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The Canberra Times
The Canberra Times
National
Karen Hardy

Acclaimed team from Pilot open new Canberra eatery, Such and Such

Mal Hanslow, Dash Rumble and Ross McQuinn are expanding to a city venue. Picture by Keegan Carroll

The team behind Ainslie's award-winning restaurant Pilot are planning a new venue in the city, with Such and Such expected to open its doors in early December.

And while Pilot, which was recently named Gourmet Traveller's best ACT restaurant, focuses on fine dining, Such and Such will definitely be a more casual venue, located in the Constitution Place development in the City.

Ross McQuinn, Dash Rumble and executive chef Mal Hanslow opened Pilot in September 2018 and quickly made their mark, gaining a Good Food Guide Awards hat the year after.

They're all excited about trying something new in the city venue which will have a locally-leaning drinks menu alongside an a la carte menu designed to share.

"We love Pilot, we love what it's been and will continue to be, but we have things we really want to express beyond the confines of Pilot," McQuinn said.

"We want And Such and Such to be a much more approachable venue, somewhere where people feel comfortable just dropping in for a snack and a glass of wine, something slightly more relaxed."

There will be bar seating, a dining room with 40 seats and plenty of outdoor tables with another 40-odd seats spilling out in the covered courtyard area of Constitution Place.

Mal Hanslow is keen to adapt menus to reflect the more relaxed approach.

"I'm really looking forward to being able to do some more share plates, still restaurant-y, but home style, a similar calibre to here, but more relaxed, a little less finesse," he said.

They've gathered some of Canberra's best young hospitality staff. Nick Petersen (Porteno and Onzieme) is head chef and Caitlin Baker (Aubergine and founder of Venus Vinifera) will lead front of house.

Beverage director James Dickson-Hoyle (Pilot, Osteria Ilaria, Saint Crispin) has created a fun wine list, with a focus on premium and interesting small Aussie wines, a long list of top-flight international bottles and some local cult favourites. Cocktails will lean towards the classics, and there will be a strong non-alcoholic range of beverages as well.

There'll also be a focus on art and design. Interiors are "controlled maximalism", says Rumble.

"That's what our designer Mark Brook from mymymy calls it. He's using lighting, textures and volume to create some drama," he said.

"There'll be plenty of art and sculpture from respected Canberra folk such as sculptor Scott Chaseling, ceramicist Chris Harford, furniture designer Tom Skeehan and local emerging artists curated by Grace Blake."

McQuinn acknowledges it might be a challenge, given industry-wide problems with staffing and planning the opening for the busiest time of the year.

"It's definitely going to be a big adjustment for us, it's our first time with multiple venues, but we're lucky to have an incredibly talented and strong team around us, which has given us the confidence to do it at this time," he said.

Pilot's Yupin "Alice" Baek is on the NSW shortlist for the Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year Award. Picture by Keegan Carroll

Young chef of the year

In other good news for Pilot, junior sous chef Yupin "Alice" Baek has been shortlisted in the Good Food Guide NSW Young Chef of the Year Awards.

The prestigious awards are part of Nine's Good Food Awards which are announced in December. Her executive chef Mal Hanslow was nominated for the same award in 2018.

Baek, 29, has been working at Pilot for two years. She began her career as a kitchen hand five years ago and never really wanted to cook but after a month or so just started helping with prep.

Her egg drop soup, featured on the restaurant's winter menu, was inspired by her grandmother.

"When I cook something for our customers, or for the staff, and they try it and think it's delicious, my heart bounces. I'm so happy," she told Good Food.

"In Korea, being a chef isn't considered a good job, especially for a woman. My dad is always worried about me. But I want to show him that I can do it, I can work hard for our family."

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