I’ve been wondering why I like the simple appeal of unisex clothes so much. Do I go for the muted greys and browns because I went to a convent junior school? I didn’t enjoy being called a heretic (I wasn’t Catholic), but I liked the Sisters of Mercy’s minimalist tunics and veils. Or maybe it’s because I went on to an all-girls school in my teens. If you’d spent the 1980s surrounded by spiral perms, shoulder pads, blue mascara and patent stilettos, you’d want to spend the rest of your life in simple trousers, too.
What about my time in a flatshare with a feminist writer in the 90s? She wasn’t shy about judging my clothes and lifestyle. For some reason I was more annoyed when she called me bourgeois because I owned tea towels than when she said I looked like a prostitute before a night out.
It was a huge relief when the epiphany came: I do not like these clothes because I have issues with my femininity or a sense of shame about my body. I like them because I’m lazy. This is the easiest style in the world.
These are simple clothes. Loose trousers and plain shirts. Parkas and sportswear and sweatshirts. Unisex is not about accessories, colour coordination and fiddle. It’s comfortable and practical.
Designers love it, too. Hedi Slimane has introduced a permanent collection of unisex jackets, jeans and luggage at Saint Laurent. JW Anderson and Alexander Wang have forged their careers on unisex.
The autumn catwalks celebrated it, too. There were trouser suits at Hermès and Stella McCartney, parkas at Balenciaga and Tommy Hilfiger and massive jumpers at Jonathan Saunders and The Row.
The key to this look is to think about proportions. For women this means trailing shirt tails, voluminous trousers and outsized coats or jackets, but nipped and cropped in the right places so the clothes don’t drown you. The high street is awash with super-long shirts, but why not invest in one by Margaret Howell? Howell is a master of this look, and it’s always useful to have a posh white shirt in the cupboard. Voluminous trousers look best with sharp waists or cropped legs. 1205 is a new unisex label by Paula Gerbase, and she’s a genius at adding interesting details to outsized clothes. It’s expensive but worth it if you can afford it. Maybe get your partner to chip in, as they can wear the clothes, too.
The other place to play with proportion is in footwear. Brogues and chunky boots are staple footwear for women now, but to look properly This Season, buy them with platform soles. Robert Clergerie has introduced an excellent “communal” range for men and women, but if they’re out of your price range try Grenson.
Or just buy a big, old cosy parka. Gap has one for under £100 – pretty good value for something that will see you through the autumn rain and winter chill. Wear it with boyfriend jeans and white trainers. I’m sure even the nuns would approve of that.
Follow Alice on Instagram @aliceefisher
