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Chicago Tribune
Chicago Tribune
Lifestyle
Nick Kindelsperger

An early taste of HaiSous, the Vietnamese spot headed to Pilsen

April 28--Night market Sauced took over Thalia Hall in Pilsen Wednesday evening, bringing with it an eclectic group of clothing and food vendors. While interesting in its own right, we visited with a singular mission: Included in the food lineup was HaiSous, the latest restaurant concept by Thai Dang.

The project is Dang's first since an unceremonious exit last June from Embeya, which he helped start in 2012. Recently, he announced HaiSous will be at 1800 S. Carpenter St., also in Pilsen. As for what to expect, Dang says the new restaurant will be a "casually chic" take on Vietnamese food.

Two items were available to taste at the market -- steamed clams and a Vietnamese fruit cocktail, and both fit the stated goal.

The steamed clams were served with lemon grass and a scallion confit, and topped with peanuts, fried garlic, cilantro and culantro leaves. (The latter are long and skinny, with a more pungent herbal smell than cilantro.) Even though cooks were serving a crowd, each clam was nicely cooked, very tender and laced with the fragrance of all the herbs.

The fresh and inviting fruit cocktail included coconut, jackfruit, longan (a small tropical fruit) and caramelized pineapple.

Dang hopes to open HaiSous in the fall.

HaiSous, 1800 S. Carpenter St., www.haisous.com

nkindelsperger@tribpub.com

Twitter @nickdk

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