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Chicago Tribune
Chicago Tribune
Lifestyle
Michael Austin

Affordable Bordeaux for the rest of us (for the most of us?)

Years ago, during an evening of urban carousing with two friends, the three of us found ourselves in the lobby of a swanky hotel. It was almost as if we had just landed there or had been somehow teleported. We were profoundly underdressed (it's possible that I was wearing cut-off shorts), but the energy of the city and the special effects of our chosen elixirs convinced us that we belonged in that place.

So we strolled through the lobby and into the gallery of boutiques, marveling at the Other Half. And then, again as if it had fallen out of the sky and landed directly in front of us, it appeared _ a chocolate shop. After a quick survey from a safe distance, I recoiled and averted my eyes. I got the impression that just peeking into that little nook might set me back $40.

My friends sauntered into the shop while I waited in the hallway, and when they emerged with little bags of handmade chocolates, they had mercy on me. One of them offered me a piece _ and a message from the clerk: "Your friend needs to come in here and get educated." The point she was conveying, via my cohorts, was: Not all candy in the shop costs as much as a watch.

This brings us to Bordeaux, arguably the most storied and prestigious wine region in the world, with prices to match. But not every bottle costs as much as a watch. If all of Bordeaux were a single piece of chocolate, that little swirl on top would represent the classified wines _ the famous premier cru, or "first growth" wines (Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, et al.), along with the second- through fifth-growths. The rest of the Bordeaux wines _ white, red and sweet, in the same general styles as the trophy wines _ descend in price, allowing all of us, at some price point, to get a taste, and perhaps an education too.

Bordeaux sits in the southwestern corner of France and is the country's largest AOC (appellation d'origine controlee) region with about 275,000 acres of vines. That's more than a quarter of all AOC vineyard area in France. The region enjoys a moderate maritime climate because of its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde estuary, which is fed by the snaking Garonne and Dordogne rivers. These rivers create the famous Left Bank and Right Bank, plus the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation between them.

There are 64 other appellations in Bordeaux, most famously Margaux, Medoc, Pauillac, Pomerol, Saint-Emilion and Sauternes. But again, the sublime, world-famous collector wines from these places and others in Bordeaux are not the whole story.

Red wine is tops in Bordeaux, accounting for more than 85 percent of the area's wine production, and about two-thirds of all red grapes grown there are merlot. After that, comes cabernet sauvignon, followed distantly by cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot.

Semillon and sauvignon blanc are the big white grapes (each accounting for roughly 45 percent of white grapes grown), and they, along with varying amounts of muscadelle and some other grape varieties, contribute to the region's sought-after dry white blends. But semillon is the key grape variety in the sweet wines of Bordeaux. To make them, grapes are left on the vine longer, developing Botrytis cinerea, the fungus known as "noble rot." This condition produces viscous, sweet wines, with enough acidity to make them a pleasure to drink either as part of a dessert pairing or simply as dessert itself. They're also a fine and classic accompaniment to foie gras toward the beginning of a meal.

The reds of Bordeaux can range anywhere from fruity and lighter in style to much more substantial, structured and long-aging, or even life-changing. If you've been on your wine journey for a while, you're well-acquainted with the legendary wines of Bordeaux. If you are newer to the journey, or have been intimidated by even the mention of this famous region, this is your way in, without having to make a huge investment.

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