Well it’s not Whitstable, is it? It’s not even Margate. And lovely Broadstairs, though practically connected, is a 20-minute walk away, around the coast. And yet ... people are apparently flocking to Ramsgate.
The hotel, says co-owner Emma Irvine, has been fully booked every weekend since January – and it only opened in December. It has 14 rooms, too – not easy to fill. So what’s up?
Firstly, the Albion is a gorgeous creation. With wow-factor antiques, adeptly sourced by Fontaine Decorative, and fashionably dark walls, the heritage interior design is spot on for this large seafront Regency townhouse, built in 1791.
As soon as I step inside, I love it. Cornicing, high ceilings, old shutters, a grand staircase ... the place smarts with original features, and the new bits – lovely globe pendant lights, posh beds – are cleverly chosen. The basement has still to be developed: private dining in the Georgian kitchen, a wine cellar with tasting classes, a wheelchair-accessible bedroom and a seaweed spa are to come.
The position is great, on the East Cliff, overlooking the beach and Royal Harbour. (Unfortunately, there’s a busy road out front, and our sea-facing room suffers from traffic noise all night.)
It was the wealth of Georgian and Victorian houses that drew Emma, a former architect, from Dublin to Ramsgate. She and husband Ben had no hotel experience at all, but had dabbled in seaside self-catering pads with pals/business partners Gay and John Haines. The project has cost £1.5m, but only £345,000 of that went on buying the building (in 2013). The county council also injected £350,000 from a regeneration fund.
“We did this project because this is what we think Ramsgate’s like,” says Emma. “It’s a beautiful town with maritime history, so here’s a heritage offering with a beach on the doorstep.”
Fact is, most of Ramsgate is pretty rundown – the high street uninspiring, the bars a bit brash, and there’s the UKip factor. But there are those initial prickles of south-east coast cool. Creative incomers are doing “passion projects”, says Emma: cute shops, the music-focused Queen Charlotte pub, and the “world-class” Updown Gallery.
A dearth of restaurants nearby led Emma and Ben to include one, persuaded largely by Alex Polizzi – they were filmed for an episode of her Hotel Inspector TV show (aired on 23 April).
Even At 7pm, it’s busy with locals. The menu’s simply written style was probably intended in that fashionable “haddock, alliums, broth” way hip restaurants favour, but sounds like basic pub fare. Misleadingly so: it’s actually excellent. The whitebait is refreshingly unbattered; wild wood pigeon with coriander pesto so tender and tasty even our 19-month-old loves it. Lime- and jerk-spiced sea bass, with apple potato cake and samphire, are a pleasure, though lack jerk kick.
The couple have decided not to serve any bread with dinner, because they’re “a bit funny about wheat”, and because diners tend to fill up and ruin their meal. People may think this is a crazy move, but ... I get it! It means I actually look forward to my apple tart.
With a toddler in tow, we are on lock-down by 9pm, skipping cocktails in the elegant and popular Town Bar, and lamenting the lack of a mini-bar. Still, our “sea view cosy” room (the cheapest), with marble bathroom, is an attractive space to relax in. Quibbles? Fresh coffee and milk rather than packets would be nice, and the empty picture hook in our room is the sort of sloppiness that riled Polizzi.
Service, too, needs a little polish. We overhear staff conversations we shouldn’t (about seating problems etc) and someone tries to take our breakfast order (a pancake stack with fruit and yoghurt) before we’ve been handed the menus. But all this place needs is a bit more time to smooth rough edges. The same could be said of Ramsgate, although, as Emma notes: “People say Ramsgate will eventually be like Brighton. But it will never be like Brighton. You have to come here because you like how it is now.”
• Accommodation was provided by Albion House (01843 606630, albionhouseramsgate.co.uk), doubles from £145 B&B but, during May, from £100 Mon-Thurs on a room-only basis
Ask a local
Kiel Shaw and Stuart Atkinson of Fontaine Decorative interior design
• Dance
Run by music lovers for music lovers, Ramsgate Music Hall is a small venue and bar that hosts both big and up-and-coming names (Neneh Cherry and Sleaford Mods have both played recently) and there are club nights.
• Drink
The Ravensgate Arms is a great little boozer serving real ales and bitters from its own brewery in south-east London. It also has a great wine and whisky selection.
• Eat
The Royal Harbour Brasserie is a busy bistro-style restaurant with stunning views of the sea and Georgian Ramsgate. There’s an express £10 daily menu and daily fish specials fresh from the harbour, plus a proper Sunday lunch.
