Perhaps it’s only fitting that the first all-English European final in four years is taking place in Bilbao, where Tottenham will take on Manchester United in the Europa League final later this month.
The Basque city’s own football team — Athletic Bilbao —has a deep history with Britain, going back to the 19th century. Football was introduced to Bilbao by workers from England who travelled over for jobs in the famously industrial city. Not only that, a footballer named Alfred Mills from Cornwall was one of the original founders of the club in 1898 and its name has an unusually English spelling (as opposed to the Spanish Atlético).
But for the 28,000 fans heading over for the final on May 21st, they’ll see a once-industrial city totally transformed. My meander along the serpentine Nervión River took me from Casco Viejo’s (the old town) warren of Medieval streets and tapas bars to the golden swirls of the iconic Guggenheim Museum, Frank Gehry’s resplendent architectural triumph.
Art, drinks, food and culture blend seamlessly here, and with silhouetted mountains looking dramatic against the city’s twinkling evening lights, those fans are in for a treat every night.
Here’s a closer look at this perfect match.
What to do
The majestic Guggenheim Museum is the only place to begin, and it’s almost as spectacular on the inside as it is outside, with a grand airy entrance promising work by the likes of Anish Kapoor and Andy Warhol. Head across the colourful Puente de la Salve bridge for some of the finest views of the shimmering museum, especially at sunset.
Fanning out around the 14th-century Gothic Catedral de Santiago and the 19th-century Plaza Nueva, Casco Viejo is a hub of independent stores, entertaining street performers, busy bars, flower stalls, boutique hotels and gregarious cafes.
The old town is great fun but don’t forget to stroll a little further down the river to drop by the Mercado de la Ribera. Built in 1929, it’s Europe’s largest covered market and is packed with stalls selling local produce, from Basque cheese to cured meats.
And for something a little off the beaten path, jump on the metro down to the riverside Vizcaya Bridge near the vast port of Getxo. Completed in 1893, the enormous transporter bridge soars to 45 metres high and, if you’re brave enough, there’s a hair-raising walk across the pasarela (catwalk) via the elevators on either side.
Where to eat
While Bilbao’s fine dining restaurants are no strangers to visits from the Michelin men, this region of Spain is all about bar snacks. And in Bilbao, they go by the name of pintxos. Typically an appetiser in the form of a small slice of bread stabbed by a toothpick, they’re topped by all sorts of products and can often be ordered in plates of six. These could be rich cheese-filled croquetas, jamón ibérico, tuna paste, stuffed anchovies or chunks of chorizo, for example.
So don’t overthink it — head over to Plaza Nueva, pull up a chair at one of its many bars, order in a cold beer and pick your pintxos poison. El Globo, Sorgínzulo and Bar Charly are some of my favourites, though good gastronomic times can be found almost anywhere on the square.
Where to drink
Fans of United and Tottenham need not worry about pre and post-match drinks, as Bilbao has a smorgasbord of options.
Needless to say, the old town — and especially Plaza Nueva — is a hotspot of traditional bars, but other areas like Abando are full of cracking spots too. Bar Basque is an ornate Art Nouveau cocktail bar, while at the other end of the spectrum, the guitar-lined Azkena is all about beer and live rock ‘n’ roll.
Over in the hip Indautxu neighbourhood, the Penguin Bar is where craft beer heads will find Bilbao's best IPAs, sours and stouts. And when it comes to match day, there’s only one place to head — the Sir Winston Churchill Pub, which sits just a stone’s throw from Athletic Bilbao’s San Mamés Stadium.
Where to stay
Unsurprisingly, art is infused into much of Bilbao’s vibrant hotel scene, and many come with buzzing rooftop bars (something of a surprise considering Northern Spain’s notoriously unpredictable weather).
For those with deeper wallets, The Artist is a luxurious design-led spot with artworks in all of its 145 rooms and fantastic views of the Guggenheim Museum. Over in Casco Viejo, the quirky Caravan Cinema is a great budget option and its three apartments and five rooms are all named after movie directors and are endearingly dotted with printed posters of classic films. Foodies should book into the boutique Hotel Takyo Bilbao, with its attached Michelin-star restaurant lead by noted Basque chef Martín Berasategui.
