I’m up to my neck in salty water and my skin is being tickled by seaweed, but I’m not panicking. Instead, my mind turns to mush and my thoughts drift up, up, up and away. Poof! Total serenity.
While us Londoners might head to the Fox and Hounds for a pint after work on a Friday (and Thursday?), the good people of Gothenburg sweat, soak and steam their worries into submission at one of the city’s many saunas (bastu). They also know how to harness the wonderful healing powers of seaweed bathing. The real feather in the cap of Sweden’s charming second city? How affordable it is to feel this good.
Often nicknamed “Little London”, thanks to its architectural diversity, dynamic food scene and cool, gritty vibe, the riverside city is home to about 40 breweries, six Michelin star restaurants and tonnes of top-notch coffee shops, but its wellness offerings are less known to those outside of Sweden. It helps that it has a relatively cheap and easily navigable public transport system (day tickets cost about £9) so you can move between the city’s sleek saunas and spas to its tranquil archipelago of more than 20 islands (a city travel pass includes ferry trips; the islands are all car-free).
I stayed at Upper House (from £135 per night), a towering glass beauty with sweeping views of Gothenburg. It’s five-star luxury that won’t break the bank with, crucially, access to the spa. Do not miss a dip in the rooftop hot tub where its glass floor offers unmatched views of the city below — as well as a little bit of vertigo.
After a night there I hopped on the tram to Hagabadet Haga, a grand bathhouse built in 1876, home to an emporium of spa treatments (a two hour pass costs about £55). It’s also worth checking out the outdoor public pools and unusually-shaped sauna in Jubileumsparken. The jagged structure was built from recycled corrugated iron sheets.
One of the best things about Gothenburg is how quickly you can move between the city and the coastal islands. It’s 21 minutes by ferry to Styrsö Skäret, an island of rugged cliffs, striking coastlines and oak forests (you might want to stop at Paradiset Saltholmen, a wooden-walled café surrounded by trees, for a coffee and cinnamon bun on your way).
Styrsö Skäret has several cycling paths and hiking trails, but a particular highlight is the walk to Stora Rös, the island’s highest point, where you can drink in the span of the entire archipelago. Kusthotellet Styrsö (from £117 per night), a three-star hotel is a new addition to the island (it opened its doors in September) — and an optimum location for an affordable, rejuvenating escape. Rooms come with forest or sea view options and include a buffet breakfast and access to a 24-hour health club: a heated outdoor pool, a minimalist sauna overlooking the water. The food at the restaurant is delicious too, with freshly caught fish and an extensive wine list.
To switch off entirely, take the ferry to Vrångö, the southernmost inhabited island in the archipelago. With less than 400 inhabitants, Vrångö is renowned for its untouched scenery, isolated beaches and crystal-clear swimming spots. Kajkanten Vrångö is a particularly special location for a soothing escape. Rent your own boathouse (sleeps two), while two-floor cabins sleep up to seven people. The cosy apartments contain well-stocked kitchenettes and patios for golden-hour barbecues and peaceful morning coffees. Because this is Sweden, you’ll have access to a floating sauna and hot tub for late-night plunges or early-morning steam sessions (you can also order a fresh seafood platter to enjoy on the raft afterwards).
Vrångö feels like a different universe to the city centre, but it’s not at all far away. It may also be worth stopping off at Popsicle (a nine-minute ferry away), a former fire station turned retro café and restaurant specialising in local seafood such as the beloved crayfish (Swedes have an annual crayfish party, “kräftskiva”, where locals wear red hats and enjoy banquets with snaps). A warm rhubarb crumble with custard and Popsicle’s award-winning seaweed ice cream — enjoyed in the back garden — is the perfect way to finish off a soul-soothing Swedish wellness weekend.
