternoon.
Start your days as early as possible, to feel as though you’re the only soul around in some of the tourist sights. An ideal day exploring the city should start at Ibn Tulun Mosque. Built in 876AD, it is the oldest and arguably the most beautiful mosque in Egypt, with 2.5 acres of pointed arches and brick courtyards.
Next head to the Gayer-Anderson Museum, just a three-minute walk away. It’s a 16th-century house restored in the 1930s by Robert Gayer-Anderson, a British civil servant. The house is a treasure trove of furniture, tiles, antiques and textiles. The rooftop terrace is a must for its lovely views, as is a visit to the Mashrabia Gallery of Contemporary Art.
A 10-minute walk will take you to Sultan Hassan Mosque. Built in the 14th century, it is considered to be the finest example of Mamluk architecture in Cairo.
For lunch, one of the best spots is Naguib Mahfouz restaurant. Don’t miss the fresh mint lemonade, freshly baked baladi bread, hummus, baba ganoush and salads.
Afternoons are well spent in the bustling maze of Khan El Khalili market. Look out for beautiful glass pieces, alabaster candleholders, embroidered kaftans and traditional backgammon sets. You should also invest in Egyptian cotton, as it will last a lifetime. Make sure to check out the Khayamiya area here, the home of the Egyptian tentmakers. The route there is a bit of a maze, but it’s worth it!
The evening is the best time to shop in Zamalek, one of Cairo’s most charming residential neighbourhoods. It’s where my store Anüt Cairo is. We showcase the best of Egyptian craftsmanship, from hand-embroidered textiles and jubilantly coloured glassware to pottery full of charm. I have always been so inspired by the art here, because there are crafts that have been alive from one generation to the next for thousands of years.
For dinner, try Kebabgy, right on the Nile, where the sunsets are fabulous, the bread is freshly baked and there’s delicious grilled meats and Middle Eastern fare. Or stroll downtown to the roof terrace of Mazeej Hotel, which has great cocktails.
Zööba is an emerging trendy destination for street food. Try koshari, which is a typical local dish of rice, pasta and lentils in a tomato sauce with burned onions. It’s much more delicious than it sounds and the chef here, Moustafa, is one to watch.
Morning is a great time to visit the pyramids to beat the crowds. Alternatively, visit them on horseback after dark (if you are in a group and a confident rider). The recently reopened Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) is also a must.
In Coptic Cairo visit The Coptic Museum, with its collection of beautiful textiles. For something off the beaten track, head to Wissa Wassef, a school of weaving close to the pyramids. You’ll be inspired by observing the weavers at work. But the best way to soak in the city? Take a felucca down the Nile at sunset and bring a picnic with a bottle of wine. Cairo will give you the feeling that anything is possible.
Goya Gallagher is the founder of Anūt Cairo, a store which celebrates Egyptian heritage and craftsmanship
Where to stay
Mazeej Balad
A downtown gem for adults only with just five rooms and a roof terrace boasting views of the city. With Malak Orfy’s minimalist interiors, it blends modern comfort with historic features.
Rooms from £265. Book it here
