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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle
BRUCE SCOTT

Afternoon delight

There's something festive about afternoon tea to begin with--just having half the day free is cause enough for celebration--but this month you can add a special yuletide touch to the proceedings at the holiday-themed Festive Afternoon Tea at the Waldorf Astoria Bangkok's Peacock Alley lounge. From now until December 31st, enjoy a visually stunning selection of specially prepared sweet and savoury nibbles, coupled with a list of exquisite teas from Mariage Frères, all for Bt 2,100++ for two persons.

Elegant and inviting, the beautifully designed Peacock Alley lounge is located on the Upper Lobby level and takes its name from the 91 metre marble corridor built in 1897 to link the newly merged Waldorf and Astoria hotels in New York City. The spirit of the Big Apple is further evoked by the room's Art Deco theme, evident in the lamps, the carpet, the wall sconces, and the large brass clock behind the white marble bar.

During the day the floor-to-ceiling glass windows on three sides of the high-ceilinged room let in plenty of light, offering views up and down the length of Ratchadamri Road and across the green expanse of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club. Meanwhile, the plush elongated couches and comfy padded chairs let out a siren's song that says, "Sit down, get cosy, and be prepared not to move for the next two hours."

The first page of the Festive Afternoon Tea menu lists the fixed selection of tantalizing bite-sized goodies to come, both sweet and savoury, while the other three pages are devoted to the diverse selection of premium teas available. The default tea selection to go with the festive set is the Mariage Frères' special recipe Noël Tea, an aromatic spiced blend with notes of cinnamon, almond, orange, clove, and vanilla that will have you dreaming about mulled wine, fireplaces, and wool sweaters in no time.

There are 16 other teas available, categorised accordingly as black, blue, white, green, or herbal. At one end of the spectrum the formidable Pu-Erh black tea, famed for its medicinal properties, delivers a rich earthy taste, while the buoyant floral notes of the Madame Butterfly white tea blend are more delicate (but equally enjoyable).

When the savoury treats, baked goods, and desserts arrive, the multi-coloured array resembles a miniature Christmas pageant. The six pairs of savouries are each tiny works of sculptural finesse and are almost as colourful as the tray of sweets. Highlights include the painstakingly assembled foie gras terrine and cranberry gel on a sliver of brioche, the dusted cherry tomato on a bed of tapioca honey caviar, and the excellent smoked trout gravlax with dill and cream cheese, sitting atop a miniature bagel and garnished with black caviar.

The savoury selection also gives a nod to the hotel's historic past, with a riff on a Waldorf salad that incorporates finely diced turkey, all served in a hollowed black charcoal bun and garnished with edible gold flecks. Not to be left out, Thailand is acknowledged in the Thai Tung Thong, a delicious crispy fried vegetable pocket made to resemble a "golden bag". 

As befitting a proper afternoon tea, fresh scones--served in a cylindrical tin and still warm from the oven--are presented with clotted cream, mixed berry jam, and an airy orange curd. Two of the scones are plain, while the other two are given a tropical twist with different flavourings that vary from day to day (it was passion fruit on the afternoon we visited). The set menu also includes four light and fluffy Madeleine sponge cakes, seasoned with cinnamon and ginger, but it's hard not to be ultimately distracted by the half dozen pairs of vibrantly coloured Christmas desserts that still await.

A surprise visit to the table by the hotel's Executive Pastry Chef Rémy Janicot--a native of Alsace who now calls Bangkok home--provides some insight into the inspiration behind the sugary confections. He proudly points out that the dark chocolate used is actually from Thailand.

The Thai chocolate is best showcased in the mini Yule log… and it is divine! Bittersweet without any of the sour notes that turn some people away from dark chocolate, it's the creamy crowning jewel on a tray of sinfully sensational sweets. And while the accompanying desserts may not have the same elaborate backstory, they are all exquisite in their presentation. The gingerbread macaron with the restaurant's peacock logo icon emblazoned on top is a delightful taste surprise, while the yummy Christmas pudding tartlet is adorned with a thin slice of chocolate in the shape of a Christmas tree wedged into the dollop of whipped cream on top.

It's hard to pick a favourite, but the Christmas-themed red velvet cake, shaped like a small tower, and the passion fruit Christmas ball, made to resemble a Christmas tree bauble, both stood out in terms of texture and flavour. However, the bright red caramel filled raspberry tree, mounted on a crispy cracker and garnished with small green coloured chips of white chocolate, best transports one to the magical land of yuletide cheer. Its conical shape, Christmas colours, and gooey rich filling all conspire to say "Happy holidays, and don't worry about dieting till January."

As the winter sun makes its way across the sky, gossamer white sun curtains lower themselves little by little down the tall windows, keeping the room from roasting. If you imagine it to be a light dusting of snow, albeit moving in the wrong direction, you can keep the Christmas illusion alive as you sink a few more millimetres into the plump cushions and happily watch the afternoon disappear.

Peacock Alley

Upper Lobby, Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, 151 Ratchadamri Rd.,
Lumpini, Pathumwan
Open daily: 9am – 10pm
Festive Afternoon Tea served daily from 1pm – 5pm
till December 31st, 2018
Price: Bt 2,100++ (for 2 persons)
Tel. 02 846 8888
Email:
[email protected]
www.waldorfbangkok.waldorfastoria.com.

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