As I’m sure you can imagine, there’s a lot of fevered anticipation in my office about what I cover in this column. Only the other day, Shay Shaitly, a fellow editor on the magazine, asked me about my plans over a power lunch (OK, we were eating Pret at our desks, but what of it?). I reeled off a list of hot trends and then enthused about the re-emergence of brown as a chic colour, a topic I was eager to cover. Shay looks like a sarcastic version of Neneh Cherry at the best of times. At this, she looked thunderous. “Brown is the colour of depression,” she declared. We finished our breadless sandwiches in silence.
This strong reaction put me off writing about brown for a while. Shay is not alone in her antipathy. Retailers say brown sells badly, and no one is ever going to plump for brown as their favourite colour. But I think it’s got a bad rap. It’s more versatile than the black and navy which form the backbone of most people’s wardrobe and it’s warmer and kinder as a tone against pallid winter skin.
Also, not writing about it would do you a disservice. It is chic this season. Deal with it. Christopher Kane and Louis Vuitton both sent it down the catwalk, and even labels such as Dolce & Gabbana, Hermès and Saint Laurent, which are traditionally luxe and glitzy – the antithesis of all things brown – joined in.
This renaissance is partly due to the prevalence of the 1970s and military in fashion this winter: you can’t really do either without brown. Spanish label Chie Mihara always does interesting shoe designs, and this season’s 1970s looks are no exception. Give the label website a look. There are lots of chunky military coats to keep you warm out there, but I like the one by Goat: a well-fitted pea coat with a super-furry collar.
I don’t need to tell you how to buy a brown handbag or boots, right? I mean, I’d personally go for something in a tan shade and I’d pick a boxy-shaped classic bag over a satchel and a square-heeled boot, but you don’t need any more help than that.
To embrace brown, though, look for clothes that you wouldn’t normally buy in this colour. Cos is good at making unusual shapes and hues desirable, and brown is no exception. Their skirt comes in an interesting technical fabric – it feels lovely and is a little bit stretchy, which my stomach always appreciates. I also love the glittery houndstooth socks by Baum und Pferdgarten. The Danish label excels in simple designs jazzed up with interesting patterns, but this sock reaches a whole new level. At first glance they’re sad dad socks turned the dreary universal colour of too many washes, but once you see the glitter they’re a standout item you want to build an outfit round.
All I’m saying is give brown a chance. You don’t need to wear it on your wedding day, but just give credit where’s it due. I doubt I’ll ever get Shay to change her mind, but I hope I’ve convinced you.
