"A zoological assault on the senses – that's the best way I can describe South Africa," says TV presenter and conservation expert Chris Packham. He recently returned from a luxury safari break, discovering wild animals, birds and plantlife in the company of skilled bush guides and trackers. "If you dream of a holiday destination where you encounter wildlife ranging from plants to penguins, whales, leopards, lions, tigers, rhinos and elephants, South Africa is the place for you."
During his week-long trip around the beautiful Kruger national park, Chris's first safari took him in search of South Africa's Big Five – elephant, rhino, leopard, lion and buffalo – in an open-vehicle tour from the luxurious Sabi Sabi private game reserve. The Big Five abound here, in one of the world's largest, most richly populated wildlife parks. Chris says: "We were lucky enough to spot all of them. There were many rhino sightings and we even met a leopard that sat calmly in front of our truck." It is unforgettable experiences such as these that make South Africa a magical place to visit, he says.
"We also had an extraordinary elephant encounter, with some females and their young walking a couple of metres from our vehicle," Chris adds, emphasising that a safari is an excellent way to capture images of South Africa's unique wildlife at close range. "The animals won't run away because they know we won't get out of the trucks, so they are not threatened."
One of the features of Kruger national park that most impressed Chris is the removal of its boundaries by the game reserves, in order to extend the area where animals can roam naturally. "The fence has even been taken down between South Africa and Mozambique, so that animals come and go from the reserve on either side of the national border," he says.
The knowledgeable safari guides working at South Africa's game reserves make a point of finding out what each holidaymaker is most interested in seeing. For Chris, discovering South Africa's wildlife is as much about the small fauna and the salvation of ecosystems as it is about spotting the Big Five. "On this occasion I wanted to spend more time looking for the little stuff, and that was where the walking safaris came into their own. I was so excited when we set out at dawn to Klaserie private game reserve, because we had two brilliant naturalists who walked with us." These guides gave Chris and his fellow holidaymakers some fascinating insights, such as how to track animals by looking at footprints, how to identify, age and sex animals, and how to spot places where elephants have been feeding.
"We saw insects, lizards and snake trails," says Chris, "and we were even able to unravel a little story in which a cheetah had caught a gazelle, eaten it, scooted off and been followed by lions. All of that emerged from reading signs left in the sand."
Kruger national park is incredibly dense with birdlife, about which Chris is famously passionate. "It was a treat when we saw some hornbills foraging alongside pygmy mongooses," he says. "The hornbills will go to a mongoose den and wait for them to get up, because when mongooses come out to forage they disturb lots of insects, which the hornbills then snatch to eat." These are the things you only see exploring on foot, he adds.
"For me, the best part of an adventure such as this is meeting such knowledgeable people – for instance, the guide who pointed out that porcupine poo looks like a string of sausages. That might not interest many people, but porcupines are nocturnal and shy, so you often establish their presence by discarded quills or this strange-looking poo. It just goes to show what you can learn about a creature without even seeing it."
As rich and varied as the animal life is in South Africa, its safari guides take pride in broadening visitors' knowledge in every way possible. Botany, for example, is something that can get neglected on wildlife safaris, says Chris, yet on his trip he found it to be another source of captivation. "The guides told us about the various cultural uses of South Africa's plants, as well as the part they play in the ecosystem. It was really fascinating: we came across an extraordinary tree that's so toxic, if you burn its wood the fumes will poison you."
Night safaris beneath South Africa's clear and starry skies can offer visitors an additional thrill. The intensified sights and sounds of the bush after dark are different from those experienced in daylight, when some of the most intriguing animals are asleep and stay hidden. "We got super views of bush babies, which are mainly nocturnal, scampering around in the bushes," says Chris . "They are very cute, with great big eyes glowing in the dark, so that was really entertaining."
With each day's safari tailored to his needs, Chris says: "The whole week was a brief encounter with luxury for me." He and his partner stayed at the Africa on Foot camp in a beautiful, colonial-style lodge with a hot tub on the balcony– which they found to be the perfect spot for some romantic, relaxing stargazing after a day's safari.
Not that comfort isn't built into the guided treks. "We could start out in the morning on foot, walk for a couple of hours and then get driven back to our lodge, if we wanted," Chris explains. "One afternoon, when we had been walking for a while and were starting to feel peckish, we reached a clearing where another vehicle from the camp was waiting to serve up hot tea and some fine cake."
With its famous winelands and a climate that delivers a cornucopia of natural produce, South Africa also offers world-class gourmet dining that can be sampled at luxury lodges, hotels and restaurants throughout the country.
But if you want to do a South African wildlife holiday on a budget, says Chris, that's perfectly possible – just hire a car. "Good roads and clear signage in South Africa mean there's very little danger of getting lost, as even the wilder parts of the country are easy to navigate. You will get a great wildlife encounter, whatever you do."
The only bad thing Chris can recall about his South African holiday was that it didn't last long enough: "We could have stayed a lifetime," he says.
The fab five
The biggest thrill of a South African wildlife holiday, such as the one Chris Packham enjoyed, is encountering the Big Five – elephants, buffalo, rhino, lions and leopards – on a vehicle safari. It is an incomparable, once-in-a-lifetime experience, the richness and diversity of which you won't find anywhere else in the world.
Wildlife tours are big business in South Africa. Because of that – plus the growth of ecotourism – there are many different tours to choose from, with holiday packages, guided trips and accommodation ranging from basic to very luxurious.
All of South Africa's game reserves are well maintained, with good information points, and the best camps have superbly comfortable lodges, with great facilities and impeccable service – plus expert guides who can tailor vehicle and walking safaris to individual needs.
So, whether it is a majestic elephant parade or rare, exotic birdlife you dream of seeing, make a South African safari holiday your mission.
