In Crete, swimming, eating, walking — and extreme beauty — are the only distractions for Aldo Kane. Here’s his guide to the stunning south coast village of Loutro.
What is your favourite destination and why?
I am lucky enough to travel a lot with work, so when I travel with my family, we look for somewhere very chilled. We go to a little place in Crete, called Loutro. It’s the best for reconnecting with family after I’ve been on expeditions. You fly into Chania and get a bus for two hours south, through deep valleys and over mountains, eventually arriving at the port of Hora Sfakion. From there you take a 40-minute ferry to Loutro.
It’s a tiny white and blue Cretan settlement sandwiched between the mountains and the Mediterranean sea. It’s where I come to relax — seven days is never enough, 10 is just perfect. There are no roads here — once the ferry drops you off, the only way you can get about is on foot, or by boat.
See also: The best Greek island hotels
Who was your last visit with?
I was last there with my wife Anna and son Atlas, days after summiting Everest and Lhotse. I had been separated from them for six weeks. Anna was introduced to Loutro by her mum and dad. It’s the sort of place that people want to return to throughout their lives.
Where do you like to stay there?
Hotel Porto Loutro — a bright white and blue hotel on the waterfront. All the hotels open right onto the pebble beach. We often choose the downstairs stone room as it’s seconds from the beach and there’s no stairs, which is ideal when travelling with toddlers. The hotel has a very friendly owner, and my wife has known her for many years, since she was a teenager, so arriving here feels like coming home.
See also: The best hotels in Crete for all budgets
Your favourite meal there?
Where to go for lunch or dinner in Loutro is a big decision — turn left out of the hotel or turn right, both have exceptional restaurants. The Blue House, on the right, does a fantastic spread of vine leaves, pastitsio and a glass of house wine which is my favourite for lunch.
What are your top three restaurants?
The Blue House is a staple for lunch for us. There is always a fresh selection of amazing food from fish to pasta. The wonderful owner George and his family make you feel like you’re eating in your own house. Mermaid Island Taverna is a little shack at Sweetwater Beach (Glyka Nera). It’s about an hour’s walk east along the rugged coastline, or you can get a small boat. You can spend the day on the beach swimming and eat all three meals in the restaurant. The food is simple but delicious.
Then there’s Georgoshouse, west out of Loutro along the coastline. Here you can relax in the evening and listen to the waves crashing on the beach as you have a sundowner.
What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?
Have breakfast at Hotel Porto Loutro — granola with thick Greek yoghurt followed by eggs on toast. Climb the hill behind Loutro — it’s not difficult but it is steep. The view is spectacular, especially first thing in the morning as the sun comes up. Then I would free dive or swim in the bay of Loutro. When I’m staying here, I usually try to swim a mile every day. When you are in Crete, some of the best things you can do are just walk and be in nature.
What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?
Walking down the Aradena Gorge, it’s truly spectacular. You start by getting a ferry then a taxi that takes you to the top of the gorge; from here you follow a precipitous path, finishing at Marmara beach. It takes around two hours if you have decent fitness but watch out for the goats! The last time I went through it, the animals kicked some rocks which created a bit of a hazard.
Getting out of the scorching gorge and finishing at Marmara beach is a highlight. You can have a swim in the sea and a cold beer before walking or getting a boat back to Loutro.
Once the ferry drops you off in Loutro, the only way you can get about is on foot — or by boat
Is there a hidden gem you are willing to share?
Having sundowners up on the cliffs looking down over the village. There’s no bar here and it requires a bit of preparation. I like to drink a Scotch up there, a Wildmoor 23. I am usually up there with Anna watching the world go by down below. From here you can see all the way along the coast in both directions.
Where do you like to let your hair down?
It’s a very chilled vibe in Loutro, so I like drinking a beer on the beach and hanging with the family.
Who do you call to have a good time there?
Alison, the big boss from the Hotel Porto Loutro who is always happy to host us. She has a big heart and kindly introduced Atlas to the Cretan way when he was only a few months old. She looked after Anna and Atlas when I was away working.
Favourite shops?
Sofia’s Mini Market is the shop that sells everything from water and snacks to fridge magnets. Pick up some local Greek wine.
The one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?
A goat bell, as it reminds me of the only sound you can hear in the mountains.
Your packing essential?
You don’t need very much! A pair of swimmers, my Bremont watch, and a hat. If I am walking or climbing then I usually wear a pair of La Sportiva approach shoes.
Your dress code for the destination?
Shorts! I spent the majority of time wearing shorts and put a shirt on for eating.
Have you ever had an emergency incident there?
We once came to the rescue of a man who had fallen and gashed his head open. He was out on the street and tripped over. Luckily, I carry a medical kit and patched him up as there isn’t really a hospital nearby.
Do you have a top wellness tip for the area?
There’s no need to go to a gym or spa, I spend almost every waking hour outside: swimming, climbing, diving or walking. It’s not just good for your body, it’s great for your mind and soul.
Do you exercise when travelling?
I always exercise when I travel. There’s a small pull-up bar in the chapel that I use.
Song that reminds you of the place?
The Corries, Will Ye Go Lassie Go because in the summer, the mountains there are covered in wild mountain thyme and the song has a lyric about it. There is always that smell on the wind.
The Wild Ones with Aldo Kane is now available to stream on Apple TV+
